We haven't done so for a couple of years so would all Friends attending Beaulieu this weekend like to meet up at 12 noon on Sunday in front of Tony Bett's (7 County Austins) trade stall? I'm sure I heard Tony saying something about buying everyone a pint...

I'll put a call out on the tannoy to remind you all.

See you there - have a great weekend and safe journeys.

Hi All,
I would like to know the Factory camshaft specs for a supercharged Engine.
(ie) Opening & closing Times
PS not the local pub

Cheers Colin
NZ
Hard to believe no one has the Factory Specs

Bill has technical difficulties starting new posts from a library computer, so... 
'Suggest no one posts except to reply to things he wishes to initiate here!

I’m starting to plan out the electric circuits for my GE Cup Special.
It’s a 1925 Chassis and 1927 instrument set, but I’m using an early coil engine.

I’ve been looking at both relevant circuit diagrams
In Nicholson and it looks straightforward as regards
Ancillaries, horn , tail( +now front sidelights). Taking the Ignition feed from the panel to the coil rather than to the Mag.

However is it the case that the H setting for lamps sends
6v to each headlamp? But the L setting puts the headlight filaments
In series ie 3v to each lamp ( single filament)?

Thus the L setting is no use as a Dip setting so I suppose I’ll need to introduce a conventional 
6v Dip switch. Or is it preferable to cut the right bit of brass strip( on the control panel)

Any constructive suggestions appreciated.

Using 6v LEDs throughout.

Regards

Bill G
Aka AllAlloyCup

Ps will be at Beaulieu on Sunday.

When  I rebuilt my RP I used marine grade stainless steel cable and fittings to enable the rear brakes to be easily adjustable.  I originally manufactured a new brake lever to enable me to use a clevis and pin that was easily available from a marine supplier and this also allowed easy adjustment of the brakes by rotating the turnbuckle whilst still all connected as in photo 2.
 I have now reassessed my original design and gone back to utilising a genuine Austin seven brake lever.
 Doing this puts the cable very close to the rear suspension springs, do you think this is acceptable or is there likely to be a problem with the cable and springs contacting each other. The original cable route must have had the same problem.
 I have looked on the old forum and seen some photographs of a similar idea to mine but there was no mention of any problem with the proximity of the cable and suspension springs. 
 The configuration I have now makes it far more difficult to adjust the cable.
Do you think I should keep the A7 levers or is my method using my lever ok, this does move the cable further from the springs?

   
   
   

Please ignore the missing nuts etc.

Roger

I do not have a torque wrench. I have never owned or used a torque wrench. 

Do I need a torque wrench for basic Austin 7 stuff like taking a head off, and if so what is the minimum I can get away with spending please?

I look at ebay and there are a LOT of torque wrenches.... not sure where to begin.

On a warm summer evening it is all too easy to sit out on the patio to look at prices in Brightwell's recent auction. The alleged 1935  "Ulster" quasi replica that got such a bad review here, actually fetched £12,320 plus commision of course. Am I alone in finding that remarkable, for all the wrong reasons? The '28 Chummy  went for £13,100 and for almost the same someone bought the 1924 12/4 , that  is £13,200. Both the latter two eligible for various sporting activities and with at least some provenance. The "Ulster" price seems like a terrible temptation for Ruby chopping for the less honest.

I’m  looking for guidance from those that may already have repaired a worn gearbox gate, from a gate change box, obviously. Attached pictures show both top and bottom groves are “v”d, allowing the ball and lever to slop around.

Any suggestions or advice regarding repair would be appreciated.


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I'm modifying a magneto crankcase to take a Cozette supercharger and am interested in how people mount the supercharger brackets. 
  Obviously drilling and tapping the crankcase to take the bolts, but any stiffening ?

Were the 'lenses' in the headlamps of a 1930~31 'Ulster' plain / flat glass?
I don't know how many times I've looked at that Autocar review without noticing they differ from my own lamps (which are frosted glass).