A question asked of someone who doesn't post - can anyone answer for them please? Its a '35 engine front starter if it makes a difference. 
thanks

I am opening this thread for those who are interested in the new 6V Dynamator and want to hear first hand experience of using them.

I have had mine fitted to my Pearl for about 500 miles now and have generally been very impressed with it's performance.  I used Vince Leek's excellent wiring diagram (see: http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_a...namat.html) to install it properly on my car and use it in conjunction with an Accuspark Electronic Distributor.

First (and continued) impression is that it is a very quiet unit that makes for a very smooth and well timed engine.

On initial start up it charges around about 16 amps for the first two or three miles, after this the built-in regulator (the original cut out is no longer needed) senses the battery is fully charged and the ammeter sits at zero, where it remains unless required for lights etc.  I understand that this means the battery is never overcharged, something I know that the original Lucas units could do over longer journeys, even on summer charge.

There was some concern raised on Facebook about the unit overheating, in my experience this is not an issue as it spends most of the time not charging.  After a long hard climb this weekend, in relatively hot weather, I stopped to feel the unit, it was warm but not anywhere near as hot as the rest of the engine.

The camshaft end gear on the new Dynamator unit is identical to the original Lucas one and they can be interchanged if required (this also suggest that a supply of brand new gears for your Lucas unit could be negotiated from Accuspark, if there was sufficient interest, I suppose).

I have noticed that on no-drive (between drive and overrun), when not charging, the backlash gave a small tinkle.  I have since retarded the ignition however and this appears to have solved the issue completely.  The Accupark distributors are extremely sensitive to timing and can take some setting up, I think I have mine in a very sweet spot now.

I made two small modifications to the distributor end of the Dynamator fitting  an o-ring between the cover plate and cir-clip to stop it rattling.  I also drilled and tapped a small how to allow a grease nipple to be fitted so that I can lubricate the gears at this end, I don't think it will need much but it can now been done without removing the unit, which I like.

   

Interested to hear from others who have fitted one as well.

Hi all, l’m looking for an answer to what might seem a silly question. Just re set the points on my PD. Tried to rev the engine with the hand throttle , but. the lever on the column moves as normal but the cross shaft doesn’t move although the throttle works via foot pedal. Any ideas how the hand throttle connects to the cross shaft please?  
Thanks & regards Kevin.

Help!

 Car started running rough on "drive it" day and hasn't been right since. I'm a newbee to Sevens and my attempts at finding any fault have gone nowhere.

Just wondered if there was anybody not too far from Bristol I could bring the car over to, to have a look, listen and drive, who has more experience than me, who could give me some suggestions as how to proceed further!

I've replaced plugs, blown through the three jets which were all clear. To my uneducated ear it seems to run rich, perhaps sometimes on 3 cylinders and wont rev up smoothly.

Any assistance/direction  would be fantastic!

Ron Perry BS4 4LT

Thirty year's ago, my '33 two-seat tourer was converted back to manual advance/retard and 'gas'. There has always been much friction in the rods and the mechanism at the base of the steering column plus the control box on the steering wheel, rotate. I've put up with this, but no longer. What is the problem, and is it curable? Furthermore, who might be nearest to me in Fareham, Hants, to take it apart, sort it, and at the same time perhaps reposition the worm in the steering box for a lighter lock?
Any thoughts would be most gratefully received! 'At wit's end'!

Much has been said about the weekness of Austin 7 steering arm's by believers, non believers, and drama queens alike, some have asked for evidence as to how deeply the cracks go, suspecting that they may be superficial. So I currently have a Chummy in the workshop for a few things, today I removed the front axle to replace the Kingpins and on inspection the steering arm was quite obviously cracked, after taking it off I decided to carry out a very technical destruction test with a copper mallet.  

Three heavy blows resulted in this!

   
   

has anyone got a spare front star washer? Just found I'm missing that bit.

Also still looking for a single useable closed hub centre 19" wheel that would do as a spare.

Is there any SWB suspension advantage in:

1. adding longer rear alloy links? (than the standard shortest ones)

2. removing one of the front droplinks to enable a direct axle connection?

i.e. for modern road driving

I only ask as these things are done for sports, and I'm not sure if the advantages would be the same.

thanks JonE

Hello all,
I am sure this has been asked a million times, 
but I am looking for info on the jet sizes recommend for a Zenith FZ22 carbie on a magie motor.

Thanks in advance
Simon

Hi all

The below may may make an interesting A7 Tour of New Zealand, if you are brave enough...

  1927 Horowhenua Chronicle September 8 comic.jpg (Size: 109.7 KB / Downloads: 182)
1927 Horowhenua Chronicle September 8, , Image reproduced with kind permission of The National Library of New Zealand Newspaper Archive (www.paperspast.natlib.govt.nz)