Sorry but I did not want revive old posts for this 'questionnaire'  
I'm still in doubt about which 4.50x19 tyres to choose for the Rosengart. 
On the front are old Firestones of which one is loosing its pressure , rears have been shod with modern 'Yoko-drama'-motorcycle tyres, spare is like a crisp....wouldn't get me home in case of emergency methinks  
And as I seem to 've managed to sell some items from my not-automotive -related-collection (and keeping fingers crossed the buyer will indeed turn up somewhere mid Januari with the Cudo's) the Rosengart's budget will allow the acquisition of some new 4.50 x 19 rubbers all round. 
Thus inspiring me with more confidence to take it further afield than the pub opposed  the church in the next village. 
Having read old post on similar what-tyre-to-choose-topics  and browsing around I can choose from two types of Ensign (B5 and triple stud), Excelsior 69P and 75H comp, Waymaster WM 30 and off course Blockeys and Longstones, treads of which are the 3 studs like on Ensign Triple `Stud and Excelsior 75 H comp. 
I'm leaving Michelin Double Rivets out of the equation as they are. too expensive for me, excluding also Avon Side Car tyres and some Firestones in 4.50. x 19 size as they too seem to be motorcycle tyres (plus the Firestones are overpriced over here in the Netherlands).

Blockeys are amongst the more affordable but I've read less favorable things about them, one drawback being little tread-depth and quickly wearing. 
My friend mechanic has found them  inconsistent in actual sizes (no matter size indicated on the walls) and a pig to fit. 
They are soft and have flat spots when the car has been standing for a longer period.

Waymasters too are affordable and I kinda like the tread pattern,  but these get critcized for being ridiculously noisy and bad wet weather performance (and in The Netherlands we do get our showers every now and then...)

My friend has had Excelsior 69P tyres on one of his cars but after a few years they became slippery in the wet. 
He has recently fitted Excelsior Comps to his car but has not yet driven his cars with these so he cannot yet  give me an assessment.

Ensign Triple studs are among the more expensive ones and I do not see any advantage when compared to Blockley/ Longstone three stud tyres.

Longstone tyres usually get overall best critics and / or little negative comments.   
However when I contacted Longstone and asked them to make me an offer (i.e. deal) for 5 tyres plus tubes ex VAT plus shipment to the Netherlands they fell silent.

So what I'd like to know is the actual experience of y'all with either of these; price-wise, general overall quality, consistency, road behavior and 'grip'  both in the dry and in the wet, inclination to develop flat spots etcetera. 
Best would be comments from people who'e had and tried more than one of these tires brands / types so they can help me compare pros and cons.

As many of these tyres seem to be produced with a softer compound, wear is not a major issue as that will undoubtedly also depend on individual driving styles  (and.... I used to consume a set of Michelin Pilot's or Bridgestone RE71's within 8000 kms (approx 5000 miles) on my Citroen AX Sport when I was a younger man....so who am I to make wear an issue?)

Reason why I plan to buy from a UK based supplier (hopefully before the Ides of March 2019) is that all these tyres are more competitively priced in the UK than in the Netherlands (or any other EU country) and I cannot help being under the impression that Duch suppliers to vintage car owners,  be it 'tyre-specialists' or workshops specializing in vintage cars services, buy from the same sources and at the same prices as I would....and then put their own profit-margin on them....

PS / Edit.. throwing into the equation the T/T Classic Roadmaster (found them om the Longstone site)
PS / Edit No.2) Longstones in 4.50x19 are actually 4.00 x 19; Lognstone gives some explanations toward the reasons why they think their 4.00x19 is the right size for a 4.50x19 but I do not buy that... nice ploy to conceal one cannot / will not manufacture / supply in 4.50x19 as well???

1932  RN Saloon 3 speed gearbox - standard.  Question,   
What is the distance between the floor boards and the clutch pedal   - approximately ?  I have run out of pedal movement,  and can only disengage clutch by removing the carpets !!  On stripping down,  I can see wear on the clutch release collar caused by the clutch levers.  I can sort that, perhaps even fit rollers as suggested by Tony ?  (Sorry Tony,  forgot your surname).  But it would be nice to know where the pedal should be, and if it can be measured whilst the engine /gearbox are on the bench.  Currently I have 0.09" between the rear engine mounting lug and the pedal itself.  

Note,  the 3 speed box clutch pedal is cottered to the clutch pedal shaft and its position can't be adjusted.

Also interesting to note that the clutch release collar has been built up in the past and also a mild steel "washer" placed on top of of that to provide the necessary pedal clearance,  but after about 10,000 miles, the clutch levers have worn through the steel "washer".

BobH

At the Cold Turkey Trial yesterday, my other half, Debs, received the attentions of Robert Foreman. Clerk of the Course, Mike Stone, was entirely tolerant of the goings-on.

Suggestions for a caption to this photo?


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This looks to be far too good to be broken up:

https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C1066962


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... but the advert clearly states the sale is for the body only 

I have replaced the silent block bush on my Ruby today.
I originally thought this was a straightforward press out old / press in new job , however as is usually the way , I ended up having to remove the torque tube assembly .
I very carefully checked the shims upon removal and was surprised to find 3 shims at the top but only 2 at the bottom !!
I have reassembled in the exact way but was wondering if the mismatch in shim numbers may cause problems ?
Thanks
Joe.

Could I ask if anyone has had any good results with the silicone seals that are available for the 
tappet chest covers please?
My 3rd attempt this year with using the original type cork gaskets has failed once again.
Rightly, or wrongly, I have always had to trim them using a craft knife to fit them into the cover
and have repeatedly had to straighten the cover to achieve a flat surface but still they don't stop 
the oil seeping out, usually in the bottom corners.
Any suggestions or full proof methods will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Graham

Advice needed please regarding the removal and replacement of the fabric coupling on my 1928 Chummy. Woodrow says undo the three bolts securing the propshaft to the coupling and move the propshaft backwards to clear the bolt heads. Ha! What do I do when there is not enough clearance between the shaft and the bolts? With the propshaft all the way home in the U joint I still need a good 1/4 inch to clear. I’m thinking ease engine and gearbox forward slightly?

Just a thought, the car is light, stripped out at the moment and sitting high on its suspension. Would that make a difference?

Thanks, John

Someone posted this scan on the old site, at the time a high-res version was not available and the dimensions are not reliably readable. Does anyone know if a better scan now exists? I've checked the A7CA archive but no tech dwgs there.

Yes, I have the scrap views which were posted with it. Also the much clearer 1 1/8" crank dwg.

It's a fully readable complete 2- or 3-bearing 1 5/16 crank dwg. that I seek.

Thanks.


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Does anyone have any suggestions for revitalising the finish on plated fittings, such as door handles, other than replating, replacing or living with them?

Regards,

Jamie.

I am no expert, but somehow I doubt that this is an original part.

By    

Jamie.