Looking for a sliding roof panel for a 1933 Box 7 . Anything will do , and in any condition to enable me to take measurements and copy .

This article (below) is present in the mag in the title line. I'd like to get a better scan of the interior shot if anyone has an original and thinks it possible to improve on what is on the Cornwall website?
http://www.austin7.org/Road%20Tests/SWB%20Saloon/

The original must be in one of the archives but hasn't surfaced yet unless you can alert me to it!

(I'm also after trying to find LightCar Jan 24th 1930 for same; an RK review)

It says, pieces for sale 11 euros - I suspect its bits for sale from 11 euros.

Auction site in France

Thanks to the contact suggested on another thread, Lorna Mountford showed me some Swallow braid which I realised was similar to some R Saloon braid I'd just been emailed, so this might be of interest to other Austin owners; they are doing a re-manufacture run and further cost savings are still possible if more people come forward!

  1929 Swallow braid.jpg (Size: 18.33 KB / Downloads: 117)
  People can get in touch via info@swallowregister.org 
Cost estimates are dependent on length orders.  PRICES PER METER: 15m = £36 +VAT, reducing to £20+VAT for orders of 100m or more.  Swallows already have confirmed orders getting to a £27+VAT price 



(If you have a SWB with cloth trim - please send ME a pic - it might help solve current mysteries suggested by rafts of trim names in the ledgers...thanks Jon) 
 

I have just been looking through my spares box and found some spare diff carriers.
Two of them are different widths as in photos, one 2.75” the other 3” across the main body, the bolt lengths are also different.
The mating joints have different widths of metal.
Can anyone explain what cars they may be off?
   

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I ordered bonnet weatherstrip for my Ulster Rep from one of the cherished suppliers. I came and the profile matched the profile in Fig. 29 of Chris Gould's book. Unfortunately, it is vinyl, not rubber. So ordered another weatherstrip from another cherished supplier. This is rubber, but the profile is much larger than in Fig. 29 of the Chris Gould book. Can anyone point me to a correct rubber one? The Gould book says it is available from the "usual stockists".

Erich in Seattle

I have a problem with my RP, which boils its coolant after less than five minutes at a moderate tick-over when stationary.
 
The story so far:
 
In the past couple of years the car has been almost unused, clocking up only about 130 miles. In June I "borrowed" its carburettor to get the van to Beaulieu, eventually replacing it on the RP.
 
Taking it out on a test run, after five minutes I noticed oil pressure dropping to zero. A quick look under the bonnet showed a massive oil leak at the front end, couple with ominous bubblings and hissing from the radiator. After letting it cool down, I limped home.
 
Stripping the engine down, no obvious signs of damage, other than the oil leaks. No sign of damage to cylinder head or gasket. Big end, main bearings and everything else OK and running freely. Tooth missing on smaller timing gear - gears  replaced.  Block, head and radiator flushed out with garden hose - no obvious blockages.
 
Engine reassembled (silicone gaskets) and installed. Fired first time and ran well with no obvious leaks, then began to boil. Mixture, timing and everything else checked and satisfactory - mixture actually slightly rich. Water seems to be circulating normally
 
Any ideas? Is there a sort of "reverse Radweld" that might flush out an unsuspected blockage? Has anyone experienced anything similar?

I was thinking of fitting 1 1/4 brake shoes to my front brakes but concluded that although the linings would probably last longer, they wouldn't generate any more friction. Can anyone confirm whether they make any real difference?.

Looking at the picture of Damian's asymmetrical shoe I was wondering about fitting the wider shoes but trimming the linings down to say 3/4 of their usual length so that the shoe would be unlined towards the cam end. In theory you could maintain the same lining area (or maybe even slightly reduce it) but get more pressure due to the increased leverage. That is probably not an approved procedure but could be tested fairly easily if you don't mind experimenting and relining shoes a few times... In any case, my car has had the same front brake linings for 15 years and they are still going strong so wear doesn't seem to be a bit issue at the front.


Are there any other mods to get more pressure at the front without resorting to hydraulic or bowden brakes, such as using longer levers?

Is this the only way to make them oil tight?

http://www.immortal-gems.co.uk/

Appears to have been quite an original and straight car prior to the conversion.

I need a C35M brush plate, the circular spring retaining clip for the end plate of the dynamo that covers the dizzy drive gear, and a woodruff key for the dynamo drive gear end please. 07831 805455