I remember someone suggesting about relieving the block obstruction in the inlet port. This one doesnt seem to be that obstructing (well, in terms of what can be removed and still leave some metal for the stud above), so I wonder whether there are differences generally in blocks and what they might be. There seem to be some evidence of stamping but I cant work out a date.

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Time to start planning your trip north (or south!!).

The Club's week-long summer holiday follows the Rally and will be based around Killin this year.

   

HI,    Steve here  in Tucson AZ . USA . I race 1940 American Bantam with '37 English Austin engine at Bonneville Salt Flats .  Many  mods to engine which I will cover as this goes . This winter I am updating to Garrett gt12 turbo with port fuel injection running methanol fuel .  There will be air to air intercooler in front of radiator and 2 injectors , (1 each port) from underneath pointing at valve with ECU  (engine control unit) controlling all the functions, ignition, ( deadfire , with flywheel  60 -2  teeth  notched for signal from magnet in crankcase ) , and  fuel delivery .   I was using (2)   1  1/4" S/U with modifications , ( light spring , larger vent holes , butterfly and shaft trimmed , piston rising out of throat ) .   Valves are from Ford Ztec  ,smaller stems , stainless , lighter.  Followers drilled , shortened , no lock nut ,small head  .  Valve retainers titanium .   Hadley crank and rods , ali. oil pan , electric water and oil pump , adjustable timing gear , stock flywheel and clutch , 4 spd. close ratio transmisson . [img]dscn 1966jpg[/img]

Worth a reminder that if you insure your A7 through RH Specialist Vehicle Insurance that you can add other classic cars to the existing policy.

My 1965 Rover P6's insurance is due early in the New Year and Lancaster sent the quote through (cheaper than last year) but I have never shopped around and this year I thought I would see what RH could do.

I filled an on-line quotation request yesterday and they phoned this afternoon, and the renewal premium was less than a fiver!!! Ok, this is only until the existing policy expires in February, but the annual premium is just slightly more than Lancaster (about £8.00 dearer), BUT Lancaster charge a valuation fee of £18.00 AND a hefty £49.50 arrangement fee, so quite a bit of a saving.

I have all my cars with business use, when the current Rover policy expires, all my classic cars will be under a single policy with RH and cutting out Lancaster's extra charges mean that the savings will effectively give me one car's insurance for free, now that can't be bad!

It hardly ever snows at Christmas Time.

It's even stopped snowing on this site this year !

Finally completed the Seven Special 1927 6v rewire, amazingly everything works, well almost.
After standing for a couple of months she refuses to start.
Turns over well but will not run, however when I wired the new magneto fly lead and tightened the securing nut the cover rotated slightly. I'm no magneto expert but I'm assuming this has either advanced or retarded the timing? Nothing else was touched on the magneto and it was not removed, does anybody suspect this as my problem?
I did rotate the cover slightly and She would idle (very low revs) but as soon as I engaged the throttle she stalled. 
Manufacturer B T H?


Many thanks

missing the chassis horns that bolt the front body to the chassis front piece on a '29 saloon. 

and missing the two strengthener bits in the bottom corners of the  '29 radiator cowl. 

Been scratching head and realised that nothing is attached to where it should be!

A Chummy advertised as 1921 (but actually 1924/5 I think from the engine number and lack of speedometer) has just apparently sold on US ebay for $10,600 (£8600apprx)!  I understood the Vendor was looking for $15.000. Chassis no was not properly shown.
Apparently a sale from a museum. Looked in good condition too. Nice Christmas present for someone!

Hi,

I need a 1931 back axle , have a 29 in at present but need to change CWP to 5.67
For Chummy Tourer based special.

I can be emailed : richnash@yahoo.com

Cheers

As part of my engine rebuild I have been recommended to take the oil pump .020” oversize. On the assumption this is a good idea for a road going splash fed sports engine without oil filter, this poses two questions:

Do I leave the jets the same size or enlarge them to get more flow through onto the crank? (I would have thought the latter, as there seems little point in just increasing system pressure for the hell of it)

and

Assuming that just shoving a wire through the jets is an unreliable way of proving where the oil will in fact end up I'd like to observe the flow through the jets after installing the crank but before fitting the rods and block. What cunning arrangements have people come up with to achieve this demonstration? e.g. is it better to find some way to drive the pump, or to stick a tank up high and allow gravity to provide the supply?