When the gear lever on my 1934 A7 is in either 1st or 3rd it often times falls into neutral.  What might be causing this?

Hi all.  Perhaps a strange question.  In the quest to prevent corrosion  make cleaning easier and for looks I am proposing to paint my new front spring.  The paint I will use is KBS Coatings Rust Seal.  I know from much experience that it does what it claims: it is very tough (can be hit hard with a hammer and will not mark) and it is flexible.  So should not wear off...no chemical will remove it, it has to be mechanically removed.
I have dismantled the spring to its separate leaves and removed manufacturing heat scale and partially polished surfaces and removed the sharp edges at the ends where they rub.
I am wondering whether to paint the whole surfaces or just the bits that will show??  

The paint being American is difficult to get in UK and this is my last small tin which will be also used on all front suspension/hubs/back plates...so don't want to waste.
One consideration is that assembled and greased (with Molyslip CV joint grease) it is very difficult to carry out the process to clean/prime and paint the exposed surfaces....Moly is very persistant.

Opinions ?  Any snags I may not have considered?   ( Yes all nuts/bolts/washers get the comprehensive prep and treatment and paint before assembly  )

Dennis

1929 RK coupe, anyone?


  236291-1529587148-5577205.JPG (Size: 44.34 KB / Downloads: 662)

https://www.prewarcar.com/236291-austin-...-low-coupe

It appears to retain the standard steering column rake and seating position, so headroom must be rather lacking!

Good evening.

I have recently bought a rolling Ruby chassis with V5C, but no body shell, engine or gearbox.

The V5C describes it as an Austin saloon with a 790cc engine, first registered in July 1935. There is no mention of the model of the car or the number of seats.

Leaving aside any considerations about originality and the pros and cons of rebuilding it as an original car, my current thoughts for it are:
        Fit a Reliant engine.
        Buildi a Rubyesque two seater
        Possibly move the seats rearwards in the car and construct a longer bonnet and smaller cab
        Style it more like a Lombard coupe
        Fit a removable hard-top roof.

I shall be retaining the original, unaltered chassis, axles, brakes, suspension, steering, seats and some of the original body pieces which come with it eg grille and windscreen.

How would this affect things like MOT exemption and are there any other DVLA related matters that I should consider first, apart from notifying them of the change of engine? I have been reading the DVLA guidelines and seem to be getting myself bogged down in a morass of vague definitions.

Regards,

Jamie.

Now that is an Austin Seven (or nearly an Austin Seven) racing car ! 

https://www.prewarcar.com/236275-1932-pg...en-special

Reportedly cost 100.000 UKP !!

Hi all following on from the thread by Rubyman and his question about fitting oil baffles or not. It got my small brain thinking. I have run my Ruby for the past 10 years without oil baffles and this seems to have no ill effect. Do other forum member think it maybe down to the newer modern type of piston that has the second oil scraper ring at the bottom of the piston below the gudgen pin. Thus removing more oil from the bores.
I await your replies from people with greater knowledge on auto engines particulary Austin Sevem engines.


John Mason

Hi All,
        May be a bit Dim but cannot work out why it seems OK to fit after market cranks, rods, slipper pistons, heads, SU carbs, superchargers.
But two electrical Items that will be beneficial to a lot owners are jumped on.
Smacks of Double Standards.

Just asking
Colin NZ

I had my first Austin 7 RN in 1955/56. Paid £30 for it.  I can't remember the registration number but would like to 
see if it is still around.
Does anyone know if this can be achieved through any organisation by simply giving the names and addresses of previous registered  owners as at 1955/56. Thanks.

Smiley.

Thanks to the advice from members of this forum work on our Startin Van is progressing at a pace. The body is now in place, brake and clutch pedals accommodated in slots in the floor but one question remains - how does the accelerator pedal pass through the bulkhead/floor?
Does it enter through a hole or a slot like the brake and clutch?
Thanks in anticipation.

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

Anyone know where I might get a crankcase front bearing lip repaired? It is a 1928 magneto engine.

Many thanks, John