There is a gap at rear edge of the bonnet as you will see in the first pic. The second pic shows that the stone guard is off centre where the starting handle goes through. The front of the bonnet is correctly lined up, i.e. it doesn't overlay the edge of the radiator surround, although it could pull back the necessary amount without causing a major issue.

For starters I am inclined to just slacken everything off and wiggle it all about, but suspect that getting one bit right will put another bit out.

All bright ideas gratefully received.

You may notice the nearside headlight is out of alignment. I have adjusted this at the headlight mounting since the pic was taken, although the nearside mudguard does still appear a little higher than its opposite number.

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Have made a start on slicing the early block, but the 24tpi blade In the bandsaw is too fine so after breaking one, after putting too much pressure on it, am now waiting for a much coarser 10/14 to use.

This is how far I've progressed, and quite an eye opener it is:



Geoff - Photos of slices to follow plus video using the new blade when it arrives.

Hi, I'm looking for a new glove box liner for my 1937 Ruby, if anyone has a spare or info where I can get one I'd be grateful. Just removed the wings and running boards ready for a complete paint job by Deepcar Autobodies ltd. Sheffield, and looking for a few finishing bits for when I get it back. Can't wait. 
Many thank 
Burky

With all the hoohah over the electronic unit, I picked up a spare original auto-advance distributor today thinking of getting it ready as a spare. And of course, it's all a bit ropey.

I know Distributor Doctor has lots of stuff, but has anyone found cunning ruses for replacement of bits to the same spec, or other suppliers of the overhaul (rather than service) items?

Online I found  "What I have found is that the springs out of the Distributor fitted to the Series 2 Morris Minor Distributor can be pressed into service quite effectively in an Austin Seven". 

Is this a well known fact, or do others have their own recommendations for such things? 

I have a friend who has the following problem with his Ruby. The dynamo is putting out a charge but the ignition warning light is not going out and furthermore on switching off the ignition the engine continues to run and can only be stopped by putting the car in gear and stalling the engine. Needless to say the car is not and has not been used on the road for a while. It sounds like a faulty switch to me but perhaps someone has experienced a similar problem?
All replies gratefully received!
Dave.

I'm pretty broad minded, thick skinned and don't mind a bit of banter. However in the past I've seen some quite sharp responses to what one member posts on the Forum, almost a recoil reaction. The one today, post #15 about engine balancing is plainly unpleasant, unnecessary and degrading; I wouldn't like to have read that about something I wrote. I do sometimes find his posts a little difficult to interpret but I respect his point of view - but I don't have to believe him, or anybody else for that matter, or take any notice if I so choose.

Austin Seven FRIENDS is the Forum banner, we should stick to that motto and be constructive.

Disappointed Dave

At the NEC last weekend I had a chat with a firm that is producing an L.E.D. illuminated warning triangle. It is a well built bit of kit and would most likely be far more effective than one that is not lit. It has about a dozen red LEDs which can either flash or be static.

Did occur to me that strapped the rear of a Seven and lit it would be a great safety measure both day and night. However I do realise there are rules governing this sort of thing. I guess flashing is an absolute no-no but would a static lit triangle be OK? Anyone know for certain?

The company is willing to enter into a discount arrangement for clubs.

I am looking to buy a luggage rack that is suitable for a Box Saloon - any condition, in fact the grottier the better in this instance.

What have you?

The RP has a standard Zenith 26VA carb. The spindle has no excessive movement up down and sideways but does move in and out by about 2mm.

I cannot get the idle revs to come down to a sensible level.  I have removed the linkage, the choke arm is not in contact with the throttle arm, the idle screw is not touching the throttle arm. Yet it still is idling at around twice normal revs. It picks up cleanly.

Presumably the butterfly is not closing sufficiently?

Any suggestions?

Hi, 
Has anyone out there got a timing gear inspection cover spare, as apparently I need to replace mine, ( see what's this on forum) I am obviously willing to pay for item & postage. Thanks