Thanks to the advice from members of this forum work on our Startin Van is progressing at a pace. The body is now in place, brake and clutch pedals accommodated in slots in the floor but one question remains - how does the accelerator pedal pass through the bulkhead/floor?
Does it enter through a hole or a slot like the brake and clutch?
Thanks in anticipation.

Regards from the creative county - Staffordshire

Stuart

Anyone know where I might get a crankcase front bearing lip repaired? It is a 1928 magneto engine.

Many thanks, John

Stripped my Ruby 750cc engine and found the oil baffles damaged, I phoned a Ruby engine restorer and he says he never replaces the baffles when he rebuilds these engines, it gives the engine better lubrication when they are not fitted.
What do people think, should I replace them or not

Hi All,

In removing the engine I found that the throw out bearing side of the gearbox is modified with two pieces of spring steel, holding the throw out bearing to its carrier. Not the most sanitary of installations, but it seems to work as it did apparently for some years prior to my ownership. I'm guessing the purpose is to help the throw out bearing retract onto its carrier. Is this a useful mod or something that was done to solve another issue? Keep it or lose it?

Erich in Seattle

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Some of the Lucas catalogues are in public domain (i.e. 400e) but B seems to be being sold on DVD... and I haven't come across an uploaded source anywhere. 

Has anyone found it, got it, or indeed put it into the public domain?

Trying to get to the bottom of the advance springs....

I have a '32 RN box saloon with front gravity tank (No pump).  I am thinking of fitting an 1 1/8"  Side draft SU carb.  The standard 22FZ is updraft and lies below the fuel level in the tank (Hence no need for a pump).  I see that most of the SU conversions use the later Manifold (1933 onwards) with an adaptor plate,  but that may not work without a pump to deliver fuel as the carburettor fuel bowl is above the bottom of the tank.

I am thinking of making a 90 degree adaptor to fit on the existing inlet manifold and using a 90 degree copper (plumbing) elbow to a new flange for the carburettor.  This would keep the SU fuel bowl below the bottom of the tank.

Would it work, or is the bore of the existing pre '33 inlet manifold too small? 

What would the gas flow be like adding an extra bend into the inlet manifold ?

Bob H

70C08 mag has a lovely pic of the above (taken by Mike Costigan, who has indicated he might have the original slide too!). 

In the background is a Nippy.. the quality isnt good enough for magnification from the printed mag, but I wonder if anyone has other pics that might identify Nippies from that show...?

Come to think of it, has anyone got any good pictures of Nippy line ups from ANY early shows like that, full stop!

thanks in anticipation...

I've seen a copy of my works drawing and an old query about the steering angle.
 Yes, there is a fold line where the angle is shown, and the angle is 37.5 degrees.
I hope that this helps.
Graham
NZ

...after a lengthy overhaul, finally fired up and went for a ride yesterday, a couple of pics to mark the long awaited occasion!
   

   

   

Somewhere on the old forum I read about someone who found Morris Minor series 2 springs good for the advance weight mechanism

I've just fitted some NOS lucas springs to a DK4A and there is slack before the springs start to hold the lead weights in check .. i.e. until they are about 4/5mm apart. Is this normal, or are these springs perhaps wrong? I'm thinking that if they dont retract to touching in the centre, then they can't be right... although they do look exactly like whats come off, but a bit more tight!

I also wondered what the purpose of the second hole in the little brass pivot retainer is for. Does that give an adjustment (i.e. using the one a bit further away) if springs get worn?

What other sources of springs have people utlised, other than Distributor Doctor?