I must apologise to any participants of the LCES Summer Tour last weekend who were held up by my recalcitrant Chummy, invariably on the narrow steep hills you had nearly conquered, and to thank the kind enthusiasts and passing strangers who gave me uphill push-starts.  The diagnosed fuel starvation was caused by this brown, resin-like matter in the tank.

   

Local light-carists suspect a residue from the bio share of the unleaded that has settled out during the winter lay-over.  My own fault for avoiding the cold in my old age.
Any other thoughts on this annoying problem (not my old age) would be appreciated.
Robin

Good afternoon.

I feel like I am asking an obvious question, but: I keep reading about converting the Austin 7 brakes to the semi-Girling type to improve their efficiency. Although I have had a look to find out what the differences are, the articles that I have found only cover making the change: the do not seem to give any explanation of what the differences are.

Could someone either point me to a suitable article or explain how the semi-Girling and Girling brakes differ from other Austin 7 set-up? I assume that my 1935 Ruby will have non-Girling brakes.

Thank you.

Jamie.

Hi All

I thought it worth asking here as engines are engines to a point and many of us have non Austins.

I've got a 1953 Morris Eight Z Van. It's been off the road with due to engine trouble for a while now and I'm starting to loose all hope with it.

After years of relatively trouble free driving it cut out two years ago on the way home from an event and wouldn't start. After rebuilding the distro (with bits from Distributor Dr) we got it going. Then after a medium run on a warm day it starting missing on No.3 cylinder. This got worse until it wouldn't run on No.3 at all.

The head came off, new gaskett, valves ground, new valve springs, new carb gaskett and a fettle in the carb, new plugs, new leads etc. All back together, nothing from No.3. 

A compression test shows 100psi each in all cylinders, we've checked and the spark is getting through. Fuel seems to be about as the plug isn't dry when it comes out. 

I really can't see what can be wrong now, I've even put the old distro cap back on and the old leads to double check it isn't the new parts.

Any ideas?

I just recently purchased a new front spring shackle(U bolt) from one of the cherished suppliers. I have an Ulster Rep with a dropped front axle and a flat spring with seven leaves. When the shackle arrived, it was 1/4 longer than the existing ones, and the threads were 1/4 inch short. Fortunately I had a die and was able to add threads and then shorten the over all length of the shackle. I'm curious, are Ulster (rep) springs usually thinner than on standard cars?

Erich in Seattle

This is really silly ... for well over fifty years I have always referred to the Ruby-fronted 2-seater as an Opal. I had a 1936 example as my first car, and back in the 1940s my father ran a 1937 version; both were known in the family as Opals.

But I have just been looking through some of my brochures on another matter, and realised that Austins did not, in fact, call this model the Opal! The only reference to the 2-seater being referred to as an Opal is in the 1934 brochure 1212, at which time the model still retained the earlier chrome radiator; all subsequent brochures - 1290, 1292, 1472 & 1539 - give the model name as, simply, the 2-seater.

   

So, are they Opals, or are they 2-seaters? And does it matter, anyway 

Looking for a little advice here. I cannot shift the starter dog nut on my Magneto engined seven! Before I break anything expensive could I ask for guidance from those that have already been there.

Engine is out of car, stripped to the point of just crank and bearings in case, flywheel off but back on for the purpose of starter dog removal.

Will an impact wrench do it?

Cheers, John

I am restoring a 1936 A7 two-seater sport. It has a standard two bearing engine. It came fitted with an SU carburetor (1 inch bore at the manifold type 617p) and an electric fuel pump. The problem I have is that when the engine reaches full revs it fades after a few seconds and then picks up again only for the same thing to happen again. I assume it is to do with fuel starvation, but the pump functions well, so I am very puzzled.  Is it the wrong carb for the car, or could it be something else?
I have tried different needle sizes to no effect as well as altering float level etc.
 
Any ideas please…..?!
 

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My mechanic man has finally stopped prevaricating about what to change and what not to change and let me out of my box for a bit of fresh air. Said he was surprised by how well I seemed to go - especially my pulling power! No sure what he was going on about. 

                   

Well we are about a week away from 750 beaulieu again, so I thought I'd open a thread for anyone going, any stall holder letting people know they will be there etc.

For me ive had a couple of good weeks, last weekend I got to finish the panelling inside the museum, and hang some signs. After two years.
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Can anyone tell how to access the chrome trafficator switch on a 37 Ruby; the screws have come loose.

I have loosened the nuts (A) expecting to be able to undo the rod (B) and then unscrew  ©  from the horn button surround. However the rods will not move and I'm nervous about putting too much force on them. Could they be left hand thread ?!

Also what is the cardboard for (D). It's pretty manky.

Peter.