The AD Chummy has an updraft T24 Carburettor. I have stripped it & cleaned the muck out, checked the jets are the recommended ones & put it back on with a new gasket. The car started well, but will only run with the choke fully out!
It will rev a bit and even tick over like this, but this is not a good long term plan!
No clouds of petrol-ly smoke, sounds quite healthy, but something is clearly wrong somewhere.
Took the carb off again to see if the slow running jet was blocked, but no: clear.
Put it back together, same result.
Mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out from fully in.
What next to try?
Previous owner said it ran earlier this year, but it may have been like this!
David

       

I have just recieved from one of our suppliers a hard rubber part I did not order and I don’t know what it is
What is it? and if anyone has ordered it recently let me know, I could take it to the NEC tomorrow and leave it in care of the PWAC stand.

I also had difficulty attaching photos 

Ian

750 Motor Club, Tunbridge Wells Centre invite you to take part in the Cold Turkey Trail at Tulley's Farm, near Crawley, West Sussex on 29 December 2018.

Classes for standard, modified and special Austin Sevens competing on challenging hills and hollows but nothing designed to break your car! Good access from the road, parking for cars and trailers, and (we hope) Ruth's catering van for early breakfast, lunchtime, and afternoon tea!

Entry costs £20 and forms from : barry@marthatrust.org.uk

Last night Burt became very unwell....

The engine has had a light rattle at higher engine speed when warm, but not significant to pull the engine apart.

But yesterday things got pretty noisy pretty quickly! Symptoms now are:-

- Engine will idle but with a light rattle
- As soon as off idle with no load the engine is extremely clattery/knocking.

It's not a big end noise, and obviously the enigine needs to come out for inspection and repair. But until I do that in the next few days my mind is wondering what it could be. Is it possible for a 3 bearing engine to still run with a broken crank? Could be the flywheel has decided to start removing itself from the crank. Could be a piston fallen apart. No holes in the crank case (yet!). Or maybe rear main has disintegrated?

What is the 'normal' failure mode for a 3 bearing engine?

Ray

Anyone else having trouble trying to post images? I am getting a 'Please choose a valid file and try again' error message. The file is a normal .jpg of no great size.

Any A7 specialists going to be there?

Someone has kept the patent plate from the AD Chummy, as a souvenir I expect. I need a useable brass one (not a repro)
Can anyone help? I will be at the NEC on Sat 10th if that helps!

The old website had a thread for pictures of bodges and parts well past their sell-by dates, so I was inspired to revive it after collecting a block I'd planned to have re-sleeved, from my local engineers. The block had been sleeved in the past and was out to +60, but when the old liners were pushed out this was what we found:

   

I know its not recommended that previously-sleeved blocks should have the operation repeated but thought it was worth a try, as I prefer to recycle parts whenever possible. In this case, quite apart from the rust damage, the old liners were oversize compared to what is commonly available today, and appear to be unobtainable. As the photo shows, several valve seats would have needed replacing and the top face needed a skim, so it has been consigned to the scrap pile (where it should have gone in the first place...)

Alastair

The removable dash panel on my 1932 AG tourer I discover has original crackle finish paint under the Patent Plate! Mr Mills shows one piece dashes  crackled,  but not one with the removable section. I was preparing the panel for painting & found this!
 So now it will go & be crackled (by the local powder coaters who also do a good crackle! ) I am considering having the running boards powder coated black....any experience out there?

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

       

Having struggled for years getting all of the springs and bits in alignment I came up with what I believe to be an ingenious idea, ( now tell me it’s not original).
Using the alignment tool as described in Woodrows and a Jubilee clip. See pictures
Clamp the assembly and compress, drop the Jubilee clip over the splines and tighten. I then use three long set screws and nuts to hold the whole thing together whilst finaly centralising the spline and tightening the six fixing bolts.