Were the boards backing the rexine (other finishes are available!...I wish) trim in the late 20's millboard, thin 3 (?) ply or hardboard?
I discovered possibly original (or first re-cover!) Rexine under the relatively thick vinyl on ply board on the doors. I have binned the vinyl & cleaned up the rexine which is not in bad nick. It appears to have been painted black as there is some of what is the original mid-blue showing through on the reverse. The ply is covered on the reverse with a very thin "cheap" cotton material in black.The door boards now fit under the aluminium finishing strip.
The rear quarter panels are hardboard covered in vinyl and the wheel arches simply vinyl cut, stitched & glued in place. There were the remains of a few bifurcated rivets ( 1/8", almost like old fashioned paper staples) still in the wheel arches which probably held the wheel arch trim (was it rexine covered ply again?) in place ....and let the water in no doubt!
Do I cut new rear quarter boards from ply & refit the (relatively thick ) vinyl, or is there a thinner alternative?
I remember a couple of years ago buying (in France at a market) what they called "American Cloth" tablecloths, very thin & similar to rexine, but not very suitable patterns!

I've met John a few times and he gave me some good advice about his 12V conversion to go alongside the Bristol A7 Club webpage.  I'm currently trying to get my car finished off, if only to get it running enough to drive round the garden.  I'm unemployed so a new 12 volt kit is out of the question.  I have everything else in 12 volts available from Morris 1000s so I'd prefer to avoid the cost of equipping with 6 volt bulbs etc.

I've got a very late C35 dynamo all cleaned up but wanted to check the info out before I fire the car up again.  At the moment I think that the 3rd brush has to be removed and an added cable strung between the screwed terminals of the old 3rd brush and the earth brush which is shown in Woodrow as "Negative (earth) brush".  The 2 other brushes remain exactly as Austin designed them?

The mathematics mentioned by John don't seem to add up.  1.6 Ohms plus 3.4 ohms would be 5 ohms.  Am I right in aiming for 5 or for 6 ohms?

Lastly, I can find the F and D terminals on the control box but how do I ensure I have the righ terminals as they come out of the dynamo itself?  Mine has a block with 2 wires held by grub screws.

Many thanks

Rob Thomas

Attached Files

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I have fitted a big 7 front axle on my Nippy chassis.  I need to put weights on the front of the chassis to load the front spring to normal running position so I can check where the radius arm mount will come so that I can fix it to the cross member then measure the castor using 5/8" rods through the king pin eyes.  This will be to see if a wedge is needed between spring and chassis.  
Does anyone know what the weight of a big 7 engine and gearbox is?  I will probably use sacks of coal on planks as the main weight to start with.
The actual engine being used is a BMC A+ with Toyota T50 5 speed box.
OK you are going to ask why not just mount the A+ engine and take it from there? Yup I think that is what I must do then add a bit of weight for the body/rad etc.

There that is age for you, talk to yourself and the answer eventually pops up.


Dennis

I've read a couple of interesting threads on here about lightened flywheels recently, the 'modern' way of doing this seems more effective at reducing weight and probably stronger / less risky than drilling millions of holes like they used to back in the day.

So, where does that leave the 'Swiss cheese' type? I always had doubts about weakening the thing and I'm not sure how far you can safely go. Do we know of any cases where a drilled flywheel has failed? Is there a critical area to avoid?

I only ask because I have a drilled flywheel in one of my boxes and I'm wondering whether to hang onto it or not. Will become pertinent soon as I'm building up an engine which is currently short of a (Ruby/ Newton Bennett) flywheel and clutch assy.

Thoughts welcomed...and yes I'll put up a pic when I get a moment...

One of my last jobs this year was to start up the newly build mag engine destined for the Cup Model.

All went as planned except for a spinning noise as the revs built up - nothing at all when turning over??

I removed the timing cover plate and could see nothing touching or moving, no witness marks. I thought maybe a dry bearing so oiled everything and reassembled. Still there!

On discussion with others we jointly concluded that the vernier drive felt seal retaining ring must be spinning. I started the frustrating task of disassembling, again!

As I started to take out the idler gear I noticed this:



It was the gear at fault, not the pin. It is now all replaced and back up together.

A new one to me.

This has just popped up on the ATF forum.

http://tricyclecaristes.forumr.net/t255p...in-seven-7


A late entry?

Hi all,

Can anyone advise on what the original colour blue for a 1931 Ulster would be.

A pic would be nice.

Tony.

Hello, this is a bit of a 'vanity' query really, I guess.

I have recently discovered that my Austin RP was originally registered in 22/7/1933, 'Near Oxford' under its original registration number
JO 7623.
I have also discovered that prior to me there were eight previous owners.

This number (JO 7623) was sold/transfered (presumably to someone name 'Josaphine'!) in April 1993, when my Austin was re-registered under an 'age related' number, SVS 256.

My original registartion number JO 7623 now resides on a 2014 manufactured Ford (so no chance of getting it back)

My question is....by any chance does anyone have any knowledge, information etc of Austin JO 7623, what part of the country the A7 may have 'lived' with previous owner etc?

I would appreciate any information anyone may have, not for any specific purpose, but purely to 'add value' to my experience of the joy of owning and using the A7.

I have had a quick look at the Oxford Local Authority web site, no obvious links to any departments that might have historic vehicle registartion documents and information.
(I will try telephoning them in the new year)

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all.

I need the ratchet for an uncoupled handbrake, if anyone has one in reasonable nick (well, a pair actually).

If you're unsure, the uncoupled ones have 11 teeth and each leg of the ratchet is 3.75" between centres of the fixing holes (measured as a straight line)

Thanks

Charles

It s been nearly a year since I completed my car, so I thought I would share my photo diary of its construction. 
I purchased a rolling chassis with a water damaged engine, with similar numbers so presumably from the same original car. 
The photos May be of use to someone building a special as many of the parts were fabricated by me in my workshop (seats, flyscreens, alternator mount, etc etc!)
Registration was done with help from the club and an age related number was issued. 
Here is a link to my Flickr album. Beware, many photos!
https://www.flickr.com/gp/22719913@N04/92d3jW

Regards
Andrew