I see the FBHVC are asking about our cars and the introduction of E10 fuels here: https://paulc1.typeform.com/to/Bt7HKS

My own experience is that I used E10 exclusively for our tour around France this summer - the car ran perfectly on it for 2500 miles and returned 35mpg despite the weight it was carrying (GW of just under a tonne). I have used petrol containing ethanol in all the Austins since it was introduced and have never suffered any issues. 4 years ago I undertook a trip to Switzerland in the Pearl alternating 98 and E95 octane fuel each day. It misfired (almost pinked) on the 98 so much in the heat that after 4 days I reverted to E95 exclusively. I have asked several times on Forums if anyone can attribute issues in use of their A7 exclusively to the addition of ethanol but have yet to hear any replies. Plenty of worry about the potential issues but nothing, as yet, which is substantial. Has anyone here suffered something in their A7 which they can evidence back to Ethanol - genuinely interested?

The Green Book has a drawing of a very modestly lightened flywheel. I've seen some flywheels lightened in days gone by with a very gentle radius along the back. I've also seen the ones (from the 50's) with machined slots machined in the periphery leaving only enough metal to bolt on the cover plate. Lately I've seen flywheels machined to a flat disc of maybe 5/8" that use what appears to be an aluminium spacer to mount the clutch cover plate in the right position.

Has anyone weighed the various versions. I like the idea of the final version but wonder how much it really saves. 

Charles

I've had a look at the parts list (below) but can't identify which bits I may be missing.

I have play on (1) the steering wheel itself and (2) the ignition/gas plate is loose.

Both don't seem to tighten so I am suspecting bushes may be missing and I haven't got Platts catalogue to hand.
Could anyone diagnose what likely needs a shim or a bush in the event of parts not being easily replaceable please?

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Hi folks,  

I'm looking for a decent 1931 rear axle (ie long nose banjo) within a sensible distance of Bristol.  Has anybody got one for sale (happy to pay sensible money) ? Please PM me if you can help!

Thanks,

Damian G-T.

I have hardy spicer joints front and rear on my SWB Ulster Rep. The rear one had a couple of stiff spots so I ordered a new kit of races and spider from one of the cherished suppliers. With the Woodrow book, I thought the races would come out easily. Wow, was I wrong. After a couple of hours of fiddling and whacking with a brass drift, I got everything apart. The races were not rusty and I could see no reason why they were so tight in the yokes. One of the races had obvious wear spots from three or four needles. My question  is how tight should the outer races be in the yokes. Firm, so they don't spin, but it seems as if the yokes were machined out too tight. My other question is if the holes in the yokes are too tight, could that distort the outer races?

Erich in hot smoky Seattle.

Hello All
I am doing the rear hubs on my '37 Ruby axle and wondered if anyone could tell me what size the thin nut is that holds the inner half of the hub on please.
My largest Whitworth socket is 3/4" which fits the half shaft nut but I'll need a box spanner to do the thin nut or a deep socket.
Many thanks as always
Graham.

Hi All, I have a conservation project under way with the Chummy at present, dealing with a bit of corrosion between the wings and body. The car did not have wing beading/piping fitted, rather a black mastic if some kind, which looked suspiciously like bitumen gutter sealant to me! My question is should a 1928 tourer have beading between the wings, running boards and body?

And while I am on the subject of corrosion, any thoughts regarding powdery aluminium? The image below shows the back lip of the car, where steel tacks have been used under the aluminium finishing strip to fix the hood to the body. Not a good idea!

   

Thanks, John

I noticed that my back brakes were getting progressively more feeble and this is what I found:

On one side the linings had fallen completely to pieces and on the other side they were completely soaked in axle oil which had the positive effect of reducing the level of disintegration, but didn't do much for the braking.

Last year I relined the brakes and removed the hubs, filed off the high spots and replaced them with loctite flange seaer but no paper gaskets. Since then I have done Wiscombe twice, Prescott and about 500 road miles.

I see that there has been some discussion about keeping the oil/grease out of the brakes. The oil appears to be getting through the flange and not through the felt seal.  I plan to fit sealed wheel bearings, reinstate the flange gaskets with a smear of hermatite or similar and drill some holes in the bottom of the axle tubes. What is the  view of this approach?

Regarding the brake linings, these were the soft grey type and they appear to have split across the rivet heads. Possibly I clamped the rivets up too tight when I was fitting them and damaged the linings? I have another set which are made of a brown fibre with metal reinforcement and I suspect they may be a bit tougher? Has anyone come across this problem before? Is it worth getting bonded linings?

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Due to acquisition of a Nippy, I am reluctantly selling my RM saloon. First registered July 1931. Comprehensive rebuild completed 18 months ago. New Paint, re-trimmed in Moquete, correct front/rear wings/scripted wheels/Rist horn. New head lining and fabric roof covering. Rebuilt engine, new piston rings/ valves, crank bearings all good.updraught Zenith carb'. Re-chromed radiator shell and door fittings. Brakes relined with 1 1/4 inch shoes, all cables/cams/bushes good and correctly adjusted. Rebuilt dynamo and starter, correct distributor. The list goes on and on. Super to drive, for years I have run my RL Saloon with a late Ruby Cyl' head and side draught carb'. This RM runs just as well with original head and carb!  Lots of photo's and road test video available, I am not computer "savvy" enough to post the here.
If you are looking for a car that is fully sorted, contact me.
£8,000.00

Just joined your friendly little forum, so thank you for having me!

I have yet to get an Austin 7.  I have just finished rebuilding from the ground up a Land Rover series 1 and am looking to part with it sometime soon and relive my earliest motoring days with an Austin 7

My first car, back in 1962, was a one owner Pearl (JD5245) which cost me 45 pounds and suffered all sorts of abuse for 18 months until my lack of care and attention led  to its demise and the acquisition of yet another 7 and then several more!  I was known as the motoring cuckoo because of all the 7s I had in other peoples garages!  Last 7 was an Ulster (1154ME) which I sold for 70 pounds to finance our honeymoon!

Not sure what I am going to get when the funds arrive for my new purchase.  I do know it will be pre Ruby which I hope won't upset too many Ruby owners here, but I might go pre1931 but having said that, longer wheelbase might be nice.

I haven't done my profile yet, so, I live in Maldon Essex and will soon be 74, and have been tinkering and rebuilding cars for ages and the thought of an Austin 7 and the simplicity and lightness of everything is a big appeal.  I shall get an already restored car because I am about to lose my rented workshop but will have facilities to do servicing and upkeep.

Looks like I am probably boring you so I shall leave it there for now (and supper is ready!)!

Cheers

Ant