I have a complete set of orginal rubber mats, removed from my 1932 Tourer way back in 1968, and which I would like to use again for the sake of originality.  My problem is that the rubber is now very hard and brittle.  Is there any way that the rubber can be made pliable again?  In their present state they're at risk of just breaking up whilst being reinstalled.

DThe I am in the process of completely rebuilding my 1934 rp saloon.As the car has to be rewired what are the pros and cons of wiring negative or positive earth.

Spotted at a "classic car" show in Ripley, a very tidy Jansen Carrosserie special with 850 Reliant engine. I had word with the owner from Harrogate, non member but very pleasant chap. He just enjoys driving it. Sounds good to me.

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Progress is fine, but it's gone on for too long.
... sidecar rig built by a W. A. Gristwood featuring JAP watercooled cylinders on the Brough crankcase cooled by a sidecar mounted Austin 7 radiator.

Fenella (swmbo) who was working on the Archive found this! I am assuming the link will work.
Robert Leigh

Are the early and late clutch toggle levers the same profile? They certainly appear so.

Or to put it more bluntly, if I grind the protrusions of a set of hammerhead type, can I use them for a 3-speed clutch?

I'm not being mean, it's just that I want to get the clutch done today and only have a poor set of early levers, and a quantity of good late ones.

Was reading 1976D (Sheeps Clothing) which has an article from Jack French, which I seem to remember also seeing in the Companion perhaps too.

It stresses for drivers NOT to increase throttle for down changes, and to use synchromesh. 

"For three speeds 'it will grunt but also put up with it".

i'm sure there's been discussion on good gear changing on the new forum, but what do people think of the above? Is it only for tuned engines? I can see that it might change the dynamic with Phoenix and the like, but what about for standard-ish old engines?

As three wheeler Morgans compete under ACU  rather than MSA regs, should certain Ulsters, like the team Jennings car pictured at Oulton Park, be considered as 2w cars and therefore also ACU eligible?

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I've been searching the websites and can't find BSW raised head countersunk(what we colonials call oval head) screws in 1/4 BSW. I initially tried to find 1/4 BSF but gave up and thought 1/4 BSW would be easier. I can't even seem to find these here in states in 1/4 20 UNC.  Stainless preferably, but unplaced would work and I'll plate them in nickel. Help please!

Erich in Seattle.

        Just had a look at Slippery Anne progress  This is my effort so far. Not quite up to the same standard. It runs but not quite ready for the road yet. (Stiff steering to sort out).

Posting questions about my recalcitrant BLIC Magneto has reminded me that I should be posting some updates on the cars progress.

As she stands, which is now on her correct 6" brake wheels, Slippery has functioning brakes and steering, her seats are in place and the floor is complete. The rear dampers still need to be contrived and the engine needs to go in mated to the nice close ratio box that Andy Bird built for her.

I have not yet covered the wood frame with Irish Linen, as I will have some work to do once all the chassis work is done.

I also need the radiator core, which is work in progress at a specialist who has the skills to make one angled at 45 degrees, but still has the tubes parallel to the chassis.

Taken when I had the whole car apart to paint her components and fit the floor and seats. have attempted to attach a few pictures, hopefully visible below.  The Gremlins have gotten at my efforts, as the post draft which will not let me see what images I am posting, so if the pictures do show up I am sorry for no an annotations.

The seats and chassis pictures are self evident, I have also inserted a shot of the front brake lever I fitted along with the bushed central pivot intended to stop the cross shaft flexing forward under load.

You will also be able to see the front chassis swan neck and parallel rear springs. 

I have included a picture which shows how the drivers right hip has to slot under the bodyworks frame.

Regards, Mark.

   




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