Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the dipping circuit for my AG tourer. I have now established it has R47 35/32 lamps with original Lucas Graves reflectors (which I eventually will get re-silvered in Birmingham) I have some Bosch bulbs somewhere, I will see if they fit the bulb holders (which do take BPF bulbs if all else fails)
I particularly need to know how to wire up the 9/CS dip switch (3 Terminals) to the terminal block on the bulkhead & thence to the light switch and on to the Head & sidelights. I can probably work out the tail light wiring.... Advice on wire gauges will be helpful too.
Were there any particular colours? the remains of the wiring to the dip switch are not much help. the "top" wire is white! Were they still in "armoured" cable in early 1932?
The wiring at the moment looks like the trade test (failed) of an apprentice electrician in week two of training! how not to do it!
David

Hi

I got my engine back together in November but found the red charge light would not go out.

It turns out the armature is no good. I had a few spares tested and they were no good either.

I got distractedly painting my Fiat Bambino before the cold weather set in. Now is the time to take the Austin 7 out.

Have any of you gone out for day trips with no charge.  How far did you get?  I have been advised it should be ok if I don’t need to use headlights.

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Hi Tony,
Sent an email to your new address, just wondering if you have received it, or have I used the wrong address.
Cheers
Colin Reed
NZ

Hello All,
 
I'm now within sight of the point when I will need a body for my special - well, probably a year away, but what with lead times, etc, it's probably the right time to decide what I'm going to do.
 
I think I'm right to say that I have a chassis (1932 LWB) for which there is no "original" sports body style, 1932 being the gap between the last of the 'Ulsters' and the fist of the '65s' (or tell me if I'm wrong about that).
 
Over the years I've been tinkering, I've had a number of ideas for what I might do, and my preferences keep changing!  However, I do need to work within certain constraints.  First, I'm not going to attempt to make anything myself.  There are only so many skills one can gather in one's life, and that's a big one to attempt; and I want something that looks good.  Second, my budget will not run to a completely bespoke body - I need to find something that's already out there, somewhere.  I see three basic options, and I would be very interested to hear what views colleagues have on the matter (and what bodies you may have hidden in your sheds...)
 
1. The obvious choice, and one to which I keep returning, is a LWB version of the Ulster, of the type produced by Rod Yates.  These seem to be proven, popular, good value, and actually quite desirable when complete (if some of the asking pries one sees are to be believed).
 
2. However, I'm beginning to err towards the suggestion that a more "correct" choice for a LWB chassis would be an aluminium Nippy/65 body.  But as far as I've been able to find out, no-one is 'producing' these (in the Yates sense of 'production') and a bespoke one would be beyond my means.  A second hand 65 body came up at auction a few years ago (so Mr Google tells me), but another one being available seems a remote possibility, unless someone can tell me differently.
 
3. A body which is not based on a production Austin body at all.  I was taken by the vaguely GE Brooklandsesque body on the 7 County Austins website a few months ago (.JPG]http://www.7ca.co.uk/HPIM3245[1].JPG ).  An LWB Brooklands?! (I hear some people exclaim).   Or perhaps a 50s-style Cambridge body?
 
I know many people have many views on this subject.  If you would like to share any of them, I would be grateful.  I should say, I have both straight and bent axles I could fit, and standard and lowered steering boxes, insofar as those might be  influencing factors. 

Thanks!

Urgent

Hello All,
 
The 1932 chassis I'm using as the basis for a special had a very loose cross shaft when I got it.  It turned out the zinc bushes had seized round the shaft and the spherical bearings had turned in their housings, wearing to a very loose fit.  Following suggestions on the old forum,  I removed the whole assembly from the chassis (ground off the rivet heads), "adjusted" the housings with the aid of a large hammer, got hold of some better bearings and re-did the bushes with some sheet zinc. 
 
However, when I came to put it all back on the chassis, i tried using bsf nuts and set screws to fit them.  For a reason I couldn't fathom at the time, if I tried to do the (necessarily quite small) nuts up properly tight, they would always strip their threads.  I finally worked out this was because, as the pressed steel flange of the hanger was tightened down onto the chassis rail, the resulting sandwich was not of perfectly uniform thickness - I was tightening down onto a slight wedge, and this caused the threads to try to cross and ultimately strip.
 
I did end up putting the hangers on the chassis using this method and nyloc nuts, not tightening them to quite the torque I would have liked.  Having had time to ponder this arrangement, and noting the safety significance of the component, I am not happy with this, and want to re-do it.  But how?
 
I've been researching rivets.  I assume that no pop rivet will do the job and I would have to use a solid steel rivet.  Has anyone tried riveting cold, using the set/snap method?  It works for garden spades, but I want to be absolutely sure the final fixing will be strong enough. I can't really justify investing in specialist hot riveting equipment (although it does look fun to do!).  I would be very pleased to hear from anyone who has successfully tackled this job.


Thanks!

Urgent 

Hello Friends,
 
I've largely been off the forum for a few years, for various reasons.  I'm now getting back on to a project i started nearly ten years ago and I'm afraid I'm going to be asking questions again! (I know how much you all like answering them really  )
 
I have a 1932 LWB chassis, for which I've been gathering c. 1932 components to suit.  When I left off my labours the last time I had got the vast majority of the bits to make a rolling chassis, many of which I had rebuilt/refurbished.  I'm tantalizingly close to the start of the "spanner work", to the extent that I've (perhaps ambitiously) cleared out half the garage and put the chassis onto axle stands!
 
At this point, one expects to find the things one hadn't expected, and so here's my first:  I've managed to bend one of the chassis rails!  When I got it, the top of the o/s chassis rail was corroded very thin, with even a few holes.  I cut this out and welded in some new steel.  As a rooky welder I didn't appreciate that the heat would distort the chassis.  On a flat surface, the o/s damper mounting now sits 1.5" off the ground...
 
I would welcome any advice as to how to sort that out.  I have in mind to use a large section timber fence post, some webbing straps and careful application of a 2 tonne jack.  Is that a sensible approach?  All suggestions and advice will be gratefully received.

Thanks!

Geoffrey

HI, Does any body have an Email address for Hadley crankshafts.
      Thanks in advance.
Colin Reed
NZ

A reminder to all that the A7CA Archives room will be open on SUNDAY 20th May from 10.00 am to 4.00 pm.
All are welcome to see the amazing range of brochures, posters, handbooks and awards etc. the Association hold, and to speak with some of those involved in the work of collating and digitising the collection. Ample parking.
Venue:
Triumph Sports Six HQ
36 Main Street
Lubenham, Market Harborough
LE16 9TF 

Chris Garner
Chairman - A7CA

Hoping someone can help looking for brake pedal for big seven ?

Something Chris Gould wrote piqued my interest - it concerned vintage car owners in Germany not being allowed to drive their cars to rallies. While investigating this notion I learned that many German (& Austrian) cities are now 'green' zones & fine you heavily for entering without a green car sticker, which a typical A7 seems unlikely to qualify for. Anyone know more about this? Or more exactly, how it might affect a touring A7 owner?