Good day all. Thanks to the advice on the throttle cross shaft it is now installed but very close to the block. This prompts the question what is the spacing between the depression in the bulkhead and the block/core plug?

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

Starts: 23-06-2018
Ends: 24-06-2018

Bristol Club Rally @ Atwell Wilson Motor Museum, Wilthire

36 Stockley Ln, Calne, Wiltshire, SN11 0LJ

Website: http://www.ba7c.org/rally.html

Details copied below, I believe open to members of other clubs, but do contact them to verify...

Quote:The Annual Rally will be held at the Atwell Wilson Motor Museum, Calne, Wiltshire SN11 0NF.
Camping will be available on site from Friday afternoon until Monday morning at a flat fee of £15.
Water and loos are available, and arrangements have been made for us to use the showers at the Calne Leisure Centre, a four-minute drive up the road, for £2.50 per person. BBQs and stoves are permitted in the camping area, and dogs are welcome on a lead.
Blackland Lakes Camping, next door, is open if you prefer a more organised campsite, or there is a hotel in Calne and B&Bs locally.
On Saturday afternoon Norman Whitworth will be leading a run through Wiltshire, which will include a visit to the REME Museum at Lynham. On Saturday evening we will enjoy a “bring your own” picnic/bbq supper - and there’s a pub within walking distance if you’re thirsty. There are pubs that serve food within a short driving distance.
Sunday is the static rally - cars can arrive from 9.00 am, with judging starting at 11.00.
Entry fee for the rally is £15 per car, which includes two tickets to the Motor Museum which now, of course, houses the Jack French Garage, which will be of particular interest to all A7 Special owners.
The Rally Entry Form is included in our April newsletter.
Please contact us for more information and the entry form – here

Does anyone know if some kind of 'seal' existed between spare wheel cover and body on the original road-going 'Ulster'? In the past I glued a bit of closed-cell foam strip around mine, partly to stop it sliding off, partly to impede water ingress, and partly to save the paintwork. I'm not aware that such a 'seal' existed on original cars though, does anyone know better? My sealing strip is up for replacement so I'm wondering what is 'correct', or indeed whether someone has a better way.

I'm fortunate that my 1934 tourer was registered by Radnorshire CC and their records still exist.  On my copy there is a column headed 'If cancelled, date of cancellation' and it seems to record subsequent taxing areas.  Thus the last entry shows Kent in 1957.  Was this typical of car taxing authorities?  Did they really send information back to the original issuer?

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I ought to know the answer to this but car electrics have never been my forte.  If your coil has + and - terminals then for a positive earth car + is earth and thus the wire goes to the distributor and - goes to the ignition feed, and vice versa.  All the A7 coils I have seen simply show SW or CB, not + or -.  But when Sevens changed from negative earth to positive earth in 1935 did the coils fitted have their terminals changed round?  If so how do I know if I have a post-35 coil or a pre-35 coil?  I know it's not a disaster to fit them the wrong way round but it does not produce the stronger spark if you get it wrong.  Or am I talking rubbish?

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I have recently acquired many boxes of prewar 
Meccano and am thinking of making
a scale Meccano A7 rolling Chassis. Perhaps1/8th scale?

Does anyone have photos or links that could be helpful.

Using this collection of Meccano I recently helped Jim Clark’s old school pupils
at Chirnside to 
Build four model cars in a day to mark the 50th Anniversary
Of his fatal crash at Hockenheim

Regards
Bill G

Hello All
I replaced the head gasket on my '37 Ruby engine last week, took it for a short drive to warm it up, and then 
re torqued the nuts to 18lbs on my return and all seemed well.
However, this morning I took advantage of a glorious morning and went on a 20 mile run but when I checked 
the engine I noticed a couple of small water bubbles coming out of the no.1 head nut between the stud and nut.
Could anyone please tell me what the problem is and how best I should tackle it if you wouldn't mind?
Many thanks in advance
Graham.

3 listings on Ebay selling on behalf of a family member, an Ulster, a Green and a Red Ruby, all been reported.

I find that I have some 7" brake drums without locating studs (but with correct sized stud holes). Is it a problem to use them???

What's the approximate rate for spraying my ( bare aluminium ) ulster body and mudguards ?