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I've been reading through an old thread on prop shaft lengths. Three are mentioned - BP28 20" long, BP73 19.5" long and BP93 but no length given. Did the length for the BP93 ever get tied down? Looks like mine's just a bit too short!

Readers will be aware of all the problems I have had with my Big Seven but this one is common to others as well. My car regularly will not start or stops on a short run. Petrol can be seen leaking from the joint between the float chamber and the main body of the vertical downdraught Zenith vm30.
This means the carb is flooding and it would appear there are two possible causes.
1. Dirty fuel cut off valve
2. The fuel pump is not cuttin off pumping when the cut off valve operates.
I have three cut off valves - one new - and all three have been blown out and washed out so I strongly suspect it's the fuel pump. This is a new pump bought to replace the original and it does give a strong flow. However, I have just had the pump replaced with another new one and the same thing happened.
Has anyone else suffered this problem?

anyone got a picture of either of George Chaplin's Flea cars?

https://www.motorsportmagazine.com/archi...stin-seven

Wonder how much higher this will go than the £2300 BIN it appeared for briefly earlier in the week? 
New listingAUSTIN 7 SEVEN 1934 BOX SALOON BARN STORED SINCE 1960 RUNNING ENGINE OILY RAG

I'm looking for some pan head slotted screws in 1/4 BSF. All the suppliers I've tried in the US and UK seem to not have pan head screws in BSF...round heads, counter sunk flat heads, filister heads, cheese heads but no pan heads. Can anyone direct me to a supplier that would have these? They are for the dash on an Ulster rep.

Erich in Seattle

Wanted Bacon Slicer starter for rebuild or parts such as bendix or motor.
jrwa7w@gmail.comp

Does anybody have a damaged or un usable fuel pump with a good correct operating arm for a Mk2 Ruby ?
Mine appears to have the incorrect arm and I would like to fit the correct one before I carry on using the car.
Thanks
Joe.

I am in the process of replacing back axle after replacing a half shaft and I wondered what to do if it happened somewhere other than my drive whilst manouvering.

Looking up bravenet from about 2014 you can remove wheel and brake drum separate two halves of hub, pull broken half off with halfshaft still in it, put a ball bearing or suitably sized nut in hole and reassemble.

This pushes the half shaft in, lockking the diff, I assume by pushing the two half shafts together.

Since my failure was about the interference fit failing and the woodruff key getting chewed up ( I suspect a more common failure than an outright fracture). It appeared that by removing the halfshaft castle nut and then using the hub puller to “ push” the half shaft in, this would work as well.

What am I missing and why won’t it work!

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Whilst some Sevens were out with the Frazer Nashes and Bentleys on the circuit, we were chasing round the cones on the Autosolo.


  Dr Wallom 1934 sports.jpg (Size: 120.35 KB / Downloads: 161)

David Wallom, 1934 Austin Seven Sports Special


  JY 1930 Cambridge.jpg (Size: 115.55 KB / Downloads: 158)

Jon Yeeles in his 1930 "Cambridge"


  lance family nippy.jpg (Size: 120.99 KB / Downloads: 160)

the Lance family's 1936 Nippy 


  1935 Ruby.jpg (Size: 126.56 KB / Downloads: 158)

 a modest chap racing to a class 3 victory in a 1935 Ruby. It's not good manners to ask how many cars were in class 3.


  eleanor in ruby.jpg (Size: 100.51 KB / Downloads: 158)

and to show that Austin Seven Sport is not all about men, let alone men of a certain age, here is Eleanor Tarring on the line with a very young and enthusiastic marshall.

I have a couple of pictures of Sevens at Sunday's Autosolo to share, but unlike skilled posters  of images of Highland deliveries or the Cobham Trial, putting pictures from my computer onto the forum defeats me. No searching of Woodrrow or Williams helps. Could a kind person on a sunny Thursday morning point me in the right directiion?