Sorry to be boring, but on the old site there was a thread which I cannot now find, and someone in Wales said he had trim samples which showed how the interior should look on a tourer AH or (so called) AJ.  I would like to get in contact unless anyone else can help me on the main area - what does the door look like?  Is it like an RP with carpet and pockets, or is it plain?

Ok, not Austin 7 related, but I know there are people here who are well versed in the ways of the SU carburettor and I'm hoping someone may be able to help.

As well as Sevens, I have a 1932 Riley Nine fitted with twin 1" OM SUs running GG needles. OMs do not require and never had a spring fitted in the dashpot to temper the behaviour of the piston. Over the winter, I built a new engine for it, after running in, had it set up on a rolling road and embarked on a 2000 mile tour of Scotland. Apart from a mag crying 'enough' in the damp and me changing it for the spare, I had trouble free trip. I've used the car a bit since I returned home at the end of June. The other evening, I went out in it and, all of a sudden, it has developed a fault whereby the engine wont rev. When changing up through the gears, the engine dies when accelerating in the new gear (with your foot hard on the throttle) and will also show the same symptoms when the throttle is blipped to change down.

I have had the inlet manifold off and replaced the gasket as there was a sign of a leak. No change. I have had the filters out of the carbs and the pump and cleaned them, I have checked the flow of fuel from the pump. I have also fitted new plugs and changed the mag as part of my trouble shooting. All to no avail.

A pal came the other day who used to be a motor mechanic and he did a test whereby he removed the caps from the dash pots, dropped a screwdriver down each one, applied downward pressure with his hand and asked me to blip the throttle. The fault immediately disappeared. So, problem is caused by the pistons rising too quickly, basically letting too much air in, weakening the mixture and the engine dies.

The questions for my learned friends are as follows:

What could have suddenly changed to cause the symptoms? and

What might the solution be? I have fitted a couple of lightweight springs today, that has made a small improvement, but not enough. But the carbs are not designed to have springs anyway, so am I just curing the symptom and masking the fault?

Your thoughts, no matter how random or obscure would be welcomed...

Hugh

In April 2018, I will be standing down from the position of Association Secretary, along with the Editor and Registrar. We have good candidates for the position of Editor and Registrar but have yet to receive any positive interest for position of Secretary. I have been advertising the post through your Club Secretaries and in the Minutes of Association meetings, but it is possible that some person or people here have missed that but have an interest in the position. 

May I remind you that, under the terms of the new Constitution, the appointment will be for a term of 3 years, with the possibility of serving a second 3 year term. ie, you won't be stuck for a job for life, nor can you serve more than 6 years, even if you wish to.

If anyone might be interested and would like an informal chat, please drop me a note including your telephone number and I'll get in touch..

many thanks in advance...

Hugh

I thought  you all might be interested in how I saved an original Eversure oil filler that I bought from Tony B. It had two broken sides of the cone that fits in the crankcase.

Carefully clamped in the mill I removed the other two and machined the bottom flat leaving a witness mark. 0.008" removed.

  I then carefully bored the filler to make the cast hole round, machined up a stepped ring and Loctited it in place 
   
A plate was made to fit inside the crankcase which will be retained by two small countersunk screws.

Finally a new clip to replace the broken plated brass item, made from a stainless steel strip used to fix road signs to the post.
  
This will enable the Eversure filler to be fitted or the original cover, or even a latter style filler a la  Ulster.
  
The only deviation from original is two 3mm holes in the crankcase which are masked by any of the covers. 
 I hasten to say that I am highly delighted with saving a 80+year old accessory.

Hello friends
I dont post much on here, I mainly use TwitFace, but need a little knowledge please.
I have got a sample of Egyptian cotton for my fabric body, but it seems a little thin. How many threads per inch, or Grams/m2  is correct for a fabric body?

Is pre-dyed cloth a good idea? i want the final colour to be black.

I have been reading about irish linen used on early aircraft. This was shrunk with size, boiled flour and water. Has anyone tried this?

As weight isn't such a big issue, can cotton be shrunk with water, then painted with synthetic paints?.....I am a little worried about dope being flammable.

Cheers for any replies
Andrew



P.S. here is the progress so far:
https://www.flickr.com/gp/22719913@N04/E6e611

    Back in March I did the Torbay trial in the Ulsteroid. This event uses some of the hills also used on the MCC Exeter trial, such as Simms and Tipley, along with others of varying severity. I have to say I have no desire to try to get an Austin 7 up Tipley again, some of the holes were horrendous! After a couple of hills the slight click when taking up drive became a nasty clunk and despite being very gentle with things eventually the o/s drive shaft gave up the good fight and all drive was lost after hill 9. Well after a summer of WAY too much work and not enough play, I have finally got the axle off and am in the process of rebuilding it. Having entered class 0 on the Exeter trial (slightly less damaging hills than the main trial, but no Simms) The car also needs a reversing light and map reading light fitting. Father doing the electrics whilst I do the oily bits. the cream crackered shaft can be seen in the foreground.

Light but strong single axle car trailer suit A7 or similar. 10'3" long bed, boarded middle section, spare wheel, jockey wheel plus light board. Only used twice in last 12 months. £950. 

monsdonnet@gmail.com

Worcestershire/Herefordshire border.

This is my first post.  Years ago I rebuilt a special based on a Ruby, I used it as my daily transport for several years untill work abroad and the birth of a son forced it's sale, something that I have regretted ever since. It was without doubt the most entertaining and time consuming car I have ever had the pleasure to own.  My son is now ten and we fancy building a special together.  We are at the planning and parts gathering stage, we can manage most of the bodywork but were wondering if anyone makes cycle wings, preferably in aluminium?  

Thank you, Hamish

I am in the process of recommissioning an RP that has stood for 30+ years.

About a year ago the previous owner filled the rad with water in order to run the engine. Unfortunately he didn't remember that the cylinder head was not screwed down and so ended up with water in the bore/sump. He says he drained the rad and the sump.

When I acquired the car it was a non-starter but it is now running well. It has a new head gasket. The rad level stays constant.

However...

On starting from cold and at fairly high revs there is about 7lbs max indicated oil pressure. On any other 7 I'd expect to see it 'off the scale' on a 10lbs gauge or 20lbs+ on a longer scale gauge.

After a few minutes running, when I pull the dipstick I find the oil is 'frothy', as show in the photo. It returns to a non-frothy state not long after switch off.

Is this caused by a worn oil pump cavitating the oil?

   

What ho chaps

All of the chassis parts are off and ready to be cleaned. Masses of grease and grime etc, though I steam cleaned it all before.

Now, I've used Gunk and Jizer before, but now need some advice. I've got a Sealey parts cleaning cabinet (type with pump and can also use compressed air), not used it before, but what cleaning agents do any of you recommend?

I don't want to use petrol or paraffin really, but will welcome your comments.

Normally I'm used to very clean parts with my own cars, but going old and vintage now, means dirt/filth/grease/grime!

regards

Arthur