I'm seeking some guidance about a slightly unusual situation regarding a registration number transfer. A double transfer, in fact.

Some time ago, I owned a Morris 8 and sold it after a while in favour of something else. The new owner kept it for a few years, but when they eventually sold it, the car went abroad. In order to prevent the complete loss of the original registration upon export, the foreign buyer suggested that they retain the number. This they did and simply put the number onto their modern car.

Fast forward to just a few days ago and I have kindly been offered the opportunity to buy the number from them, as they are in the process of selling the (modern) car that's currently wearing it. This idea is very attractive to me, as I have a Ruby that has worn an age-related plate since being dragged out of a barn 35 years ago, and I naturally like the idea of giving it a number that has been in my possession in the past.

The seller has offered to arrange transfer directly to the Ruby, which is fine, except that I am concerned about the possibility of unnecessarily losing the present age-related number in the process. As it was issued such a long time ago, I don't think it has non-transferrable status, but I'm not sure if it's possible to tell from the V5C alone. The other concern is whether there are any conditions to removing the present number from the Ruby and putting it onto retention in my name. Of course, I've been reading up about this at the DVLA website, but I'm still not really clear about the whole thing. I remember that in the past it was necessary for a vehicle to have an MoT before the number can be removed. If so, that could be problematic, as the car is presently not roadworthy, although it is taxed and insured.

Has anyone else had recent experience of a scenario similar to the above? Many thanks.

I have always been intrigued by the Birkett statement in the green book suggesting long, narrow bore 7/8" ID tailpipes were best. This old forum 2014 thread is worth re-invigorating:

http://pub25.bravenet.com/forum/static/s...8&cmd=show

Ray White's comments on replacing the large bore rear pipe of his Swallow with an 1" bore (and finding it improved) contrasts with Sandy Croall's observation that when his LWB rear pipe fell off, performance improved (it became akin to the SWB system).

Any more recent experiences from those experimenting with standard manifolds and engines? Were Austin exhausts overspecced in diameter?

Would anyone object to an Austin 10 question? It's just that I'm struggling to obtain information via the relevant club and forums, and feel that the Austin 7 folk are more inclined towards technical discussions, so might be better placed to advise. I do own a couple of Sevens, by the way!

The car is a 1934 10/4, a late chrome rad model. I'm nearing the end of a clutch rebuild, but there's one point of detail that isn't quite right and I don't want to put it all back together until I'm 100% happy with it all.

The three clutch toggle levers have hardened steel pins, similar to a 7, but of smaller diameter. The ones on my car are badly worn and must be replaced. These are tricky things to get hold of, but I did find one supplier. The original pins have a radius on each end, which ensures that there are no edges that would protrude from the toggle lever post. This is important, in order to prevent any possible fouling of the recesses of the pressure plate. However, the replacements lack the radius, although they do have a slight chamfer. I've tried putting one of the pins in my lathe and using a small sharpening stone to form a radius, but the metal is just too hard to make any real progress.

One suggestion is that I try making a set myself, out of silver steel. However, I'm not sure that my lathework skills are sufficient to get the pins just right, plus I've not worked with silver steel before. I presume that heat treatment would then need to follow, for hardening, but I have no prior experience of this.

Any advice, please? I've attached a couple of pictures, one showing the new and old pins, and the second illustrating how the edges of the pin-ends protrude slightly from the post.

Many thanks.

   
   

What's with the "MyBB" thing?
Does it need to take up quite so much of the screen?

As of today I have difficulty with login as the user name / password box appears just off the bottom of (my) screen at lower left and I can't see or therefore click on the fields to complete them. I managed to work around it by going full screen but hopefully that's not the future...?

The Source book references an Army order in 1928 for 65 GE Cups with black enamelled
radiators shells and military 19” wheels.

Are there any survivors or even photos of 
these unusual military vehicles.

Funny to think that the Germans were
Doing tank manoeuvres with their BMW “Austin’s” not long after!

There is a photo in the Gallery but it looks to
be a civilian one with its soldier owner having a wheel change.

Bill G

Last weekend we organised a long day adventure taking in some 150miles of NZ back country roads, over half were little used gravel lanes and the highlight being one 10 mile stretch along an elevated ridge with sweeping views both sides of the road cumulating in a spectacular view of the Kaipara Harbour. Somewhat different to what our UK owners will be used to, here are a couple of pictures to wet your appetite should anyone want to plan a trip here for the 100th.

   
   
   
   

  Nippy Kaipra Hills.jpg (Size: 55.42 KB / Downloads: 414)

  Kaipara Hills Road.jpg (Size: 40.02 KB / Downloads: 413)
   
   

A friend who has a steam traction engine also has a few other bits... he organises a "come in what you have"weekend at a pub just outside Harrogate. This time he brought the car his wife used to take the kids (now in their late 20's) to the village school..a "dans son jus" 16/6

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Hello
Any idea what the thread size is of the window winder retaining screw.
Regards
           Tim

I am making a slow start on my Seven, starting with the indicator switch: an odd choice, perhaps....

I have fitted a replacement operating arm and knob, both of which had been removed at some stage. However, I cannot work out how it is meant to cancel. Although the thing is a bit stiff, it is freeing up slowly, having been sprayed with dry-lube. Before I dismantle it any further to clean the contacts and clear out the grease that is in it, I should like to be a bit more aware of how it is meant to operate.

Can anyone explain, please?

Jamie.

        hi as a proud new owner Austin ruby ,could someone advise please,  the paintwork is showing cracks  very fine ,although the paintwork is shiny   i will try and upload a picture,