Hi all,
I'm wondering if it's possible to restore the 1/4" threads in the crankcase back from the 5/16" threads that it is currently? I'm thinking of fitting an ally sump, and it will be a shame to drill it out to 5/16. 
Or would it be better to change the crankcase?
Ta.

I am in the process of finishing my Gould bodied special (Bodgit) and was wondering if there were some decent 17” wheels for sale out there? At the moment I have a pair of open centre 16” wheels on the rear which are very wobbly and a pair of 15” wheels on the front. Any advice would be greatly appreciated (I am using semi girling brakes and drums (I understand 19” closed centre wheels would not fit unless someone can shed some light on this small yet important dilemma

Many thanks 

Martin

   

The upper leaf on one of my rear springs is broken/long-gone.  I'm thinking it wont make much difference to the handling of the car, and its original and part of its history, so I was thinking I would just stick with that.

Good Move? Bad Move?

Has anyone found it necessary to balance A7 wheels? If so, have you used stick-on weights or the wrap-around-the-spoke type?

Hi folks!

I have a question:

Can I find any document or data sheet that clearly states the permissible total weight of the Sevens? This question is apparently of immense importance to our vehicle registration authorities...! 

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

Best,
Oliver

Hi folks

Which of you will be attending the Spring Autojumble in Beaulieu this year? 

I'll be there...

Best,
Oliver

I'm in the process of restoring my 1929 fabric bodied RK saloon.  

The Car is completely in pieces. 

I'm trying to get the rear axle back onto the rear springs to ultimately get the chassis back on its wheels.  

I'm having the dickens of a job trying to get the rear spring pins in. 

I tried fitting the springs to the axle out of the chassis. That worked and the spring pins and cotters fitted, but, because of the toe in in the springs I couldnt get them to slide into the chassis.

I tried fitting the springs to the chassis first, I left it all loose with plenty of wiggle room. I have the rear axle roughly in the right place but I just can get it lined up sufficiently to slide in the spring pins.  Can anyone offer some advice as to how to go about doing it?

   

This car is driving me mad.  Every time I think everything is sorted and go for a short run something new occurs.

This time there is a hissing sound from the engine which seems to be coming from the head / block joint area at the side of the engine just below the top water branch (High Compression Head).  When first started there are a few small bubbles along this joint line but I can't be certain if it's actually from the head / block joint or something related to the exhaust manifold joint.    The car doesn't seem to be loosing any cooling water.

After a few minutes it seems to stop visibly bubbling but still makes the hissing sound.

Curiously the noise isn't continuous, as I would have expected from a water leak, but related to the firing of the engine, rather like the hissing of a steam engine when it's running.

Having only managed to drive the car around 30 miles this year I'm very reluctant to strip it without any clear idea what's likely to be the issue.

The only thing I've done since it was last OK is remove and re-fit the spark plugs.  Previously I've only tightened them fairly lightly but having seen a recommendation of 30 ft lbs I did tighten them much more than in the past.

Any suggestions?

John.

Iam looking to mount a SU pump on a 1927-8 chummy with front tank - however space under the bonnet is tight, can anyone give some suggestions on where the best place to mount the pump is?

Hi All

I'm missing a couple between the bottom of the dizzy to the drive cable. I don't recall who made this conversion. Can anyone help?

Erich in Mukilteo