I have just changed the gear box on my '30 RK and have something tapping the clutch mechanism so the pedal vibrates. This disappears when I disengage the clutch. Is there some adjustment that I have got wrong or does it look like an engine out again scenario. Welcome any help. Thanks.

On another thread, Ruairidh mentioned that he never fitted oil baffles ("tin lids") when rebuilding an engine. I always do, since they were fitted throughout the life of the Seven and, even allowing for the eccentricity of some of the features, I feel sure that they would have been omitted had they not been considered  necessary - or at least desirable.

What do the rest of you think?

When fitting new brake shoe endcaps, does everybody use the method described in the Woodrow manual, using 3/16" Whitworth countersunk setscrews to retain them, or is careful crimping over of the tips sufficient?

The reason I ask is that countersinking sufficiently for the head of the screw to lie flush takes quite a lot of material out of the endcap. And that's with going down to M4 - smaller diameter than 3/16 Whitworth.

I did wonder about simply drilling through the endcap and into the shoe with the same diameter as the original aluminium 'pip', and then filling with epoxy up to the face of the endcap, thus replicating the 'pip'.

Good morning.

I am a very long way off from starting to build a body for the Ruby chassis which I recently bought, but have started to think about the style and construction.

My initial thoughts were to use a welded, tubular steel frame with aluminium sheets formed over it. However, although I have access to the equipment elsewhere, I do not have the facilities to bend or shape the frame with any ease.

I was wondering, instead, about laminating some sheets of marine ply to a suitable thickness, rather like the structural ply beams which are used these days. I can then cut and plane the frame members from that: it would be easier to obtain than seasoned ash, easier to form using the tools which I already have and relatively light. The skin can then be formed and pinned over it in a conventional manner after treating with a suitable preservative. 

Is this a more common technique than I had realised and are there are known reasons why it is a daft idea?


Jamie.

I recently stumbled across a copy ot the Haynes Owners Workshop manual for the Merlin engine. An interesting photo was of mechanics lowering a block onto pistons. Presumably the vast number of workers already accustomed to this on their Sevens represented a signifiant wartime contribution!

A few car makes in the 20s and 30s had fixed heads so there was other scope for the method.

My father working alone always used this method; the original robust 5/32 rings assisted. I have used both; now many cheat by ommitting the baffles. I recall a work colleague telling how they spent an hour or so lowering a block; then dicovered they had fitted it back to front.

Perhaps surprising in view of the very high cyl pressures but Merlin pistons seem to have a 2nd skirt oil ring.

The VSCC are celebrating 80 years since their first Prescott meeting in 1938, this weekend.
As well as the usual brilliant Hill Climb action, and Pre War car park in the orchard, There will be a display of cars with significant VSCC Prescott history along with a few such cars competing.
More details HERE & HERE

I have not been able to find bump stops for a late model Ruby from the usual suppliers does anyone know if these are available somewhere?

Do you remember the times when users of this forum used their real name so we knew who we were talking to?

Hello,

I'm looking for some photographs of my Ulster in action. It's a red supercharged Ulster with the registration number UR7429 and was much campaigned by James Diffey and Barrie Clarke.

Ideally I'd like a picture of it at Prescott to use in a display before this weekend but would be really interested in any pictures of it.

Thanks
Richard

Hi All!

So last week we got the mighty 750 'Atom' running.  Not very well, but the bloody thing ran which we were absolutely elated by.  Video here, please excuse the lossy sound compression:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ztr1yomlxab37s...1.mp4?dl=0

Bad Compression

So talking of compression, fast forward to this week; The father and I were bolting the clutch onto the engine tonight.  All was going swimmingly until we started torquing the bolts on the clutch.  When moving the engine to get prime wrench access, i noticed a distinct 'hissing' noise when the engine was under compression.  As soon as the hissing noise stopped (~3 seconds) the compression was no longer there.  Leakage... 

We then performed a plugs-out, 12v starter, cold compression test.  I know they're supposed to be performed warm, but wanted some indication of a fault.  The results in PSI: 65, 65, 65, 70.   Damn.  We tried adding a spoonful of oil, and the readings came up +5 PSI.  I presume a freshly built engine should be in the 90~110PSI region?

The engine was fully re-built around 35 years ago with +040 pistons and has been in storage ever since.  I did notice that the cylinder bores were a little glossy but had faith that it would just work.  Do you guys think it needs a full overhaul again?

Coolant Leakage

I also tried a simple water loop to ensure the engine was water tight and boy did it fail!  Literally all 3 coolant manifold bolts/nut leaked!  Is there any magic cure to this short of PTFE tape on the threads?

Many thanks for any input!