these don't seem very common; has anyone found a good reasonable source of these in UK?
globe is only 18.5mm so better for confined spaces

Which would be best/longest lasting shackles to use:
a. original big 7 with the threaded pins/bushes.
b. conversions big 7 to ordinary 7 pins/bushes.

I have both so presumably use up the Big Seven threaded ones?

(Bearing in mind I have heavier BMC A + engine and hydraulic brakes)

Dennis

How to remove core plugs from top and bottom of king pins in the easiest non damaging way to the stub axle??
I so far attacked it with a 5mm wide cold chisel which took a bit of effort and time for not much success then drilled 3.5mm holes close to each other then lowered drill gradually till virtually drilling horizontally making a slot into which a leverage could be  applied.
How do you do it?  Is there a simple quick way?

Dennis

Just in case you wondered what the Castrol XL sign looked like I have posted a picture of one.
Price? At the moment I do not have a costing from the manufacturer but looking at around £90 ish.
Jim.

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Just to let you know that I have just two 'The Dependable Austin' Dealership double-sided  signs still available. With postage and packing within the UK they work out at £212.40 each  these are faithfully re-manufactured to the same specification as the 1920's originals. Also I am about to re-order a small quantity of Castrol XL  'As recommended  by the Austin Motor Company' . should this be of interest please let me know.. Jim.

I have a friend with a 1931 boat tailed tourer which he has used as everyday transport since the 1950s. He relined the brakes in the summer and soon after when he brakes the brakes grab there is no gentle braking. So he relined the brakes again with linings from another of our cherished suppliers, these have now developed the same problem and with winter approaching and possible icy roads he needs to find an answer. His car has coupled brakes and 1.25" brake shoes and drums. I've gone through the usual loose brake shoe pivots, broken brake shoe springs, oval drums, worn king pin bushes and or shackles. Help, have any of you got any ideas as to the cause.

Good evening, assembled gurus,

What, if any, is the recommended end float for big ends on a re-ground crank with re-metalled rods?

3 of the rods move back and forth a little, the fourth not at all, though not tight, since the engine turns by hand.

I have yet to remove the block and see if they have been "barrelled" - or whatever it is called.

Thanks

Simon

Does anyone have a brown leather rear seat squab for a 37 Ruby in restorable condition ?  I'm in south Lincolnshire.  Thanks.

Please  contact Peter Smith on   01778 560565  or   73pgsmith@gmail.com

    Started cleaning up all the clutch bits for the AllAlloyCup.
All seems OK but the early type release bearing may not be quite right ?
There’s a fair bit of slackness in the part that the levers bear on? It spins ok but
I can move it a few mm?

Is this normal or should it spin quietly like a wheel, or engine bearing?.
It also seems hard to find a replacement?
Only one supplier lists it but at £125!

I’m new to Austin’s so please pardon my ingnorance

Bill G

I have resumed work on the Hillclimb car project and this week mounted the rear axle.  By means of drop links on the axle and reverse camber springs the chassis is very low, the top face of the side members being approx. 10" above the ground.
My next job is to fit the torque tube anchor.  I am using a Ruby type axle and the anchor is of the Silentbloc bush type.
With the anchor positioned such that the torque tube is level (the car unladen), the prop-shaft will follow a nice level line to the back of the gearbox.  I am concerned that when the car is finished and laden, the rear suspension will deflect and this will result in the torque tube sloping down slightly at the front.  I know this can cause the axle oil to drain out at the front end of the torque tube.   With a slight inclination is this likely to occur?
If I raise the torque tube anchor to give the torque tube a slight upward slope the line of the transmission does not look quite right.   I do not want particularly to have to raise the engine and box in the chassis as there is sufficient ground clearance as it is.