Hello
Just about to part strip my 1936 Ruby ARR
ENGINE Has the brass set pin above the web so expecting 3 bearing crank ?
It has the LC head is this correct for that engine.
Or was it possible to have either head originally?
Is their much advantage to the HC head ?
Thanks in anticipation 
Regards
           Tim

This unusual Australian built Coupe appeared on Facebook today with the text:

"Thanks for adding me this is my Dads 1932 Austin 7 ,he has had it since the 60s! Believed to be built in Melbourne by James flood coach builders and originally green , if anyone could help with some extra history on it would be good hope its of interest to you guys "


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Hello chaps,

as I mentioned in another thread, here is where I/we want to start.

We decided to start rebuilding 2 chassis to a good rolling condition. As there are different ways of how to get through a project, we choose to start with the chassis for some reasons.

First of all is to see what parts we already have, what parts we need to repair or recondition, what parts we need to built and for what we have to pay buying new stuff.
As I said before, no animals or bodyshells were harmed for our project. We gatherd quite a bit of parts and this is where you guys come in. Due to the attachment-restrictions of 8 per post I´ll start with a few replies here with pictures of what we got. Right now there are 5 chassis in more or less good conditions. After going through a few spare parts lists we have a good clue on what parts we have, but not what kind of frames. They all look kind a similar with a few or less changes in the details. It would be nice if you guys could help us on identifying what exact kind of chassis we got and maybe from which years they might be.

Cheers, and thanks for your help in advance and again sorry if the grammar or spelling is somewhere wrong

Rob

Last winter I rebuilt a 4 speed "3 Syn" gearbox for the Ruby - new bearings, intershaft bush, balls and springs etc. and refitted it expecting all the nasty noises to have gone. All quite successful apart from a loud persistent rattle /hammering sound on the over-run in top, especially above 45 miles an hour.

I replaced it with another rough old gearbox as a test but this makes similar rattles.

The engine and gearbox are out for other reasons so I've taken the top off the rebuilt box and had a poke around. All I can find is a fair bit of play sideways in the selector forks (in other words they swing on the selector rod a little more then I would like). They make the right kind of noise so I suspect these are the culprits.

Anyone had similar problems? Anyone know what the clearance between fork and gear should be? Should I change them?

Incidentally I'm about to change the propshaft as this has more slop in the splines than I would like but I now think this is unrelated.

Peter.

Can somebody advise what length Speedometer Cable I need for the 1932 Austin 7 RP and where to buy it.
Thanks.
Smiley.

HI,

My name is Mark Forster, although I have been involved in classic (mainly 60's) cars for many years I have just taken the plunge & bought a Cambridge bodied Special for my Son Adam who will use it for VSCC events.

As I am sure you appreciate, starting afresh with a totally new model & era is a bit daunting, so I hope you'll be kind to me.

In the meantime, here's a picture of Adam in "The Hogstow Special" this weekend at Saltburn Trials.

Hello you guys wherever you are.
Just wanted to introduce me to the community. I hope you excuse my poor english, didn´t pay enough attention back in the days in school.
I´m Rob from Cologne, Germany. 
Reason for joining this nice and interesting board is an upcoming restoration/recreation/individual styled project of 2 or 3 Austin sevens...
As I´m "only" 33years of age, working on the projects with a friend who is also in his 30ies, I´m sure there is a big lack of knowledge to the experienced guys here. But we´ll do our very best. 
Having some expierience in building an Austin 12/4 "special" and for 6 years a participant of the IAJ in Beaulieu we now want to give the sevens a try.
We started up with a lot of pictures and spare pars list to get some background knowledge in the different types of axles/engines/steering/brakes/diffs and so on and on and on.

Looking forward to post here a thread where the progress can be seen. As I´m working as a cartwright/coachbuilder among my job as carpenter, I can assure everybody that for our projects no bodyshells have been cut off or damaged as there have been no bodyshells with our parts.


In the next days I´ll add mor pictures to let you know what we´re going for. There are also some questions we have, unsure about some types of chassis we have. Quick question up front: The traverse in direction of movement with the big holes in it, i assume on the rhd-chassis they´re mounted off centre to the right. is it right that the lhd models have this traverse mirrored on the other side?

This is what we did with the Austin 12/4. Actually it is now already coverd in fabric, except for the alloy pieces, painted in blue and the bonnet in alloy.
   

I hope to hear of you guys when questions occur and also if someone brings his seven to the continent, stop by in cologne and we´ll have a nice beer.

So long, 
cheers 
Rob

Date: 10-09-2018

Midshires Group Event 13th. September

MIdshire will be holding a meeting starting from the White Horse at 7 p.m. passing through Cosby, Huncote and Stoney Stanton to Stoney Cove. The route passes 7 pubs whose names will be used to work out a famous person in the Austin 7 world. Members can either start from the White Horse or meet at Stoney Cove ( LE9 4DW ) at 7.30 p.m. Food and refreshments are available from the Nemos Bar. We hope to see you there. Sorry for the late post but I have been away .

Hi all,
 
Just looking for any thoughts on wheel sizes from the learned out there.   My son and I are currently rebuilding a 1929 Hope bodied Austin (photo attached) in Australia with the intention of taking her on some endurance runs.  The first trip will have us going over a fair amount of gravel roads with some softish sand underfoot in some locations, it’s about endurance not speed.  We have six wheels all in varying states of disrepair and the intention is to have new rims pressed and of course new spokes fitted.  The current crownwheel / pinion is  a 8/42 and the available gear box is a 4 speed (not got in to the guts of that yet). 
 
I understand A7’s had 16”, 17”, 18” and 19”wheels and I was planning on going larger with the idea being that a larger wheel is more rubber on the road, and better for cruising  but maybe that will make the slow speed stuff more difficult?
 
Any thoughts on the size of rim we should go for? 

Thanks in advance

Steve and Tate

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Browsing though what's on offer with the several respected specialist, I've come across a choice of cyliderheads that are supposed to enhance performance: 
-  Ricardo head (out of stock at the moment)
-  Alta head - Brough Superior spec (either cast iron or alloy)
-  Nippy / Ulster head (iron)
-  Whatmogg-Hewitt head (alloy / aluminum)


I'd like to know what these heads have to offer in different aspects (apart from the obvious price differences) and what further changes may be needed when combined with other inlet and exhaust manifolds and a single 1 1/8 SU carb (i.e. ignition advance/retard; fuel mixture etc) ;  no search engine has propped up any useful information (even the posts on the old forum I've found are not conclusive).