Hi all, I’m in the process of rebuilding a differential that was very much the worse for wear.  My question is about the locking rings final resting place.  When I stripped the unit down the locking ring's flange sat hard against the torque tube (see photo 6236).  Now that I’ve installed new bearings the lip is a millimetre or so out from the edge (photo 6573).  I’m comfortable that I’ve tightened it up as best can be and if I tap the pinion or the flange end with a copper mallet there appears to be no movement.

My question is this; is it correct that in the first photo the locking ring was it’s "maximum" position and is the new location is ok?  My assumption is that the new bearings are slightly wider than the old ones that that’s what’s causing the gap to appear during the rebuild.  I guess I could pull it apart again and measure the bearing width but there is a risk that I’d damage the bearings during extraction so I’d like to avoid that.  First lesson for me is to be don’t just check bearing diameters, check widths as well.

Thoughts?

Steve and Tate

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My 1927 Chummy has records showing a few refurbs of its bacon slicer starter motor. It can’t have done that many miles to have the overhaul repeated. 

When I took ownership of the car, the starter would turn, but as if the battery was no longer serviceable. A fresh battery was no improvement. The switch contacts were clean and not burnt. The commutator was thick with carbon. Carburettor cleaner sprayed and the commutator cleaned and the brushes exercised. The starter now works with enthusiasm. 

Is it possible that there the starter motor brushes are too soft a material?

If so, who supplies appropriate brushes?

I have heard of others who have experienced similar issues. 

Roly

Hello people
Anyone know the max rebore size for 3 bearing Ruby ?
Regards
            Tim

   

Good day. Im a new Chummy owner but unsure of the date?

Is this a 1928 or 1929 Chummy?

   

Good day. I'm from South Africa and recently bought a Chummy. Can someone please assist in confirming the year, and maybe reasons for learning purposes?

Hello All

Could somebody please tell me what size tap I will need for the screws that 
hold the brake drum onto a '37 Ruby.
One of mine has damaged threads inside the hole and I'm hoping to save
it by running a tap through gently.

Many thanks as always

Graham

   

I have a pile of old c/a gaskets. These three aren't going to fit my 7s. Any help with identification appreciated... Anyone want them?

Hello All
In the post "Books and lubricants" Dave Mann mentions an oil causing the exhaust valves to stick.
Is this a common problem and what is the cure?
I think I have an engine that exhibits the signs, a regular misfire after a short run even after changing the entire fuel and ignition system.
Many thanks
Adrian.

   
I have a spare cast iron head with the following cast numbers,  single bolt water outlet.  What sort of engine was it from?  
Can anyone identify it please

Bob

3  11  8

1A 670

{  AF  }   ignore the curly brackets
{   2   }
{   T   }

I am faced with a slightly odd problem that I hope someone can help me with. I sent a completely 'dead' Blic Magneto to be rebuilt. On the casing, it has an arrow engraved on it indicating a clockwise drive. However, when it was rebuilt, I was told that it was orientated to an anti-clockwise drive ! In that direction of rotation, it has a brilliant spark. I wondered if anyone knew if there was a way to alter its internal configuration to suit clockwise rotation (? a different cam) or some clever gearbox device that I could fit externally to reverse the direction of its drive?