I asked Andrew Goodfellow to make me a spare fuel can that would fit under the bonnet of my Pearl - it arrived today and I am quite delighted.  

   

   

   

I've just compared my new accuspark distributor unit and a good DK4A, and if I grasp the central spindle, I can't move the Lucas - it rotates nicely but there is obviously an extremely good fit in the bearings. 

There is a discernable sideways movement in the NEW unit. Its good and loose, but if I grasp it, I can make it move 1/2mm or so from its axis, enough for it to make a slight noise. i.e. its just generally "a bit more loose". 

Is that a normal tolerance for this sort of unit? i.e. what do others' new units do please?

new panel, perfect fit... (but not for my car which has a more non-standard floor than I'd previously thought!)

also have a pre-used SWB "narrow" halfshaft spare.. an ideal emergency spare.

pm for more details.

Does anyone know of a supplier of new bodies for the mazak bodied speedos, an internet search produced no results.
I have a complete silver faced speedo with a trip mechanism, but no body for it.

I remember an article in the "Grey Mag", a few years ago, written by someone from Holland, on how to measure the float level on the Zenith updraught carb'. I have searched all the Magazine Index, but can find no reference to this article. Anyone recall the article? I cannot get my float level correct by trial and error, and washers under the needle valve.

This is more curiosity than anything else, but could someone tell me what kind & gauge of wire/ cable was originally used to operate the forward-facing starter? Thanks.

My steering arm (the one on the car) has worn ends & I have bought end kits to make them tighter. There are a couple of problems with putting in the new parts
1. Getting the ball pins out (I don't have access to a press)
2. Getting the half cups out of the tube. As far as I can see they are pushed into the tube up to a step? After 86 odd years they are not keen to leave their ancestral homes. Penetrating fluid, judicious heat; they don't want to come out. I am concerned that dropping the tube onto a hard surface to encourage them to drop out will end up damaging the tube. It is relatively weak because of the cut outs.
various shims & hard thick distance pieces have dropped out of the end caps presumably to increase the spring pressure, they do not feature in the parts list. Do I put them back or keep them for future use (instead of replacing the spring perhaps!!)
Any ideas?
David

What size of the above would I need to encompass every three legged pulling job I might ever need on an austin 7, please?
(first, possibly need to remove carden type torque tube end to try putting a later prop adaptor on....)
thanks

I am in the process of removing the pistons on my 750cc engine ( I have been a mechanic for 65 plus years and stripped & rebuilt loads of engines car, lorry & plant but never seen a engine like the 750cc ) its my first experience of this engine, at the bottom of the piston liner there is a metal piece that only lets the conrod push through in a certain position what is this metal for, what does it do, its like a extension of the liner.

thanks rubyman

Good morning, All

"Slack Alice" Simon here.

Identity change due to problems logging on.

My computer says "connection insecure" and doesn't like me logging on.

The site doesn't like my details and the "password reset" didn't work, told me I had tried too many times.

Hence the change in identity.

Anyone else having problems?

I expect it is me.


Cheers

Simon