austin.jpg (Size: 92.07 KB / Downloads: 716) [attachment=3671][attachment=3671][attachment=3671][attachment=3671][attachment=3671][attachment=3671]Hi there.

Im thinking about buying an Austin Seven, but i have absolute no experience with these cars so i kindly ask for your advices. I have been offered an "Ulster" replica. According to owner its a 1927 with full alloy body. Owner do not know when car received the alloy body but its +40 ago, and body work looks to be carried out by a pro (nice fit etc). According to owner Its a later 3 mainbearing 13 hp standard engine. Car is in very good condition with good paintjob, no corrosion and works/drive well. So far i have only receved 1 picture (he will send more). What is a fair price to pay for such an ulster replica, asumed the car is in great condition?

Br Per

Hello
What’s the way to check whether my Ruby has 2 or 3 bearing crank.
Not sure if all Rubies are 2 bearing ?
Regards
            Tim

Looking at the bottom of the listing page, I notice that we now have 999 registered members on this illustrious site.

So the question is, who will be member 1000 ????    

Having struggled to get my clutch right, and succeeded, I thought I would pass on one or two things I have learned the hard way.
If the slots in your cover plate are worn where the toggle bears against it is worth restoring with 1/4 bsf grub screws, flush with bottom of slot — ie as per original. If this is done and new pattern toggle levers used you will have a good clutch. 
I suggest you don’t use the little rods under new toggle levers as it sets the levers far too high. I suspect that those who use the rods to good effect are making the best of old toggle levers.
The new pattern toggles are good I reckon but the fulcrum pins will not fit. I used an 8mm drill to run through. This is not kind on the drill bit as the toggles are case hardened but it works.
( note, my new levers came from Jamie and I don’t know if other cherished suppliers have ones with a different profile ) 
I hope this may be useful and save some midnight oil somewhere.

Charles

I saw this Brooklands replica(?) at Newby Hall a few weeks ago in among the Austin7s. It struck me as the most interesting car in the Austin section as I'd never seen one before and thought it was just a special.
Today, someone I had met at a steam gathering called in with a Bentley wing needing a straightening after a minor prang. He had the wing in the pick-up and I wanted to see its brother, the car was just down the road in his shed 200 yards away come and see...

There under a cloth was the same Brooklands special.

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The Chummy of Judy and Alan Fairless next to a certain Ruby whilst a Model A crew wrestle with their OS map

Saturday before the Bank Holiday saw the lanes of North Shropshire with cars looking for clues in the Inter-Register  Scatter Rally. Three Sevens were entered and four took part, Team Bradshaw setting off in a Ten but quickly going back to change it for their Chummy.  A certain modest chap took 3rd overall in the Ruby, and Chris and Colin Cooke came sixth, also getting the long distance award for coming all the way  from Towcester up to Cockshutt in their 1932 Box Saloon.  Unfortunately only two of the Sevens had signed in as PWA7C, allowing Model A Fords to take first place and get more points in the arcane calculations for the Inter-Reg Shield. What was interesting from a Seven point of view was the number of Seveners  involved ;  triallist Richard Houlgate the winning navvy in a Humber,  other distinguished triallists Andy Fox and Jon Yeeles also competing. Jim Wood was scruting, but having checked fire extinguisher and throttle return spring was capable of helpful mechanical discussions and hints from his work with Don Rawson.

Certain persons on the VSC Forum have been muttering and deriding 1930s saloons as "grey porridge." An event like the North Salop Scatter shows how central Austin Sevens and their owners are to vintage and PVT motor sport. We're not very good at polishing and posing in paddocks, but we spend a lot of time in narrow lanes or on muddy hills, that is when we're not marshalling or organising.

Have spent most of this afternoon struggling to get gear box back into 37 Opal ie from the inside of car.   ( who needs a gym)
I’ve got a couple of 5/16 whiworth taps and am thinking I might fit these to the top stud holes on crankcase to act as a guide. I don’t have any suitable bolts. Any tips please on spline alignment— is it best to have mating groove on top or bottom?

Charles

Please does anyone know the diameter of the standard flywheel across the starter ring teeth? 

I am trying to improve performance on my sports engine by changing out the jets in the 30VE1 carb and also playing with the timing. I am wanting to work out where I am in degrees BTDC.

Original carb set up was Main - unknown(!) and Compensation 60, so not having a 90 I am trying an 85 main and a newer 60 compensation jet (haven't got a 55). Slow running stays the same at 60.

Original timing was set up as 1.25" BTDC fully advanced and I have subsequently advanced this a further 5°, so am tipping I'm now around 18° BTDC fully advanced, but want to check this.

Many thanks

Colin

I am going to bin the St. Christopher medallion attached to the dashboard of my Tourer and replace it with a post-it note saying WWRD - which stands for What Would Ruairidh Do.

This powerful mantra is to be used instead of my usual prayer 'perhaps that rattle/stagger etc. will go away if I ignore it'

Finding one Hardy Spicer joint on the Ulster rep a bit lumpy, I purchased two new spiders from one of the cherished suppliers. As I had reported earlier, the old races were a very tight fit, so I eased the openings to allow an easy press fit. At the GB end, everything went together smoothly. At the rear end, assembly on the prop yoke seized the spider. I checked the old spider and races against the new one. The old one, a GKN, measured 2.424 across the races, the new one measures 2.435 across the races. How can I fix this? Had thought about trying to widen the yoke slightly, but that would mean the holes would not be parallel. The keepers only barely fit. Machining the ends of the races does not look like an easy or effective solution. Why the difference and how do I solve this? Should I go back to a fabric and cardan block?

Erich in Seattle