I have just become the proud keeper of a 1933 RP Saloon, registered NJ 802 called Nellie. I can only trace ownership back to 2009 when it was owned by a Mr Jupp who lived in Fleet Hargate near Holbeach in Lincolnshire. I also have a bill dated Jan 2005 from Holden addressed to a Mr Hamish Stewart of Wellingborough in Northants. There is a story that came with the car that Nellie was the wife of a previous owner called Mr Jones and the registration is NJ, hence Nellie Jones, but this could be a myth. I have MOT Certificates dating back to 1992 issued by a garage in Gamlingay near Sandy in Bedfordshire and one for 1993 issued by Shannon Motors in Potton, Bedfordshire. Shannon Motors still exists and I shall contact them after the bank holiday weekend. Is there anybody out there who can help with the previous history of this car. It has obviously been restored at some time in the past and since 1992 has covered 2150 miles, so not heavily used!! Any information, particularly photos will be very gratefully received.

Hi all
Went for a spin today and when I got home noticed a fair bit of oil had escaped.. on investigation it’s leaking from the brass union at the back of the crankcase that is the oil pressure take off. I have a fibre washer there sealing but it seems that when it gets hot it goes hard and starts to leak. What do people use to make a good deal here? A washer of different material or just some gasket glue under the union??
Cheers
R

Hi all, I have just read an article in my club magazine on the importance of checking  the tightness of halfshafts to prevent failure. I have had my Ruby since 1997 and have never touched the halfshafts. I  am weary of touching anything that has given good service for years and would rather leave well alone.
What would other forum members do?

John Mason

Hi,

I have an "Ulster" replica with a 1 1/4" SU Carb from a Morris Minor (I Think) with an AN needle which is fed from the scuttle tang by a 6 volt SU pimp.

I have set the timing to TDC fully retarded, it's a later DK4A distributor, but have always had problems with starting.   Mo matter what the weather it needs full choke to have a chance of starting but on the road seems OK.   However if you switch off re-starting is sometimes fine but more often problematic.

To try to resolve the starting issues I have dismantled and fully cleaned the carb, re-checked the timing, added fresh petrol, and made sure the float level is correct.   However, when I try to adjust the mixture at tick-over I can turn the jet up and down around two turns with no real effect on the running.

The plugs are normally black so it looks as though I need it very rich to get started but then it's too rich for normal running.

The engine was completely re-built by me a few years ago so I don't think there's any problems with compression etc and, as far as I can tell there's no leaks in the induction tract.

Any suggestions why I can't seem to adjust the mixture correctly?

John.

Camshaft timing wheel to replace one that has been savaged by an Accuspark Dynamotor gear.

Hi again.
Five days till the best event of the year, and I still have a whole page of tasks to do... Cam going in crankcase tonight... etc!

Thus the plan of stripping the steering box and going right through it, is long gone!

Can anyone advise please on the likely issue and remedy for a tight box!

I recall some 5 or so years ago adjusting something so that the mesh was a bit tighter, giving less free play.
Over time, it has gradually got tighter. Initially it only got noticeably tight when the steering was loaded during a high g turn. Now it is tight all the time. Quite stiff in fact.

I know it is in the box and not the drag-link or axle, as I have just rebuilt, lowered and fitted another front spring, so had the whole axle assembly out.

I have searched on here but could not find anything relevant. Also had a brief look in both green & red books but nothing jumped out at me.

Thanks in advance
John
Christchurch
New Zealand

Well chuffed having breathed life back into the electrics and achieved a fairly satisfactory noise; now my mind turns to cosmetics.

I note new badges are available for Rist horns, which affix with 2 small rivets - tempting. However there is no sign whatsoever of such a badge having been fitted in the past - no two small holes, no less rusty area on the trumpet.
The question then is did all Rist horns carry the badge?

It is stamped on the back of the armature cover with the AR logo, British make, 6 Volts.

I also note that while people seem to favour satin black finish for these horns, the unworn paint inside the housing is distinctly glossy - like an enamel plate. The inside of the trumpet looks matt green. The outside obviously was black but is mostly rusty now. Doesn't look like it's been re-painted.

Please nobody go to any great trouble, but comments are invited.

Are RP windows supposed to go right down into the door or is it usual for them to stop with a couple of inches of glass showing?

Currently we have removed all Club, Register and Associates' names from the A7CA website. This is to comply with the new regulations


We will be contacting all these relevant people requesting whether they wish their names to be re-included for the future and ask that you bear with us during this interim period.

Chris Garner
Chairman, A7CA

Hi all
We currently trial our RN saloon but my eye was taken by a project 1929 RK saloon at Beaulieu last weekend , thus another project enters the barn ! Excellent!

Having not owned an RK , I wonder if anyone has any advice or plans as to how the combined sliding and winding windows fit within the doors ? I’m probably being lazy asking but it maybe there is some good knowledge out there that could be put to use to ensure the windows fit and work easily ?!.

Also does anyone produce a 5.25 crownwheel and pinion for the screw in type torque tube axle? 




Thanks
Walter