My Ruby needs a new set of tyres, I've currently got a set of Armstrong tyres which are getting near to the minimum thread depth 2 to 3mm. and they've been on for approx 10 years so another good reason to replace tham

So which are the best make of tyres to fit and where do I get the best deal? 

I have found Longstone, Waymaster & Excelsior and all have completely different tread patterns, so for general road use which way should I go?

Dave, in soggy cumbria

Hi
Having got my Ruby running after a while I managed to break a half shaft when manouvering on the drive.
After a few small battles and appropriate words the axle is removed and dismantled.On fitting a new half shaft I found that it tends to "click" slightlywhen rotating in the satellite gears.
I am going back to where I got the halfshaft on Thursday with a view to trying out some others to see if they run more smoothly like the old (worn) shaft.
If other shafts seem the same ,do I fit it and let it run in or should I use engineers blue and file down any high spots on the shaft gear.
I would be grateful for any opinions from anyone of experience of replacing shafts.

This may be old hat to a few of you, but I have recently found that the online DVLA vehicle check has been improved by dropping the need to enter the vehicle make.  This used to be problematic for old vehicles, where some odd things had been put down in the past for the maker such as "Austin Convertible" which would not show up if Austin were searched for.   Now, simply entering the registration is enough.

In addition, the MOT history check only needs a registration and no Chassis Number or VIN is required.

Tips on making a magneto engine as oil tight as possible would be appreciated.
No idea too simple or too stupid. 

Thanks


C

Came across this clip today

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnUjk8Y-yac

I have been looking for a picture of the eccentric disc setup tool for Austin C/W and Pinions - I know I have seen it somewhere but cannot find it.

Does anyone have a picture they are willing to share please?

Hi All

Having discovered our propshaft was the wrong length in that it was lock solid between the fabric joint and the rear flange I did a bit of investigation as I was under the impression there were only two lengths long and short for the the long and short chassis.  I discovered that there is a long one for the long wheel base and three for the short wheel base cars.  The below is from the Austin Handbooks and the Austin Index Pages ref to the A7 Companion for info.

1926 Handbook 353j Propshaft Part BP28 Three speed box speedo on pulley, Type 1 axle (A7 Companion).
1928 Handbook 353w Propshaft Part BP28 and BP73 speedo on back of three speed box (I guess shorted due to longer gear box), Type 1 axle (A7 Companion).
1930 Handbook 670c Propshaft Part BP73 speedo on back of gearbox, Type 2 axle (A7 Companion)
1931 Handbook 670d Propshaft Part BP93 Increased length due to torque tube change in axle type (this is noted in the index pages), Type 3 axle (A7 Companion).
1932 Handbook 888 Propshaft Part BP93 and BP118 the latter for the long wheel base cars, Type 3 axle (A7 Companion)
1932 Handbook 888a Propshaft Part BP118 long wheel base cars, Type 4 axle “D” (A7 Companion)

       

Measuring from the fabric end of the propshaft to the middle of the cardan pin I believe the order is as follows.

BP28 original propshaft 20"
BP73 reduced for speedo on rear of gearbox 19.5"
BP93 does anyone know what this propshaft measures?
BP118 26".

We now have the correct propshaft but curious as to the length of BP93.
Thanks

Douglas

Hi all

I have decided to replace my rusty number plates and purchased a replacement from a cherished supplier. The replacement does not match my current plates as the indentation on the edge is not as deep and is not flush with the back.

Who is currently doing the best replacement number plates

Thanks

David

Hi,

Firstly thank you to those who assisted with my post regarding the brake light switch. Much appreciated.

Some advice regarding the petrol gauge fault would be great.

When switching the ignition on the needle lies dormant. When switching the ignition off the needle jumps momentarily. I have replaced the fuse as the original looked past its prime. There is power here confirmed by a 
functional brake light, both services using the same fuse box. The trafficators are disabled?

All help greatfully accepted.

Thank you.
Regards,
Paul t

   

   

Over the years on the old thread I often asked questions about Grasshoppers, even when they became politically incorrect! The driving force behind this was to build a replica.

Well, I can now share a couple of pictures of the car, which will hopefully be sufficiently finished to do the PWA7C winter trial in December. My Father has built the body, with my assistance when I have been able, many hundreds of hours have gone into it so far. Dimensionally it is quite an accurate copy of BOA 59. The rad cowl is a temporary GRP one, to be replaced with one made in brass and plated, in due course.

Mechanically it is fairly standard Austin Seven, with a mildly breathed upon engine, for the time being. The intention is to build a blown engine in time (anyone know the whereabouts of a Centric 125?) The colour is an attempt to match the paint found on an original component in an undisturbed state, its not quite right, but not that far off.

Thanks for all the help received so far from forum members and the wider A7 community.

Stuart Palmer