Went to the revival for the first time on Sunday and had a great day. The racing was superb with drivers of very expensive machines giving no quarter. One or two had damage that won't buff out very easily to say the least.

There was at least one Austin 7 there as I was beside a very nice black special on the way in. I hope the driver did not get too muddy or wet getting home - the car park was beginning to look like Glastonbury when I left. Were there any more A7's there?

I wonder if someone can help me please. I have a 1938 rear axle with rod brakes and want to fit it to a 1937 Ruby chassis that had cable brakes and a full width cross shaft. What do I need to do to achieve this? There seems to be next to no info on the rod brake system in the Woodrow book.

Thanks!

I've been a long time lurker on the forums, having had my Austin 7 for a year or two but never posting. Its a fantastic resource and the new forum is great to use so well done to everyone involved!

I'm about to start re-wiring my Austin 7 Cambridge Special and I'm having a bit of trouble identifying what type of Cut Out I have. 
I've looked all over the Cut Out to try and find any part numbers but havent been able to locate one. 
   

  SmartSelectImage_2017-09-13-15-08-16.png (Size: 1.15 MB / Downloads: 796)
   
The bottom of the cut out only has 2 connections one of which has a connector attached so not original! 
   
One thing I have noticed is an extra switch on the dash which connects D&F on the dynamo together. I have done some research and this was often employed to stop the battery boiling on long runs or was it added on this car because the cut out wasn't working/wired correctly?

Its my first delve into classic car electronics but I have a fairly good electrical background. Can anyone help?

Whilst browsing pictures of Austin 7's this RK popped up.

   

The image took me to THIS website, with the story of the car.
In short this was the first car registered on the Island St Helena in 1928 (Motor vehicles were prohibited on the island prior to this).
The car was imported by entrepreneur Humphrey Soloman, who sold the car to a Mr Withecombe. The car registered with number "1" (Subsequent registrations have simply counted up from there), and the car became known as 'The Number 1'. The website had other pictures of 'number 1' over the years. The above picture is dated 1935.

This one 1962


  theaustin7in1962.jpg (Size: 34.34 KB / Downloads: 360)

And this later one, thought to be some time in the 70s.


  theaustin7later.jpg (Size: 44.47 KB / Downloads: 360)

There are also 2 more photos of Austin Sevens on the island both pictures dated 1961.

   

   

Thought you might be interested in this little gem bought at the Beaulieu autojumble a couple of weeks ago. It is an adjustable Zenith compensating jet for the earlier carburettors.

[attachment=687]

My Ruby needs a new set of tyres, I've currently got a set of Armstrong tyres which are getting near to the minimum thread depth 2 to 3mm. and they've been on for approx 10 years so another good reason to replace tham

So which are the best make of tyres to fit and where do I get the best deal? 

I have found Longstone, Waymaster & Excelsior and all have completely different tread patterns, so for general road use which way should I go?

Dave, in soggy cumbria

Hi
Having got my Ruby running after a while I managed to break a half shaft when manouvering on the drive.
After a few small battles and appropriate words the axle is removed and dismantled.On fitting a new half shaft I found that it tends to "click" slightlywhen rotating in the satellite gears.
I am going back to where I got the halfshaft on Thursday with a view to trying out some others to see if they run more smoothly like the old (worn) shaft.
If other shafts seem the same ,do I fit it and let it run in or should I use engineers blue and file down any high spots on the shaft gear.
I would be grateful for any opinions from anyone of experience of replacing shafts.

This may be old hat to a few of you, but I have recently found that the online DVLA vehicle check has been improved by dropping the need to enter the vehicle make.  This used to be problematic for old vehicles, where some odd things had been put down in the past for the maker such as "Austin Convertible" which would not show up if Austin were searched for.   Now, simply entering the registration is enough.

In addition, the MOT history check only needs a registration and no Chassis Number or VIN is required.

Tips on making a magneto engine as oil tight as possible would be appreciated.
No idea too simple or too stupid. 

Thanks


C

Came across this clip today

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnUjk8Y-yac