I'll be the first to admit that I've not thought about this very deeply, nor scoured the test books; but my Ulster rep indicates approx half true road speed on the speedo.
It has a four speed gearbox, 19" wheels and 4.9 axle ratio.
 
Wrong speedo I presume?
Or is it possible to swap the drive at gearbox end and correct the reading?
Any thoughts welcomed. I have got used to 'factoring' the road speed but I thought it might be fun to watch the needle hit the end stop some day!

Two years ago, as a family, we took our 1928 Chummy from the North of Spain, over the Pyrenees and back up through France, see here: http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...5&cmd=show

Our girls (twins aged 7 and older sister, 9) are now too large to fit in the Chummy for longer trips so when deciding to tour France we knew it would have to be in the family Pearl (purchased by my mother on 1968 for £17 and used as the family hack ever since).  This car took my, now, wife and I on a grand tour of passes in 1999 (Galibier, Simplon, St. Bernard, Bonnette and the mighty Stelvio to name but a few) and also as a family of five to Switzerland and back in 2013 (see below):

   

Mechanical preparation

I built the engine in 1999 and, despite just over 80'000 miles since, it ran fine but was beginning to make a few noises and knocks.  I agonised over the decision to change it, I am very much in the camp of "if it an't broke..." but - knowing I would need every ounce of power to complete our journey I eventually opted to build an entirely new engine.

The new engine was built over a period of months with the following spec.:

Pheonix 1 5/6" splash fed crank (unmodified oil trough - "as supplied"), Austin rods (machined out to suit the crank by me), Seven workshop pistons and rings, standard camshaft (reground by Paul Bonewell), standard Seven Workshop valves and springs, standard radius cam followers, silicone base and tappet chest gasket, original Mk1 Whatmough Hewitt aluminium cylinder head, Seven Workshop head gasket, 1" s/d SU Carb (rebuilt by Steve Hodgson), super accessories exhaust manifold, Accuspark Dynamator and electronic distributor, Tony Betts semi deep cast aluminium sump, original 4-blade, export, fan (supplied by Bill Sheehan in 1978).  I also replaced the radiator built at that time (1978) with a new one (original style core) from Tony Wilder.

This engine was fitted and run for around 30 miles, although very quiet it had a tick and I really struggled to locate the cause of until I removed the cylinder head and saw this...

   

Removing the valve I expected to find it seized in the guide, it was not but this was clear...

   

I am not sure if the valve caused the crack or the crack seized the valve - it extended into the block so I made the decision to remove it (in situ) and machine up another block to fit - I did this over the space of an evening, finishing by torchlight...

   

The engine fired up quietly and I started my 1000 mile pre trip run-in - my troubles over (so I thought)!

After around 300 miles of quiet running I noticed a slight tinkle on tick-over and on removing the timing gear cover was horrified to find this...

   

Caused by the new gears supplied with the Dynamator the wear was significant and I resigned myself to another very long and frustrating day removing the camshaft and fitting another set of gears, if I look slightly deranged in the photo after I completed this task, it is accurate!

   

The Dynamator gear problem was resolved by swapping them out for original Austin ones, this proved wholly successful.

Throughout this rather frustrating time the voices in my head kept up their manta "if it ain't broke..." and I hoped my troubles were now behind me. Due to the problems I was only able to get 600 miles of run-in, pre trip, against my desired 1000. None the less I was happy with the 600 miles and now turned my attention to the rest of the car.

I've posted a want ad for one of these but am not holding my breath. On my car, the arrangement at the front of the hood is incorrect and has a shaped wooden piece tacked to a flap on the front of the hood material. I am aware that this should be a shaped piece of metal that slips into a 'pocket' sewn into the hood. Can anyone put up a picture or 2 of what I need to replicate to do it properly. The arrangement on my car works tolerably well but the piece of wood has broken so now seems a sensible time to try and get it right...

thanks in advance for any help...

Hi All,

I decided today that I would paint the front shock on my recently acquired Ulster Rep. Easy, I thought, a couple of bolts and I could paint. What I found was not as was described in the Woodrow book. First, the OS center twin arm had its mounting holes for the bushed end, drilled to 1/2 inch. The NS arms were drilled to 5/8. The latter had been bushed while the former was not. Both fixing bolts were a sloppy fit. Further, I found two brass washers, the size of the friction discs, on either side of the mounting bracket. It would seem that the brass washers would allow easier movement, which would seem to be contradictory to what the shock and the friction discs are supposed to do. Or am I missing some mystical go fast theory? Also, some fiber washers were doubled and others were not there. But a total of eight, just not in the right places. Did Mickey Mouse build this?

Erich in Seattle

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Superalloy head - removed from my Ulster. Not warped. Usual wear to water outlets. Comes with water manifold, gasket and domed nuts. £180 plus carriage

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Longshot:

The front portion of the hood on a MkII Pearl Cabriolet is a 'pocket' with  spring steel(?) insert that 'engages' with the front portion of the frame connected to the body. On my car, that is missing and has been replaced with a piece of shaped wood - that has recently broken. I'd like to return it to the original spec and wondered whether anyone might have the steel insert in the remains of a car or could help me with any information as to exactly what I need to manufacture..

Thanks in advance..

Hugh

One of our club members has a Type 65, fitted with four speed gearbox and "bacon slicer" starter. The rear gearbox housing has been inverted, so speedo  drive is in similar position to three speed gearboxes. However, the speedo is the ribbon type as used on RP and Ruby. Can anyone suggest a supplier of a suitable cable ?

I saw a thread which had diverted from its origins, mentioning fitting the camshaft by holding the rollers in place with grease. I have found it far easier to hold the rollers in place with a tight elastic band (as well as grease). You can usually get it in place with all the rollers first time, then cut the elastic band.

Ebay  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-seven-...Sw2GJbXzh4  shows a long wheelbase body for sale if anyone is interested.

Hi, I have a new unused set of ARP L19 rod bolts for sale to fit Phoenix Conrods, these are
the fancy upgrade from the normal ARP 2000 bolts.
The thread is 5/16 UNF as per Phoenix Rods.Looking for £75.
Best Wishes Gene