I have a 1930 AE fitted with a 1934 engine with a high compression head and a 4 speed gearbox. The existing engine block is number M233185. This block is ok but it had a crack in the usual place , which I managed to repair, and it's very worn in the valve guides. 
I have another block (M236165) which has been leak tested and is fine, but it needs some work. 
Before I go ahead with this can I check anywhere if the M236165 block will fit as a direct replacement.

As a bit of a purist I'd rather replace the existing engine and gearbox with period correct ones but that unfortunately is financially beyond me currently (even if I could find said engine and gearbox)

I hope that all makes sense. I'm grateful to listen to all comments

70 years ago this week my parents took delivery of our Ruby. It's presentable looks proved to be deceptive as the floor had been repaired with old oil drums and some fairly major accident damage was soon discovered. Nevertheless it provided reliable transport one and off for 60 years before I inherited it and brought it to Scotland in 2014.

   

   

Hi All,

I'm about the reinstall the engine and gear box in my Ulster Rep. The engine is without the dynamo, exhaust and other bits. It does have a Riccardo alloy head. The gearbox is a three speed. The head has 14mm plugs. I'm wondering if I can use a hoist and attach the hoist to the two centre plug holes with 14mm ring bolts or if this would compromise the head...break the bolts out of the head. I'm hopeful I can do this with the gear box attached. Any advice is much appreciated.

Erich in Mukilteo

Yet another image from the collection I am working on that has me somewhat stumped. It is not a production model that I immediately recognise but wonder whether there is more than a whiff of the Antipodean about it. Anyone care to make a suggestion?

   

Just for Howard...

This is a recurring style of bumpers that appears in the photos I am currently working on...

   

More cataloguing...

Is it only the RK that has a peak above the screen? EG, is this an RK? I'm pretty sure not... So was a peak fitted to other models or, in this case, an 'extra' (of which the car seems to be sporting many..)


  PH0115001.jpg (Size: 196.65 KB / Downloads: 211)

The engine on my 33 PD was solid mounted, bolted to chassis. As crankcase was damaged I rebuilt with a more modern rubber mounted crankcase. I’ve just put engine back in the car but the two front mountings in chassis seem to a different thread to the new studs and rubbers I bought. Also the large rubber bottom ring rests on hex section of the stud this dosnt seem right?
Any words of wisdom appreciated - TIA

Further to my last post - I have rebuilt my engine with modern internals (crank, rods, slipper pistons & new rings, new std valves) the block has also been rebored. What running in regime is recommended?
TIA.

The engine on my 33 PD was solid mounted, bolted to chassis. As crankcase was damaged I rebuilt with a more modern rubber mounted crankcase. I’ve just put engine back in the car but the two front mountings in chassis seem to a different thread to the new studs and rubbers I bought. Also the large rubber bottom ring rests on hex section of the stud this dosnt seem right?
Any words of wisdom appreciated - TIA

I'm currently working on a fellow members car fitted with an 1¼ SU carburettor.

There are symptoms of fuel starvation (engine under load loses power for a few seconds then picks up again). I know that the zenith 26VA runs on 1½ p.s.i. but I suspect that a  SU electric pump would supply with a higher pressure.

Is this  a common problem when using an SU carb? and if so what was the solution?

Thanks in anticipation of a helpful discussion