During the overhaul of the distributor of my 1936 two seater project I came across a couple of "mods" which caused me some amusement, as far as I was aware the car had been put away 19 years ago in a more or less running state. the more I look the less likely that seems.

When i first took the distributor out of the dynamo housing the drive gear pin looked a little odd.



It would seem that some time in the distant past somebody did a bit if improvisation.



Galvanised roofing nail to the rescue! I guess it did the job tough, maybe one of those "get you home" temporary fixes which became permanent.

Also on removing the base plate the advance weights had been reassembles incorrectly.



Both easy fixes i guess but it does make me wonder what other gremlins are lurking in the as yet virtually unexplored mechanicals.

Both the distributor drive gear and the dynamo to distributor drive gear are badly worn, can somebody please suggest the source of a pair of good quality replacements?



Many thanks,    ..... Phil.

   
my Cozette No 4 delivers only a maximum of 2 psi unde only at revs over 4000 min-1
How can I tell if he is no longer delivering or licking pressure?
I dare not dismantle and open it
the pressure gauge is recalibrated.

Perhaps someone can help me?

Thomas

I read an article by Andrew Bird in an old PWA7C mag, where he came across what turned out to be an original Ulster box. The markings were  X-nnn-X or something like that, with similar, matched, on the gears and I've seen same on early 65 boxes - which I'd wondered whether signified factory replacements.

Can anyone give any more information on what such markings defined - are they sports only, or have people found such markings with standard boxes? On what sort of age range? 

thanks...

Just wondering if this found a new home today and at what price.
I understand it was not a factory built car, and not a replica either, nevertheless it looked lovely,I 
would have liked but have too many other projects and cars.
I definitely would have bought the one at HVA Auctions but the price was so talked up here
that I didn't bother to go and was surprised when it went for £12000

I have been asked to post the following note regarding Peter's funeral from John Debens, PWA7C:

Dear All,

I thought I would let you know of the Arrangements for Peter's Funeral, received this am.

The Funeral will be at St Laurence's Church, Church Stretton, on Tuesday 13th November at 1pm, followed by the Crematorium ( family only ), and then a get-together at The Ragleth Inn, at 6pm.

Flowers are from family, but any donations people may like to give should be for The Air Ambulance Ambulance Service, which was very dear to Peter.

As many will know, Peter particularly disliked fuss, and would not want folk rearranging anything .. however, Sue has advised that maybe saying a little prayer or raising a glass or two would be very nice.

Thanks, John.

Jim writes:

“I have just four re-manufactured 1907 Austin signs which are available from me at £155 each (plus P&P). Would it be at all possible to put a note to this effect on the A7F's website please? (Photo attached) .i am still finding it difficult to access the website!”

   

These are the door check straps that were fitted to the car.
Held to the wood "A" post with pins and running through the steel grommet that fits into the steel A post.
With a metal rod to act as the door check and somehow the curved plate on the A post must have a purpose in holding/stopping the metal rod, but it seems a bit unnecessary as the rod would act against the A post anyway!
Am I missing some fiendish purpose for the curved plate....it is the same both sides.
The rod doesn't seem to latch into it.
David

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Just a question re chassis number location. My RP chassis is stamped as per normal by the left hand rear engine mounting bolt hole,but whilst doing a clean up I discovered another stamping on the right hand chassis rail ending just by the rivet for the front casting. Has anyone seen this on theirs? The stamp format/font look the same as the ,worn, original.

Dear all,

greeting from Italy! I am restoring an Austin Seven special and i would like to do 12V conversion.

I would like to keep the original Dinamo, as it has been rebuilt freshly, but what about the voltage regulator should i use?

If i recall correctly, i had read somewhere about the use of an electronic "modern" voltage regulator 12V to install instead of the original
unit that should fit.

Any suggestion or "way to do it" would be greatly appreciated

Thanks to all the contributors!
Emanuel

This has been discussed before but for those who don't remember my friends Joss, Richard and Ian (who posts here of course) were involved with building a replica (in a VERY short time) of Bruce McLaren's Austin 7 race car for the film recently made.

That body has ended up in Southwards car museum just north of Wellington so I went up to see it last weekend. They put it onto a chassis to display it. I think it has a big 7 front end on it but something looks really wrong. It's like they bent the axle in the middle so the wheels have the wrong camber!

I am sure Ian can fill in more details about the story of it.









Simon