This looks to be far too good to be broken up:

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1066962


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... but the advert clearly states the sale is for the body only 

I have replaced the silent block bush on my Ruby today.
I originally thought this was a straightforward press out old / press in new job , however as is usually the way , I ended up having to remove the torque tube assembly .
I very carefully checked the shims upon removal and was surprised to find 3 shims at the top but only 2 at the bottom !!
I have reassembled in the exact way but was wondering if the mismatch in shim numbers may cause problems ?
Thanks
Joe.

Could I ask if anyone has had any good results with the silicone seals that are available for the 
tappet chest covers please?
My 3rd attempt this year with using the original type cork gaskets has failed once again.
Rightly, or wrongly, I have always had to trim them using a craft knife to fit them into the cover
and have repeatedly had to straighten the cover to achieve a flat surface but still they don't stop 
the oil seeping out, usually in the bottom corners.
Any suggestions or full proof methods will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Graham

Advice needed please regarding the removal and replacement of the fabric coupling on my 1928 Chummy. Woodrow says undo the three bolts securing the propshaft to the coupling and move the propshaft backwards to clear the bolt heads. Ha! What do I do when there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the bolts? With the propshaft all the way home in the U joint I still need a good 1/4 inch to clear. I’m thinking ease engine and gearbox forward slightly?

Just a thought, the car is light, stripped out at the moment and sitting high on its suspension. Would that make a difference?

Thanks, John

Someone posted this scan on the old site, at the time a high-res version was not available and the dimensions are not reliably readable. Does anyone know if a better scan now exists? I've checked the A7CA archive but no tech dwgs there.

Yes, I have the scrap views which were posted with it. Also the much clearer 1 1/8" crank dwg.

It's a fully readable complete 2- or 3-bearing 1 5/16 crank dwg. that I seek.

Thanks.


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Does anyone have any suggestions for revitalising the finish on plated fittings, such as door handles, other than replating, replacing or living with them?

Regards,

Jamie.

I am no expert, but somehow I doubt that this is an original part.

By    

Jamie.

Were the boards backing the rexine (other finishes are available!...I wish) trim in the late 20's millboard, thin 3 (?) ply or hardboard?
I discovered possibly original (or first re-cover!) Rexine under the relatively thick vinyl on ply board on the doors. I have binned the vinyl & cleaned up the rexine which is not in bad nick. It appears to have been painted black as there is some of what is the original mid-blue showing through on the reverse. The ply is covered on the reverse with a very thin "cheap" cotton material in black.The door boards now fit under the aluminium finishing strip.
The rear quarter panels are hardboard covered in vinyl and the wheel arches simply vinyl cut, stitched & glued in place. There were the remains of a few bifurcated rivets ( 1/8", almost like old fashioned paper staples) still in the wheel arches which probably held the wheel arch trim (was it rexine covered ply again?) in place ....and let the water in no doubt!
Do I cut new rear quarter boards from ply & refit the (relatively thick ) vinyl, or is there a thinner alternative?
I remember a couple of years ago buying (in France at a market) what they called "American Cloth" tablecloths, very thin & similar to rexine, but not very suitable patterns!

I've met John a few times and he gave me some good advice about his 12V conversion to go alongside the Bristol A7 Club webpage.  I'm currently trying to get my car finished off, if only to get it running enough to drive round the garden.  I'm unemployed so a new 12 volt kit is out of the question.  I have everything else in 12 volts available from Morris 1000s so I'd prefer to avoid the cost of equipping with 6 volt bulbs etc.

I've got a very late C35 dynamo all cleaned up but wanted to check the info out before I fire the car up again.  At the moment I think that the 3rd brush has to be removed and an added cable strung between the screwed terminals of the old 3rd brush and the earth brush which is shown in Woodrow as "Negative (earth) brush".  The 2 other brushes remain exactly as Austin designed them?

The mathematics mentioned by John don't seem to add up.  1.6 Ohms plus 3.4 ohms would be 5 ohms.  Am I right in aiming for 5 or for 6 ohms?

Lastly, I can find the F and D terminals on the control box but how do I ensure I have the righ terminals as they come out of the dynamo itself?  Mine has a block with 2 wires held by grub screws.

Many thanks

Rob Thomas

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I have fitted a big 7 front axle on my Nippy chassis.  I need to put weights on the front of the chassis to load the front spring to normal running position so I can check where the radius arm mount will come so that I can fix it to the cross member then measure the castor using 5/8" rods through the king pin eyes.  This will be to see if a wedge is needed between spring and chassis.  
Does anyone know what the weight of a big 7 engine and gearbox is?  I will probably use sacks of coal on planks as the main weight to start with.
The actual engine being used is a BMC A+ with Toyota T50 5 speed box.
OK you are going to ask why not just mount the A+ engine and take it from there? Yup I think that is what I must do then add a bit of weight for the body/rad etc.

There that is age for you, talk to yourself and the answer eventually pops up.


Dennis