I have made a somewhat speculative purchase of a block and would appreciate some guidance on what my options are.
With my engine chewing a head gasket once a year (1000 miles) due to various breaks across the gasket caused i suspect by less than perfect surfaces on the block/head, and there being a lot of exhaust fumes from the tappet cover (with cord rings having been fitted by a previous owner to ‘cure it’) I have for some time been planning a top end upgrade/rebuild/repair.
Well, the opportunity has come to fruition. I have purchased a block with the following identification: 7521, 31 8 29. Now call me Sherlock, but I take it from this that it is a 1929 block.
My box is a 1933 model.
The block at first look appears basically sound. It needs some helicoils etc and some surface refinishing, but hopefully nothing too problematic from what I can see so far.
So to my questions:
The bore sizes are 2.235 to 2.237 inches. Is it safe to take it that this means that it has been bored to +30, rather than +40?
The block is ‘naked’ so no guides, valves, studs etc. I cannot see any significant changes from the 1929 to 1933 block design, so can I use this 1929 block on my 1933 engine? If so should I use the earlier flanged guide etc as on the pre 31 engines or can I just use the later plain guide etc in this block and so basically build it up as a 1933 spec block?
One of the water inlet manifold stud threads has suffered somewhat, as in below picture. Clearly this is going to be an area which suffers from corrosion. However, it also doesn’t take pressure. There doesn’t look like a great deal of material to take a helicoil and there is a decent amount of thread present, so recommendations appreciated, should I just use as is or attempt helicoil?
edit: there is more material than the close up image suggests, the shadow makes it look worse than it is.
I have a 3-speed box which lacks its selector forks, and the bar which crosses between them and accommodates the end of the gear lever.
If anyone has these knocking around and would exchange them for a few beers or equiv I'd be pleased to hear from you.
Good morning all. Once again my son and I made our pilgrimage to Spring Beaulieu. First of all many thanks to the users of this forum who stopped to say hello - without them the silence would have been deafening.
The usual old lags were there. It was good to see Jamie of the 7WS out for the first time since his indisposition, Tony Betts who tried to run me over (tip Tony, after I have paid you), Dave Wilkinson with his mass of parts and Willie McKenzie the quality of whose parts is amazing.
The number of unoccupied pitches suggests that interest in this event is on the wane, helped by over-officious organisers. Autojumbles need Autojumblers a basic business fact that seems beyond Beaulieu's comprehension. As for the public were there any other events taking place on Saturday? I heard of a wedding and a football match but did these affect the attendance? There were the usual tyre-kickers and ice-cream lickers in attendance, one of whom proclaimed that my lamps were made in China! The response that the last time I looked Staffordshire was not a province of China met with the reply - whatever..................
Best regards from Staffordshire the creative county.
Here I will compile photos and videos of the Austin 7 out in the wilderness as opposed to tucked up safely in the garage with bits missing.
The first video is our most recent trip and the longest since restoration. 80 miles. I know some of you may laugh but it was a big adventure for me and my daughters.
My special will tramp like mad if I try and reverse in a rush - for example against the clock at a driving test. From the thread on a recently purchased 1936 Ulster it seems I'm not alone with this. Rather than add to that thread (I was going a bit cross eyed there) I thought I'd ask the question here.
Has anyone got to the bottom of the cause and fixed it?
With my car the prop is the late type and rebuilt so no slop. Short damper arms and done up tight. Flat springs. Boxed chassis but the body adds nothing to the rigidity which comes out at about "normal level of not very stiffness". Engine is soft mounted.
I wonder if anyone knows what type of hinge this is and where I can find a replacement?
It is off the rear luggage hatch and one has broken.
Appreciate any help.
David B
Is there a more detailed route posted anywhere for anyone wanting to observe the cars and get some photos.
Particularly looking at the section between Oxenhope and Ilkley.
I've just acquired a 1936 Ulster having no experience of pre-war cars and I have number of queries for which any advice would be welcome.
1. the car jumps out of first gear, which I was told is normal. Is this actually the case and if not does it indicate significant wear in the gearbox ? 2. the car judders violently in reverse; clutch problems or engine mountings ? 3. what are the correct tyre pressures ? 4. does anyone produce copies of the original owners manual or something similar ?
I think that's enough for now, though I'm sure there'll be more. All help gratefully received.
