Does anybody supply new RN scuttle mounted fuel tanks? Couldn't see them listed by the suppliers.

Whilst on our way home last night from a weekend rally, when pulling away from traffic lights on a couple of occasions was very sluggish as if the clutch was slipping, drive would then kick in and all was well. Then, after stopping to check the route, let the clutch out but no drive at all. After a quick check called the recovery truck and had an easy ride home!
Upon investigation today, traced the problem to the near side rear hub. Wheel was very wobbly and when I removed wheel & drum, the hub nut was not tight and the hub turned on the drive shaft. A previous owner had put a poor excuse for a split pin in but it didn't pass through the castleations so nut could work loose.
Unfortunately the hub thread is jiggered so I'm unable to use the hub puller to remove it.

My question is, how come the hub could turn freely on the half shaft but not pull off and should the woodruff key not stop it turning even if the nut was loose? Have tightened the nut up and now have drive but am concerned that the key may have sheared or perhaps there wasn't one in the first place.

Any ideas how to clean the threads up to enable the hub puller to be used or how to remove it without puller?

Cheers

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I've recently purchased a 1938 Ruby and I'm  in the process of making it suitable to use. Part of this is to make the seats a half decent place to sit..... so I have treated them with Neatsfoot Oil which is what my research led me to and seems to have done the job, but this has now led me to a new issue:- the seats are now oily (obviously!), and they'll damage clothes if sat on.

So, whats the consensus for dealing with this new issue?

1. Keep going over them  with a dry cloth/rag until I've dired them out a bit?
2. Leave them to air and eventually they'll settle (sit on cover in the meantime).
3. Treat them with something else to seal them?
4. something else?!


Thanks in advance,

Ray

Good day

I removed my wife’s chummy engine 
so I could swap out the ring gear.

All done....trying to offer engine back up to 
gear box.... 

Someone help with tips and magic!!!

Any advise gratefully recieved!!!

Best

Pete

Please allow me to introduce myself 

I have just become the custodian of this little beauty.....
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As a serial old car nut and petrolhead this has brought me a great deal of excitement!   This forlorn Austin Big 7 is my first foray into pre-war motoring and i am chuffed to bits to have this little thing to play with over the summer. As with all the best vehicle acquisitions, it found me (opportunity favours the prepared mind and all that...) and I hadn't been specifically looking for an Austin 7...... consequently I know NOTHING about them. I am very green behind the ears on these and would welcome all help offered by those with more knowledge.....


Firstly, is a Big 7 owner welcome on these hallowed pages or is there a more appropriate forum for a waif like me?

Second, where can I get bits and buy parts for this little beauty?

Third, how much carry-over is there from the Austin 7 to the Big 7? are there many shared parts?


A little background on my car...... apparently it was a running, driving car when it was taken off the road (aren't they all!) about 7 years ago to have the engine mounts renewed and the clutch changed..... The engine was taken out, partially taken apart and ..... the project stalled. There followed some periods of woeful storage and the body travelling around without the mechanicals, until ultimately it was all reunited and I stepped in.
I now need to recommission the mechanicals, establish what is missing, put it all back together and get it back on the road, whereupon I can slowly restore the interior / exterior. 

Part of putting it back together will be doing all the jobs that are worth doing while the engine is out..... so what jobs would they be? flywheel oil seal? gearbox input shaft seal? anything else? Answers on a postcard please.

To corroborate the story of why the car came off the road a bunch of new parts came with it including new engine mounts, a new clutch driven plate and this box of goodies..... but what are all these bits? and where do they go?
I am guessing the black seal is the gearbox input shaft seal... but the felt seal? and the bunch of springs must be valve springs, right? but why 12 and are they possible to change with the cylinder head on? The bag of black rubber 'tubes' and plastic washers is a mystery..... as are the long eared springs..... I have no part numbers, workshop manual (if there is one!) or guides to go on......

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My first major job is to tidy up this:-

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So that I can put this back together and back in:-

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My friend Neil is also building a GE Cup and is researching a suitable
fabric to cover his project.

The original covering for many Austin’s was Rexine manufactured by ICI Ltd. 
This is no longer available I believe.
I see from an advert in an early edition of R T Nicholson, that as well as making Rexine
ICI also made a leather cloth called “P-V”. Does anyone know about the P-V fabric? 
and what is the best choice of modern made fabric that’s
A) waterproof
B) has some flexibility
C) and is UV resistant

I think this subject surface before but did not
Come to a definitive conclusion?

Regards

Bill G

Are we able to pay on the gate into the rally field on Sunday if we haven't prebooked through 750MC ?

Hi Folks,
I have recently bought a beautiful Austin Big Seven that was restored about 10 years ago and then laid up in dry storage.

It starts and runs magnificently, and i am coming to terms with the brakes and gearbox after too many years with modern stuff, but the steering is worrying to the point of putting me off using.

Now its not the vagueness, i was warned about that and am quite content with a gentle meander in a straight line, but the steering to the right is like somebody has put a strong steering damper on. I have greased all the joints and links in the steering and pushed loads of fresh grease through in case the old had gone hard but to no avail. If i jack up the front of the car it all moves freely with no load on it, but on the road its a nightmare.

I am left wondering if the king pins need to be reamed out a bit more? but being new to Big A7's or any A7's thought i would seek the advice of those who know. Is the procedure for Big 7's the same as other 7's?


Thanks for any support or advice offered, regards, Ian

I must apologise to any participants of the LCES Summer Tour last weekend who were held up by my recalcitrant Chummy, invariably on the narrow steep hills you had nearly conquered, and to thank the kind enthusiasts and passing strangers who gave me uphill push-starts.  The diagnosed fuel starvation was caused by this brown, resin-like matter in the tank.

   

Local light-carists suspect a residue from the bio share of the unleaded that has settled out during the winter lay-over.  My own fault for avoiding the cold in my old age.
Any other thoughts on this annoying problem (not my old age) would be appreciated.
Robin

Good afternoon.

I feel like I am asking an obvious question, but: I keep reading about converting the Austin 7 brakes to the semi-Girling type to improve their efficiency. Although I have had a look to find out what the differences are, the articles that I have found only cover making the change: the do not seem to give any explanation of what the differences are.

Could someone either point me to a suitable article or explain how the semi-Girling and Girling brakes differ from other Austin 7 set-up? I assume that my 1935 Ruby will have non-Girling brakes.

Thank you.

Jamie.