Date: 18-07-2018

Midshires Group Event

I have been asked by the organiser of the Victory Show in Cosby,Leicestershire, if any members of the Midshires Group would like to take their Austin 7s or Pre War Cars to the Event. It takes place on Saturday and Sunday 1st. / 2 nd. September and vehicles should be there around 9 a.m. to avoid any congestion. Each car plus one other will have a free pass to the Show. 
More details will supplied on request. 
Please contact me on cgdawson@hotmail.co.uk before 12th. August so I can arrange for passes.

I'm just throwing a chummy together at present (an AE to be precise).

The throttle shaft I have appears to be too long. I'm happy with the layout at the pedal end, but the carb end seems to stick further out than necessary for it all to lign up.

Given I found a disintegrated Mazak carb in the box of bits I assume the car ran latterly with a sidedraft so the shaft may have been modified.

This is where I am. Can anyone please furnish me with a similar photo with the correct bits in the correct places? 

It looks like all I need to do is undo the collar on the pedal end. Push the shaft further to the offside of the car. Redrill the collar in the revised position, saw off the end, and file for the pedal bolt at the correct angle of dangle. But a photo to confirm would be good!.

Many thanks in advance.

1932 AG tourer with two piece screen (as Chummy).
Does anyone know how the frame would have been finished? The uprights are steel & have signs of black paint (enamel?), the frame is discoloured brass, but shows no sign of paint nor plating. Would it have been polished         (& lacquered perhaps) or unpolished brass?
Any ideas?

A particularly energising day as I got to be the guinea-pig for "Dr Anderson's patented Austin 7 fixed pole towing arrangement prototype", to recover my car from home to my mum's garage (from hilly, nasty roads... to quiet flat roads to enable "starting to get it running again")
James has devised a link to affix said tow pole (which is available quite reasonably at shops near you) to the front Austin axle. Worked extremely well, especially when I'd mastered the brakes enough to reduce any drive train shunt from the pole on its fixings at either end.
And what's more, the car bearings and brakes have had a bit of a workout over 16 miles and nothing fell off! A lot, lot safer than a tow rope, which we of course had as a back up. Thankyou James!

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Good evening all. After my request for a 1928/29 bulkhead to bonnet stay out of the blue I received a superb pattern from Mr. Williams (from Wales) via Brian Downes of Stafford.
What a marvelous fraternity Austin 7 owners are!
If Mr. Williams could email me on stuart.joseph@btinternet.com I can thank him personally.

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

new (but my floor isn't correct pattern enough for it)  £40 posted

Help!

We're building a van body onto a Mk1 Ruby floor pan and front end.  Before I upset the purists, we haven't chopped the car; this is a re-working of an older heavy and hideous conversion. 


I have to make substantially new rear wheel arches for it and before I can finalise these, I need to make sure that the rear wings are correctly positioned.  These need to line up with the running boards, which date from the earlier rebuild and which I plan to re-use.

I'm concerned that the back end of these running boards is wider than it should be.

Could some kind Mk1 Ruby owner please confirm the width of the boards at the B-post (as photo)?

Many thanks!

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Hello all,

I've recently joined the forum having acquired my Grandfather's first car, a 1934 RP Saloon. I've previously owned Westfields (the most recent of which I have just sold to fund this) and other sports cars but this is my first foray into classic or pre-war.

I'm not sure quite when he stopped using the Seven (and he's no longer around to ask) but I guess at some time in the late 50s or 60s. Since then, it has sat forlornly under their car port.
It was sent for restoration sometime in the 80s but I believe the garage may have gone bust, but whatever the reason, it wasn't completed and what was done wasn't to a very good standard. It was returned in kit form, and was pushed back under the car port, where it has remained ever since. I remember sitting in it pretending to drive when I was a kid.

It passed to my grandmother when he died and then she passed away 18 months ago. 
Following an extended probate process, it is now available for me to rescue.

Their house was sadly like something off a hoarding programme on the TV, so the first task was to find it, and all the bits.

This is where it lived:

It was buried under, between and on top of an assortment of rubbish:






I managed to find almost all of the major parts in various states of repair (mostly poor!):



Engine was just sat on the frame. It (unsurprisingly) is seized.


Rear of the front bulkhead, it's not survived too badly, but unfortunately, the front was sat under a hole in the roof and has suffered as a result.

Much digging, two abandoned cars dragged off to the breakers, and one twelve yard skip filled, I was able to see it and clear a path to get it out.


After a few weeks, I was able to reach agreement with the estate executor and one of the chaps from the Westfield club kindly agreed to drive over and collect it for me with his trailer. 

This was the day when ACE 198 first emerged back into the world a couple of weeks ago:





Its (now cleared) home for the last decades:

Hello

Guidance and opinions please.

1937 Ruby. It will start on the handle or button cold or hot but has a large flat spot on initial press of the accelerator pedal which will stall the engine unless extreme clutch and throttle feathering takes place. If I pull out the choke the flat spot almost disappears pointing me to fuel mixture issues.

Using carb cleaner on manifold joints or carb body/ spindle does not change engine note so no apparent air leaks.

The air screw on the professionally overhauled Zenith has no effect on either the idle or running of the engine.

Underneath the carb I removed the blanking screw and find that the compensating jet looks a tad mangled, i.e. the majority of it is missing albeit there still appears to be a small drilling at the bottom. See attached image.

On top of this I also fitted a fresh dynamo and have found there to be excessive float/lash between the cam gear and dynamo which is also excessively noisy.

My questions are;

1. Does the air compensation jet need the be completely intact for it to function correctly?

2. Why does the air screw not change running conditions?

3. The excessive play in the dynamo must cause play at the distributor end. Is it possible this is where the flat spot emanates from? 

4. Will lapping the cam gear remove the lash between dynamo and cam gear ?

Apologies for so many questions. Still.learning.

Cheers in advance.

Dave

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Finding my speedometer not working I used a drill in reverse and proved the speedometer and cable  from the gearbox was all working.
The gear fitted has 8 teeth, on a spare gearbox I found one with 9 teeth, neither appeared to turn when rotating the drive shaft by hand.
The worm wheel on the gearbox output was not visible, the one on the spare box was far more visible.
Does anyone know how many teeth there should be, it is a 4 speed synchro box in a 1933 RP.

Roger