Good afternoon all. Is the throttle cross shaft on a 1928/29 car straight or bent rather like a hump backed bridge?

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

Hello All,
just fitting ht Allen screws to con rods.Do the allen screws need a washer under them.Using locktite as well

Hi all,

One for the boffins maybe.

I’m wondering if anyone knows the technical reason why on the front of the 1”1/8” crankshaft there is one roller and one ball bearing?  I’m not looking to do anything different just looking to understand what roll (pardon the pun) each different type of bearing is doing at this location.  What would happen if you used two rollers or two balls?

Thanks,

Steve

Hi All,

On my Ulster rep, the filter was installed sideways(?) from the head. Then it was installed(not by me) from the bolt holding the oil filler in. From there the lines went from the rear of the crankcase, through the filter, then to the front of the crankcase. Chris Gould's book on building replica Ulsters, suggests putting the spin on filter(a Morris Minor 1000 add on)on the engine side of the passenger footwell. I agree it gets  the filter out of the way, but the flexible oil lines then have much further to go, from the NS to the OS of the crankcase for the out to the in on the filter, then to the intake on the front of the crankcase. Am I missing something or does this increase by a lot, the amount of flexible oil line required?

Erich in Seattle

I have 2 new boxed oil lip seals labeled 9934  CR services (an SKF company). It is 1 X 1.624 X 0.25 inch (25.4mm X 41.25mm X6.35mm)  I cant remember where I got them from or what they are for........however I suspect they may be for the back axle internal seals to replace the half shaft felt seals.  Can anyone shed any light in this?  I have finished doing an axle total refurbish and seem to remember the lip seals I used were a slightly different size  (1938/39 heavy axle.) so what were these for??? maybe the earlier axle casing?

Dennis

This thread started back in 2013 - here:  http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...=show&cp=1


Photobucket appear to be allowing us to see photos again, thank goodness I didn't shut my account or delete the images.

Progress on the car has been very slow indeed (last update was 2016) due to me working on other people's cars instead. Nic Wiggins has worked away in the background repairing and restoring the windscreen, results of which can be seen below, awesome work for which I am very grateful.

Today. however, I was able to bring it out of storage and get things ready for the body to be mounted on the frame properly later this week...

I assembled the radiator into the cowl, fitted the cow horns, flitch plates and wing supports, the body was then placed into position and needs to come back about 2.5 inches.


   

   

   

   

   

   

   

I have a spare engine that I've repaired and refurbished that will be stowed beneath the bench to keep it out of the way. It's unlikely to be used for a while (fingers crossed) and I am wondering if it should be filled with oil before it is hidden from sight. I intend turning it over by hand every now and then. Any advice?

Good afternoon.

I have recently purchased a Ruby chassis, running gear and matching V5. From memory, it is late model, a 1935 version, I think. As it has no body or engine, I plan to build a new shell to and find a suitable engine. I intend to keep the machine to use, not to sell on again, so wish to make it to my tastes. Although I could source and rebuild another A7 engine, I understand that with some minor modification, a Reliant engine can be fitted which I believe could prove cheaper than a decent rebuilt A7 engine.

Does this necessitate a change of the rear axle or does the gearing on Ruby axle suit it the Reliant engine?


Thank you.

Jamie.

I think I have R47s on the 1929. They have been messed around inside a little, but the removal of the rim involves a sideways movement to disengage the 3 points and thus the front, from the bowl.

This feels much less secure than later lights which have a screw attachment for retaining the rim on the lower part of the bowl.

I intend to put some of the A7W reflectors in which would ideally be silicone sealed to the glass (as the bulb access points are rearwards).

This will make the rim elements heavier, and I'm wondering if this is a good idea with the securing mechanism that seems like it could be disengaged with a long, rough road, for instance!

what have others done with adding the A7W reflector units?

thanks

Does anyone know Daniel (?) who has a recently commissioned a green, Yates-body LWB Ulster and lives near Caen? Was with him when the front UJ disconnected from the drive shaft and would like to offer assistance and encouragement!