Apologies this is so close to the event (Hence putting in the main forum), but thought it was still worth posting for anyone who didn't know, and doesn't already have plans for the weekend.
As per the title one of the Twin Cams will be competing at this weekends Chateau Impney Hillclimb.
Lots more interesting stuff too including a few more 7s.
I think you may still be able to pick up discounted advance tickets (print at home).

Website: https://www.chateauimpneyhillclimb.com/

If anyone has any information or sources of material or pattern for 'Tapestry' trim from 1928/30 please make contact!
Which company may have been responsible for supplying such, as it may be they still have a pattern in an archive somewhere.
https://sevenrk.wordpress.com/2018/07/06...im-option/

Can anyone provide me with a pattern to borrow or drawings of a 1928/29 bonnet stay please. My bulkhead has a dimpled slot for the stay to locate in and the conventional bolt fixing at the radiator end.

Thanks in anticipation

Stuart

Question #1
How long is a "long" King pin & how long is a "short one? I don't know the history of my front axle/hubs, but my pins are ~3.475" long. They are in good condition with a consistent o/d 0.499-0.501.
The bushes are shot, with the i/d anywhere from 0.5085-0.5105 plus.  The axle eyes are not oval, but n/s is about .005/8" oversize. I did not have grease plugs ....the top of the Pin was sealed off with solder & a 0.750" plug jammed into the base! Stub axle numbers  are 1A4122/3

Question #2 can I simply obtain a new set of bushes & thrusts with a 0.500 diameter? the suppliers are suggesting that the bushes will need to be reamed (even if I buy a kit with new pins) Why are they not made to fit? leading to:

Question#3 I bought new Rear spring bushes & was surprised to find that they also need to be reamed to fit the (new) 0.500" BR58 Spring pin/rear spring bolt. As the new bushes are a (very) loose fit in the spring eye I cannot drive the bush into the spring to hold it while reaming it (if I had a reamer....) Why are they not made to fit their matching bolt?

With this thread I am hoping to start a discussion on the rebuilding of 19” solid centre script wheels.

 
I will be using the original wheel hub centres with new rims and spoke / nipple kits from Richard – Bros. to refurbish the wheel rims of my 1929 AD Seven which are not really serviceable (damaged, out of round, corrosion etc.).  


  NEW RIMS AND SPOKES.jpg (Size: 134.86 KB / Downloads: 423)


SO…. What methods, tips, tricks, tools and other related information can you offer to share with those of us contemplating this task?
 
Areas of interest would be:
·      Keeping things concentric on initial assembly.
·      Things to watch out for etc.
 
I have had a fair amount of experience rebuilding centre lock splined wire rims from MGs etc., but am interested in hearing from others who have had experience with rebuilding this particular type of A7 rim.
Any observations are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Stephen

Date: 03-07-2018

Midshires Group

Midshires Group will be paying a visit to the Cooke Collection of cars at Saddington on Thursday 12th. July at 7 p.m. The address is:
The Coach House
Chestnuts Farm
Kibworth Road
Saddington
Leicestershire
LE80RJ
Phil has arranged the visit and suggests we meet at 7 p.m. There will be a tour of the stores and car collection including cars, auto memorabilia , signs and much more . The cost is £5 a head and we hope 20 will attend to cover costs. Tea and biscuit are included . After we are going to a local pub for drinks.
The Cooke Collection started with one Bullnose Morris and has grown to 100 vehicles including Rolls , Bugatti and an A7 . 
Please contact Phil by e mail harbail@ntlworld.com or ring 01858 446300.
Future events for your diary :
9th. August - Pubs of South West Leicestershire and finishing at Stonet Cove for drinks and food if required. Start at 8 p.m. from the White Horse .
13th. September - David has organised a joint meeting with Notts and Derby group at a pub in Ibstock. Details to follow.
11th. October -Skittle Night, details to follow.
We are looking forward to seeing at one or all events.

Good afternoon all. For our sins my son and I own a Mk1 Mini, a very early MGB GT and 3 Austin 7's. Recently I had to order parts for all three - the Mini and MG suppliers required so much information the only thing lacking was my National Insurance number and blood group but they both sent completely the wrong parts!
On the other hand a short conversation with Willie McKenzie of ARP  at 4.30pm had the parts delivered to me at 10.00am the next day.
Big isn't best - give me the personal contact every time.

Regards from Staffordshire where the pot holes have filled with molten tar.

Stuart

I now have a new ring gear to suit my early style clutch where the starter motor faces the rear of the car.

I understand the old ring gear needs machining off leaving a 9.010" diameter onto which the new gear is shrunk.

The pressure plate is 1/2" thick and the ring gear 5/16" so it looks as though you could either simply machine right across the plate leaving the correct diameter or only machine away the part where the teeth are actually cut which would leave approximately a 3/16" thick flange and this would still have the fixing holes in it.

Machining right across would be simpler but creating a step would presumably give you something to locate the heated ring gear against and because there would still be full diameter fixing holes in the flange part these could be used to guide the drill when transferring the holes through the new ring gear.

Not sure if this makes sense but I just wondered what people normally do.   Also can anyone can recommend a place to get the machining done, ideally in South Devon?

John.

2004D06 letter in the Assoc magazine - about a late WOC Nippy project, but no name given. 

Anyone have a contact for a Seven owner who might live at Clarendon Road, or indeed anyone have a contact for a Roy Warburton also mentioned therein?

thanks Jon

Hi All,

Preparatory to sending the car to the paint shop, I pulled the G/B and the prop shaft. It is a short w/b Ulster Rep with a 3 speed box and spider to front Hardy Spicer joint in place of the fabric coupling. At the rear, there is another Hardy Spicer U joint in front of the torque tube. The latter is the hex head type feeding a bolt up banjo differential. At the front, the U joints are quite flexible with no play. At the rear, one U joint is flexible, while the other has a stiff spot. All the U joints are fastened with circlip and there is only one grease fitting and that is on the sliding spline on the front of the prop shaft. Can I remove the stiff U joint and replace or lubricate it and is it a standard size available from a cherished supplier? Do these have needle bearings or plain? Just to reiterate, the chassis is 1930, but the front fabric coupling has been changed to a Hardy Spicer joint as has the rear instead of the cardan block type.

Erich in Seattle