I have been looking for a picture of the eccentric disc setup tool for Austin C/W and Pinions - I know I have seen it somewhere but cannot find it.

Does anyone have a picture they are willing to share please?

Hi All

Having discovered our propshaft was the wrong length in that it was lock solid between the fabric joint and the rear flange I did a bit of investigation as I was under the impression there were only two lengths long and short for the the long and short chassis.  I discovered that there is a long one for the long wheel base and three for the short wheel base cars.  The below is from the Austin Handbooks and the Austin Index Pages ref to the A7 Companion for info.

1926 Handbook 353j Propshaft Part BP28 Three speed box speedo on pulley, Type 1 axle (A7 Companion).
1928 Handbook 353w Propshaft Part BP28 and BP73 speedo on back of three speed box (I guess shorted due to longer gear box), Type 1 axle (A7 Companion).
1930 Handbook 670c Propshaft Part BP73 speedo on back of gearbox, Type 2 axle (A7 Companion)
1931 Handbook 670d Propshaft Part BP93 Increased length due to torque tube change in axle type (this is noted in the index pages), Type 3 axle (A7 Companion).
1932 Handbook 888 Propshaft Part BP93 and BP118 the latter for the long wheel base cars, Type 3 axle (A7 Companion)
1932 Handbook 888a Propshaft Part BP118 long wheel base cars, Type 4 axle “D” (A7 Companion)

       

Measuring from the fabric end of the propshaft to the middle of the cardan pin I believe the order is as follows.

BP28 original propshaft 20"
BP73 reduced for speedo on rear of gearbox 19.5"
BP93 does anyone know what this propshaft measures?
BP118 26".

We now have the correct propshaft but curious as to the length of BP93.
Thanks

Douglas

Hi all

I have decided to replace my rusty number plates and purchased a replacement from a cherished supplier. The replacement does not match my current plates as the indentation on the edge is not as deep and is not flush with the back.

Who is currently doing the best replacement number plates

Thanks

David

Hi,

Firstly thank you to those who assisted with my post regarding the brake light switch. Much appreciated.

Some advice regarding the petrol gauge fault would be great.

When switching the ignition on the needle lies dormant. When switching the ignition off the needle jumps momentarily. I have replaced the fuse as the original looked past its prime. There is power here confirmed by a 
functional brake light, both services using the same fuse box. The trafficators are disabled?

All help greatfully accepted.

Thank you.
Regards,
Paul t

   

   

Over the years on the old thread I often asked questions about Grasshoppers, even when they became politically incorrect! The driving force behind this was to build a replica.

Well, I can now share a couple of pictures of the car, which will hopefully be sufficiently finished to do the PWA7C winter trial in December. My Father has built the body, with my assistance when I have been able, many hundreds of hours have gone into it so far. Dimensionally it is quite an accurate copy of BOA 59. The rad cowl is a temporary GRP one, to be replaced with one made in brass and plated, in due course.

Mechanically it is fairly standard Austin Seven, with a mildly breathed upon engine, for the time being. The intention is to build a blown engine in time (anyone know the whereabouts of a Centric 125?) The colour is an attempt to match the paint found on an original component in an undisturbed state, its not quite right, but not that far off.

Thanks for all the help received so far from forum members and the wider A7 community.

Stuart Palmer

Just put the new linings on my 1930 motor and assembled the clutch today.
Found my lever tips were only about 1" off the clutch plate (explains why there wasn't much clutch movement when I got the car). 
I've added the 5mm rollers and now am a bit confused on setting the levers height.
My question is how far off the plate they should be set too?
Woodrow gives a measurement of 1"1/4
The companion gives 5/16" from a straight edge across the flywheel housing  - this Gives a distance of just under 1-3/4" from the plate.


Ps found a good use for the induction tool- heating the levers to adjust them

Thanks 

Bryan

Date: 24-09-2017

Classic Car Show, East Preston, Sussex

Hello All,
After all of Timothy's efforts to orientate photos the right way up,  I thought I would have another go at posting some pictures of progress with Slippery Anne

When building something, I like to make up a kit of parts, so that I can fine tune things as I go, it avoids problems breaking down assemblies when you find the inevitable fit issue. My current task is to skin the cars wood frame with ply and aluminium, which is what you see in the following picture. The ply skins are shaped and ready to glue to the frame. to get to this point, I made paper patterns, then cut the ply to those patterns allowing a small margin of error around the edge, they are then soaked in very hot water before being 'formed' around the frame. once they have dried out they become stable ply wood shells. With care, shallow compound curves are possible. Similarly, with the metal panels I am making up all the components before fitting it al together.


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I once again resorted to MDF formers and G Clamps to help me form the curved section of an internal frame for the nose cone out of aluminium. Clamping the annealed metal between the MDF, the edge was shrunk around the former, I then welded the legs onto it, returned it to the MDF to true up and the offered it up to the car:



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In offering up the undressed frame to the car, I discovered that the Ash part of the frame had 'moved' since I made it up a couple of years ago. It is seasoned English Ash with a lovely straight grain, so should be reasonably stable, but it had moved a good 10mm out of true at the top, so adjustment was necessary, to which end I used some localised steaming. I use a standard domestic wall paper stripers steam chamber and a small tin to localise the steam, then wrap the area in old cloths and towels to keep it nice and hot during the steaming. allowing 15 minutes for every half inch of the woods section before applying load in the desired direction.
One of the frustrations of working in wood is that it is that it can move like this component has, I usually make up laminated assemblies to avoid this sort of problem. The other frustration is the time you must allow for the various processes to work it; after steaming and forcing into position, it is important to leave it with the load applied for 90+ hours, that is 4 whole days while it dries out and the set becomes fixed, now what shall I do?


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So, having visited a friends Chummy (thank you Michael) and armed with the knowledge Ian and Ruairidh gave me about early hinges. Whist I wait for the ash to dry out, attention has moved to making the bonnet. 


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It has to be said that given my penchant for making paper and cardboard patterns allied to a recent interest in Irish Linen for covering the wooden body parts, has lead to certain members of my household suggesting that I may like to try dress making!

All the best, Mark.

In the early 50's a local garage - "Wood's Garage" - on the Stratford Road in Shirley, just outside Birmingham, had a fine collection of ancient bicycles hanging from the rafters. More to the point Joe Wood had a very early Austin Seven in fine condition that I (aged abut 14/15) really lusted after! Unfortunately it was not for sale and I was too young to drive, but Joe told me that the car had been restored by the Austin Apprentices at Longbridge and put on display alongside the newly announced A30 Seven.
I have never seen any publicity photos, but would be interested to know if the story were true (I have no reason to think it not so) and whether that car still exists. It was painted green with black wings & hood. Are there any ex- apprentices out there who remember it? They had done a fine job.

When were 17" spoked wheels introduced? Or were they a go-faster goodie?