I recently came across a new set of good quality pistons where one was damaged. The skirt was broken below the lower oil ring groove, probably done when it was being installed. Looking at it, it occurred to me that one could mill away the skirt to remove the lower oil ring and end up with a shorter, lighter piston like the sports slipper piston but with a complete skirt. Obviously you would have to modify all four pistons and re-balance them, but they would at least be usable. Has anyone done this in the past? Can anyone see any glaringly obvious reason why this would not work, especially in a standard engine.

We're just back from another Scottish Austin Seven Rally at Guildtown, an event we always look forward to.

This was the scene on Friday lunchtime, working out the 3D jigsaw puzzle. Three people plus full camping gear into a very small car.

   

The journey down was hot and sunny. We paused in Aviemore for ice creams (where the tarmac on the High Street was melting) and Pitlochry for dinner.

   

Arrived early evening and set up camp, and into the tent just in time for a dramatic thunder storm.

   

Excellent road run on the Saturday, passing fields of unidentified flowering crops ...

   

...and following Tony's gorgeous one-and-a-half seater.

   

The Saturday night ceilidh was as wild as the weather and great fun. Sunday's rally gave us a chance to pick up one or two spares and admire Sevens of all shapes and sizes

   

   

Prize-giving brought us a big surprise; for the first time ever we won the long-haul award! Many others had travelled much further (including our valued autojumblers) but we did it without a trailer!

The journey back was uneventful apart from relentless rain. The Ruby performed flawlessly and had another 300 miles on the clock by the time we got home. We missed seeing one or two of the regular attenders this year, but it's still one of our favourite events and well worth a visit next year if you've never been.

Many thanks to the organisers who put in so much time and enthusiasm.

   

A question. Does it matter which way the little end bolts face when reassembling a Mag engine? The bolt heads were facing away from the valves on disassembly. What are your thoughts please?

John

In follow up to the discussion on the 'Austins Victorious' thread, here are my videos and photo's from Saturday, and including some of our journey up from the New Forest on Friday and back Saturday evening.
As discussion of events seem to be going better in the main forum I will post them here (rather than the events forum) for the time being unless there are any objections.

We had a brilliant weekend (as always) at Pre War Prescott, as I said in the other thread, it is one of our favourite events and one not to miss.

Starting with Video of our travels including my run up the hill...


Video of quite a few cars on the hill, due to the way it runs, it wasn't possible to ensure getting everyone, so apologies to anyone I missed...


And finally a few photos of Sevens. Please do click any of the photos for my Flickr Album, 238 photos, covering most all of the 'Pre War' Machinery.































And to finish off one from Friday Evening on the driveway of Stanway House...

Another Leeds waterski special?
eBay item number:


273374592593

After spending a lot of time trying to locate a valve seat cutting tool I finally gave up and made one.
               

Either I had to buy an expensive seat cutting kit or spend a lot of time at auto jumbles (swap meets) hoping to find a suitable tool that would do the job.  Since I didn't envisage doing a lot of valve seat  reclamation I opted to make a tool for occasional use.

The cutting bits are shaped silver steel hardened and tempered, with set screws in the body to allow for adjustment as required. A quick test on a spare cylinder block confirms that it will do the job.


If you have made tools or things to allow the repair of your Austin we'd love to see them.
Cheers,
Stephen 

I started a thread re reflectors for R47 headlamps, I now cannot find it despite several searches.
Thank you to those who replied with helpful suggestions.
I have now bought a new pair of reflectors from Willie at Austin Reproductions, they are identical to the original apart from the bulb holder , well made and good value for money bearing in mind the cost of refurbishing and resilvering originals, they are an outright purchase, not exchange units.

I am working slowly but surely through my new top end.
I am trying to do as much as possible to have a finished top end read to swap over so that I have minimal down time.
Learning as I go I shall be buying pistons and sending them with the block for rebore.
This leads me to my latest question. 
Remembering that a little knowledge is dangerous my understanding is that pistons can come with pinch bolt or fully floating gudgeon pins, so I need to know which to order to go with my existing con rods.

From a previous head gasket faiure I took notes that my pistons are marked 11121 plus 40 thou (I did not make any notes as to an RS being present). 

From what I can find referencing 11121, I have found.

Hepolite Pistons Application List:
Reliant Regent 8, 10 & 12 cwt three wheeler van 1948 - 52
Pistons: Alloy 2·20" Bore and 1·13/16" Length - Hepolite Ref. RS11121
Pins: 1/2" Diameter and 1·15/16" Length
Type: SC i.e. fully floating pin retained by SEEGER circlips

So my questions:
Does the 11121 reference therefore mean that I have the fully floating gudgeon pin type or can that reference be on either floating or pinch bolt types and if so is there any way for me to find out what type of pistons/rods I have without taking the sump off and looking up? .
Alternatively I guess I could take delivery of pistons minus gudgeon pins and have the pistons fitted etc and then take delivery of the pins once I have taken the engine apart.

Thanks as always
Andy B

finally started to get the replacement diff ready to go back into the car. Only to find the brake shoes no longer fit.
Diff is the screw type. It appears that the shoe pivots have been relocated at some stage.

Attached Files

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Hi All,

On my Ulster Rep, I currently have a steel cowl and cycle wings. The wings bolt directly to the sides of the cowl, apparently with no ill effects(no cracks or distortion). However, I have a new brass cowl. I have heard that it is advisable to fit a stiffener which arcs over the fan blade and stiffens the cowl and was designed for the 65. Is it advisable to fit this or would simple backing plates behind the wing fixing work as well? In such a case, they won't stiffen the cowl across but would stiffen the are of the fixing. If I need the 65 part, I've heard that Rod Yates makes them. Is he available by email or only phone?

Erich in very hot Seattle!