Nothing to do with punctuation. Do any of our revered suppliers keep lifting eyes or Ts to thread into spark plug spaces for raising  of engines or just cylinder heads? If none are to be found, when I ask one of the local small engineering shops I'll see what a small batch might cost, unless an immediate reply tells me another way to do it.

I'm considering changing my Ulster Rep windscreens from Brooklands to Auster type. What was the wood used under the original screens on Ulsters? I have seen a varnished wood that appeared to be similar to mahogany and also seen painted to match the body color. Was it ash as the body plywood material and was it varnished or painted?

Erich in the very hot PNW.

Hi All, me again and another problem!  Every day's a school day and thanks for all your help!

We just fitted the clutch together with some home-made locking washers (no thread-lock around at the time).  Upon offering up the gearbox and trying to actuate the clutch properly by the thrust bearing, the levers are almost impossible to push.  When reading the official guidebook, it says that the levers should be ~3/8ths from the edge of the casing, but ours are more like 7/8ths away.  If you put a LOT of force on the arms, you can *just* see them move, but it isn't right at all!

When bolting the clutch down, the levers draw into a position where they meet the thrust bearing, but they seem to have gone too far.  I've seen threads where people needed to add a spacer between the clutch and flywheel, but am unsure if this would 'fix' it?

Piccy below of their position:

Just a post from me to thank the forum for various assistance, via the board and PM that assisted me assembling my chummy so far. You know who you are, so thanks.

What has brought this on is that this evening I got her running and it moved under its own power, probably since the autumn of 1985. I've never seen it in one piece, let alone see it move. 6 weeks ago the car was only a bare rolling chassis and a engine on a stand. Plus piles of bits I had never seen assembled. 

Im not quite there yet, I'm waiting for some rubber for the screen and medallions to go on the headlights. And to fit the instruments but tonight has been a big breakthrough. Some brake adjustment is high on the list too. The maiden vouage around the farm was fun with none.

The engine running 

 https://youtu.be/O8QAsDiYr7E

And some pics of where I'm presently at. The car will be presented and used in what our hotrod chums call 'rat look until the the bodywork gets properly sorted

We are now unfortunately selling our 1930 RK Saloon, the RK is in an unrestored condition but is in very good solid state, and driving well, if you like your Seven as near original as possible this may be the Seven for you. Please E-Mail me for more information and photos, my E-Mail address is s.phillips001@btinternet.com

I have failed to print the details about the 30VEI carburettor from the website or via Google.. Can someone send me a PM with a copy ?
I need the exploded diagram in particular as I am not convinced my carb is complete, or some parts may not be correct...In particular the "Capacity tube size no 2"
Help is appreciated
David

Bit of a long shot but here goes:

Is anyone interested in some sort of swap? 

I have a '32 RP, on the road, reliable, tidy, everything works except fuel gauge. I'd describe it as 'an older restoration' which could mean anything to anyone. Suffice to say I'll go into detail if anyone is interested.

I'm looking for an older camper. Something like a VW t25, older Toyota Hi Ace etc. Must have a 'pop top' etc, reliable, on the road etc. Doubt I can stretch to older VWs.

Possibly money either way but rather not.

As I said, a long shot but who knows? I've yet to find out how to sleep in an A7. 

Michael
(PM me if interested)

Can anyone please tell me the overal height of an RP please. Am looking at a box trailer to buy so need to know if RP will fit. I've found all of the other dimensions but not the height. Thanks

I'll be the first to admit that I've not thought about this very deeply, nor scoured the test books; but my Ulster rep indicates approx half true road speed on the speedo.
It has a four speed gearbox, 19" wheels and 4.9 axle ratio.
 
Wrong speedo I presume?
Or is it possible to swap the drive at gearbox end and correct the reading?
Any thoughts welcomed. I have got used to 'factoring' the road speed but I thought it might be fun to watch the needle hit the end stop some day!

Two years ago, as a family, we took our 1928 Chummy from the North of Spain, over the Pyrenees and back up through France, see here: http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...5&cmd=show

Our girls (twins aged 7 and older sister, 9) are now too large to fit in the Chummy for longer trips so when deciding to tour France we knew it would have to be in the family Pearl (purchased by my mother on 1968 for £17 and used as the family hack ever since).  This car took my, now, wife and I on a grand tour of passes in 1999 (Galibier, Simplon, St. Bernard, Bonnette and the mighty Stelvio to name but a few) and also as a family of five to Switzerland and back in 2013 (see below):

   

Mechanical preparation

I built the engine in 1999 and, despite just over 80'000 miles since, it ran fine but was beginning to make a few noises and knocks.  I agonised over the decision to change it, I am very much in the camp of "if it an't broke..." but - knowing I would need every ounce of power to complete our journey I eventually opted to build an entirely new engine.

The new engine was built over a period of months with the following spec.:

Pheonix 1 5/6" splash fed crank (unmodified oil trough - "as supplied"), Austin rods (machined out to suit the crank by me), Seven workshop pistons and rings, standard camshaft (reground by Paul Bonewell), standard Seven Workshop valves and springs, standard radius cam followers, silicone base and tappet chest gasket, original Mk1 Whatmough Hewitt aluminium cylinder head, Seven Workshop head gasket, 1" s/d SU Carb (rebuilt by Steve Hodgson), super accessories exhaust manifold, Accuspark Dynamator and electronic distributor, Tony Betts semi deep cast aluminium sump, original 4-blade, export, fan (supplied by Bill Sheehan in 1978).  I also replaced the radiator built at that time (1978) with a new one (original style core) from Tony Wilder.

This engine was fitted and run for around 30 miles, although very quiet it had a tick and I really struggled to locate the cause of until I removed the cylinder head and saw this...

   

Removing the valve I expected to find it seized in the guide, it was not but this was clear...

   

I am not sure if the valve caused the crack or the crack seized the valve - it extended into the block so I made the decision to remove it (in situ) and machine up another block to fit - I did this over the space of an evening, finishing by torchlight...

   

The engine fired up quietly and I started my 1000 mile pre trip run-in - my troubles over (so I thought)!

After around 300 miles of quiet running I noticed a slight tinkle on tick-over and on removing the timing gear cover was horrified to find this...

   

Caused by the new gears supplied with the Dynamator the wear was significant and I resigned myself to another very long and frustrating day removing the camshaft and fitting another set of gears, if I look slightly deranged in the photo after I completed this task, it is accurate!

   

The Dynamator gear problem was resolved by swapping them out for original Austin ones, this proved wholly successful.

Throughout this rather frustrating time the voices in my head kept up their manta "if it ain't broke..." and I hoped my troubles were now behind me. Due to the problems I was only able to get 600 miles of run-in, pre trip, against my desired 1000. None the less I was happy with the 600 miles and now turned my attention to the rest of the car.