I have read a number of posts explaining how attaching a tie rod from the king pin area back to the radius arm can help to improve braking by reducing the tendency for the front axle to twist. My front axle is a bog standard Mk1 Ruby axle. However, I have not found any clear information on how the rod is attached to the front axle, other than on cars with the later Girling axle or on specials with all manner of modifications. 

Does anyone have any photographs of such an arrangement or can they direct to me further information, please?

Jamie.

Zenith 30VM downdraft carb (similar to that on a Nippy). The Ulster was running really well when it slowed and would not rev, only tick over. Checked that the fuel pump was working and fuel getting through. Removed the float bowl and the three jets, which were all clear. Blew the jets out anyway - and the holes in the bowl. Reassembled - and it revved cleanly. Has anyone had a similar problem or knows what the cause of this sudden-tickover situation might be?

Seen on ebay:


  Super Accessories brochure.jpg (Size: 130.97 KB / Downloads: 109)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/356572364172

A bit of Seven history. (Don't know the seller, usual disclaimers.)

Does anyone know the guys that entered the Mille Miglia in 2012 with an Ulster

I would like to contact them to find out about the event and what it was like .

Thanks Paul

I have had a couple of quotes for blasting and priming my Austin Seven chassis. 

Hi All

I’ve had a couple of open centre 18” wheels for some time and recently acquired a couple more so I thought I’d treat the Special to a set of 18 by 4 tyres (Longstones). Apart from being a **** to put on the tyres look good but just foul the rear body work  .

I’ve read past posts about wheel spacers (Steve Jones and others) and am contemplating making some.  However how are the lugs on the drum secured?  I’ve tried gently trying to tap them out but they refuse to budge.  Are they peened over and need to be drilled out?  Secondly I’m considering using semi Girling drums so what mods are needed for them to fit with Austin’s backplates. Is it simply turning off the lip?

Cheers

Howard

Can anyone help me keep the original look of my 1930 Swallow?  Under the bonnet may not be immaculate but it is surprisingly original.  To keep it that way I need to find some brown plastic covered HT cable. At the very least I  need enough to replace the king lead but can't seem to find it anywhere.  I have the original brown dist. cap but it looks wrong with a black king lead.  The car is still 6 volts.

On another point of originality, I would like to find an original condenser; the type  that fitted in the recess under the distributor.  Even if it doesn't work, I would like to have one fitted in the original location.  

Any helpful suggestions would be welcome.

Thank you.

Hi all, tried asking this on the FB page but no luck, so am trying here.
I’ve just fitted a cheap induction Rev counter and want to assess how accurate it is.
For a 1933 standard 2 brg engine what range of revs you expect at tickover also what revs at 30mph in top (4 speed box and 19” wheels).
Thanks in advance.

Tim

This month we have a splendid photo of an early Dixi cabriolet with coachwork by Weinberger Karosserie of Munich. A large-format original print from the Weinberger records is for sale on the internet, along with a second view of the same car; I have advised the A7CA Archive, but we are both agreed that the price of almost £60 per print is too high. So you will have to be satisfied with low-res screen shots, which can be viewed in the Gallery.

   

Ruby windscreen complete. RP windscreen complete. Ruby rear window glass. Saloon Front springs.
Prop shafts 1933/34 with fabric front coupling. Bonnet support channel nom. 32” overall. Refurbished rear hubs. Also lots of odds and ends that might just be the small part you are looking for - try me. 
07786506600