What is the static timing on a Type 65?  - I assume less advanced than the 1 3/4" / 20° BTDC quoted for the 4.8:1 compression engines, but I have been unable to find the data for my engine, which is the original 65.

The '36 Ruby (C/R of 6:1) is quoted as 3/4" BTDC at the flywheel, which I reckon to be 8 degrees, so I am inclined to start there in the absence of better info.

I am new to Sevens and to manual timing on the steering wheel. I imagine my best course may well be trial and error, but I'd quite like to know where I should be starting from!

Whilst ferreting about in my spares I have come across a prop-shaft for a short chassis with a fabric front coupling and an enclosed Hardy Spicer rear u/j which has a circular drive flange with six 1/4" bolts.
I understand that the early Type 65's had a similar type of prop-shaft but this would of course be longer.  Is it possible I have an Ulster prop-shaft?

A good picture in today's Guardian, any more pictures of yesterday's fun which I was unable to attend?

Hi All
I'm a newbie so be gentle with me. My Ulster replica isn't charging it's battery. I'm running a 12V dynamo. Initial thoughts anyone?
Cheers
Rich

Hi all

I collected my "Ulster" body from Rod Yates last week, and I'm pondering the paint finish.

I've turned the body sideways and upside down whilst musing. What have others done re painting, just the outside and engine bay internals?

What about paint to the underside...this could be simply hand painted black having etched it first?

Looking down into the tail, I wonder is others have fully painted or at least fully etch primed the total interior?

Very early days yet as the chassis hasn't even been blasted, then this will need painting and all components worked on.

I took the front axle to be lowered yesterday, then the lowering of the radius arms will tax my brain.

Now, if lowering the radius arms, say by 60mm or so (what is the recommended drop please?) the arms slope downwards thus when bolting up the lowered axle, the castor angle will have changed as the bolt up flanges now point down at a different angle?

My question therefore, should the radius arm ball joint on the cross member be lowered the same amount, thus putting the bolt up positions/flanges in the same relative positions?

regards

Arthur

Those of you who date back to the 1960s and 70s may have known John (Jonah) Jones who passed away a few days ago. 

He joined Austins in 1966, Alf Depper offered him the job in the Austin Design Office. John worked  variously at Gaydon and Longbridge until 1992. Alf Depper and Stanley Edge helped John prepare his RN and he won best in show at Gordon Phillips Staverton Rally in 1969 (we think). The same car was used in 1972 for JOGLE or was it the other way round? With his then wife and two children. He recalled that more usefully another car carried a complete engine on the back seat. 

When Donald Stokes came on the scene, Alf Depper recognised that all Austin history was irrelevant and would be dumped. Alf arranged for John to take care of an early car. John had thus car fir a few years and then BL "borrowed" it for an exhibition and that was the last he saw of it. This car lives in the museum at Gaydon. He retained the logbook.....

After leaving Austin he purchased Shipps Garage in Upton upon Severn.

He was very proud that Alf Depper was his boss.

He continued to own A7s throughout and at current date he owned a 1931 RN in process of restoration and a 1935 APD tourer.

Roly

Can someone suggest suitable clearance for the excellent Slipper pistons sold by Tony.
I am having a block bored next week and would like to know the recommend clearance.
I know the Honda pistons have a very close clearance, something like .ooo4" if memory serves correctly, these being low expansion high silicone pistons.

I don't want excessive clearance, but don't want pickup or seizure either!

I know several on this forum have used these pistons, what are your experiences with them?

Thanks in advance for any and all comments

Worth buying ? Christmas present ?
Not seen any reviews...
J.W

Hi Folks, can anyone out there give me the actual dimensions of the ORIGINAL Battery Box on a 1932 A7 RP. Mine has at sometime been cut out and I would like to replace it.

Hi all

putting the engine back together and whilst putting new cylinder head studs in.....one stud snapped flush with the block (stud between no 2 and 3 cylinder). I was trying to put car back together for Cotswold trial. Would it be a wise move to run the car minus one stud. Or is this considered to risky? 

thanks for nay help 

ollie cox