anyone on here get the Sawyer Special recently on ebay and now sold?
Looked a nice project and will be good to hear what comes of it.

To help with progress on my rat look chummy. 

Can anyone help me by providing a picture of how the front seats should bolt onto the floor on a chummy? 

I suspect strongly the seats I have are not 'chummy' items, nevertheless im missing the connecty bit so some pictures of the pukka items will be of great help. The floor seems to be a bit different from my saloons. And in anycase I know the seats in my RL are ruby ones as they are too wide.

Also can anyone suggest a dimention to set the number plate hoop on the back of the car? Say a dim from the bottom corner of the body to the inside of the hoop. I want to be able to get the spare wheel off, but I want to keep the overhang to a minimum. 

Progress at present. I hope to be driving round in it this time next month



Many thanks in advance.

The Historic 750 Formula race series is having a wonderful year with another full grid expected at Cadwell this Sunday!

As a result we now have a waiting list for Austin 7 based race cars in any condition.
If you have or know of a car gently gathering dust at the back of a barn or garage and is in need of a new appreciative owner do please get in touch

PS 
The VSCC has thrown the gauntlet down to the H750F and will be holding a joint Austin 7 only race at Mallory Park on Saturday 11th August. 
Do come along to watch this (so far...) unique event.......

Charlie Plain-Jones 
Historic 750 Formula - Austin 7 Representative 
Cplainjonesaustin7@gmail.com

All set to leave tomorrow morning for the SA7C rally at Guildtown. Looking forward to the run on Saturday with a bit of trepidation as the steering lock is very restricted by the front wings and any hairpin bends will involve a bit to two stepping. Just for Ruairidh - still need to take the seat squab out to drive it but you can get your feet in without hitting all the pedals at the same time!
 
       

Hi All

Had the rear wheels off the Austin today and noticed a drop of oil at the bottom of the offside brake drum. On removing this I found the break shoes covered in oil which has obviously leaked down the axle casing and past the felt seal at the hub.

Can anyone advise is there a barrier up near the differential that the oil is also getting past (before it makes it to the hub) that I need to renew or is it just get a new felt seal for the hub? Does anyone use anything different than the felt seals? I've heard of people drilling holes in the underside of the axle casing to allow oil to leak out rather than getting as far as the breaks but surely it shouldn't get this far in the first place? Its a 1932-38 "D" type axle

any thoughts?
cheers
Robbie

Bonjour from France,
I am looking for a set of Phoenix con-rods, 1 1/2. I you have, or know one who has, one for sale, please let me know.
Thank you,
Daniel

In deepest, darkest Dordogne today - who’d have thought it!

   

Hi people
Me again could anyone help with specifications of 1936 Ruby clutch pedal.
Or the length of the pedal would be useful.
Regards
          Tim

Just wondering how critical the comparitive weight
of connecting rods are?

Weights in gm. are:
No 1- 359
No 2- 355
No 3- 350
No 4- 342

Given the format of the A7 crank

1+ 4 = 701gm
2+ 3 = 705gm

Should I refrain from removing any metal from these rods?

They will be fitted to a new steel crank and still debating about doing some modest
Lightening of the flywheel before getting the whole assembly balanced.

Not planning on doing any racing or serious trialling

Still plugging away on the alloy wings and tailcover so mechanicals are a pleasant relief!

Regards

Bill G

Could someone please enlighten me to the correct assembly of the drive end of a C35M dynamo? I have found an exploded diagram of a C35A but the assembly is different.

Many thanks
wild_willy