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  Headlight Bulb
Posted by: AlfieM - 05-05-2018, 05:43 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (34)

        [attachment=2646]

Thank you in advance for anyone that might be able to help me.
I have a 1931 RN Saloon 6v twin filament headlights, (the bulbs that you have to focus by sliding in and out to get a decent beam pattern).  
The bulbs are 30w-30w or 35w-35w would do, bottom cap is approx 1.5cm across, 2cm from terminals to glass bulb and pins symmetrical.
Can anybody tell me where I can buy two of these by post?  I think the seven workshop list the correct type beside the other pre focus type.  See photos attached, the bulb I fitted today was the last of my spare ones about 40 yr old and had the number A235 on the cardboard box but can not get any result for this online.

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  Top Tips
Posted by: Colin Morgan - 05-05-2018, 05:34 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (32)

Hi - There is a lot of wisdom out there... here is one I picked up from a local club member years ago:

Go round and touch the brake drums after a run.  They should be at the same temperature - at least, side to side.  They are usually luke warm all round (it is flat round here). One too hot could mean binding, one stone cold suggests the brake is doing no work.

Regards,
Colin

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  direct comparison updraft FZB vs sidedraft Ruby carb?
Posted by: JonE - 05-05-2018, 07:34 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (9)

Has any one got any data/feedback of a direct comparison of these carbs/manifolds on a standard Low Compression engine please with gravity feed? My gut feel is that the Ruby units are going to give an increase in power and are worth hanging onto if presently in situ. But I'd prefer to revert to originality if there isn't a difference or the earlier is indeed more reliable or better.

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  Starting handle
Posted by: Colin Wilks - 03-05-2018, 12:35 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (9)

Having got the nose cone off for other reasons I'm having a look at getting the starting handle to sit at 9.00 o'clock rather than dangling at 6.00 as it does at present. Surprisingly, the rebates for the peg are not destroyed completely, but the peg is 90° out. Solution is to grind a new flat for the starting handle cotter, but I think there should be something else in there to prevent the ingress of crud, which will make its way into the sump via the timing gear casing. I am loathe to put a felt pad between the spring and the nose cone as I can see it working it's way into the timing gear area. I am planning to get a suitable washer and put this up against the nose cone as a seat for the pad, but am starting to think I'm overcomplicating things.

What do others do to sort this?



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  Boot Idea or Bad idea
Posted by: dannyteal1990 - 02-05-2018, 08:50 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (22)

I've had an idea that I wanted to run by you guys.

My Austin 7 Cambridge Special has two fuel tanks. A skuttle one (the main one) and a rear one (not used/Not connected up).
Since I'm a lot taller than the previous owner I'm having to move the seat back to allow me to fit/drive the car. In doing this it takes away the limited storage space that was behind the seat. 

Now onto the idea. I want to convert the rear fuel tank into a kind of boot with a door on rather than just carry it around with nothing in as the front tank will hold the fuel! Something to hold a few tools/jack etc.

Before i start hacking away at the fuel tank I wanted to make sure I'm not about to destroy a genuine Austin fuel tank. 
Anyone got any ideas what the following tank is from? Or if it's genuine Austin? There's a square cut out at the back of the tank.
   

   

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  CUR758
Posted by: Colin Wilks - 02-05-2018, 11:04 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (4)

Just read Terry McGrath's encouraging tale of triumph in adversity in this month's magazine (pp18/19) about getting one good 65 out of two. Motivating, but also making me feel guilty and a bit soft that I'm sitting inside looking at the wind and rain rather than being out there getting on with things.

Note to self - next time get the workshop sorted before buying the car!

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  conservation rather than restoration
Posted by: JonE - 02-05-2018, 10:41 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (5)

for those who don't use facebook, there is a web link here to some work being done on a very interesting 1928 RF...
I am going to try and get some photos of it in the next few weeks, and ask what they intend for the rexine... i.e what exactly does the owner intend for its future use in relation to practicalities in the conservation/restoration field.

https://sevenrk.wordpress.com/2018/04/25...arker-ltd/

There are a few more photos in the 'barnfind' bit on the main site...

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  rear facing starter mkII - which way up?
Posted by: JonE - 02-05-2018, 10:23 AM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (3)

1929/30 model, not bacon slicer. Can't find a photo with detail. It occurs to me that this can sit in two different ways in its housing. 

Where is the connector for the battery connector lead meant to sit - "above" or "below" please?!

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  Unidentified Part III
Posted by: CaptainBob - 01-05-2018, 10:56 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (10)

Does anyone know what this item is?



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  SORN and change of ownership
Posted by: Nick Lettington - 01-05-2018, 08:22 PM - Forum: Forum chat... - Replies (9)

Looking on the DVLA website it isn't clear if you need to make a SORN declaration if you become the new keeper of a vehicle off the road since before SORN existed. Logically, the text regarding SORN reads when you take a vehicle off the road... So it needs to have been on the road since 1998 to have to do this... But there isn't anything on their website that states this.

Has anyone recently bought a vehicle recorded on DVLA's database, off the road since before SORN? Were there any nasty surprises, or is it still not necessary?

Regards
Nick

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