Get if off your chest!

Only genuine moans allowed. No swearing. Keep it clean. Keep it short.

Your gripe will be listened to (well, read anyway) but don't expect anyone to actually give a fig.

For example...

As you most know I live in the south of France. Most of the time life is great, but I have to admit that at this time of the year the winter sun is a real pain in the "fesses" as the skies are generally clear but the sun is much lower on the horizon than in the summer so it's always in your eyes when driving, either in your face, the side window or the rear view mirror... 

Over to you.

Great day out at Bicester yesterday. Lots of interesting machinery and quite a number of 7s in evidence.

Selection of photos here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmtKdeam

  bice.JPG (Size: 50.12 KB / Downloads: 439)

I have recently removed both rear shock absorbers for cleaning and refurbishing, using Woodrow for advice.  On the spring shackle end the lock nuts and spring washer assembly on dismantling from inside out was 1, lock nut, 2, spring washer, 3 lock nut. However Woodrow shows assembly as 1, spring washer, 2, lock nut, 3, lock nut. My personal opinion is that the Woodrow method would be best as otherwise the nuts are not locking against each other. I would be grateful for other opinions please.

Hi all,

I am about to do a bit of mechanical restoration on my 1935 Mk 1 Ruby, suspension, brakes and minor engine overhaul. She also needs a re-wire as the existing 6 volt wiring is a mess and probably unsafe. 

My question is do I send the existing dynamo off for overhaul or install one of the more modern 6 volt  dynamators from Accuspark? 

I am more than happy to keep her on the 6 volt system as it's part of her character. I am just looking at improving the overall reliability of the electrics. Any advice would be great fully received. 

Cheers,

Darren

I have recently 'inherited' an Austin 7 chassis with unusual brakes and was wondering if anyone can help me with identifying where they are from.
I'm only new to the Austin 7 and still on the steepest part of the learning curve, so would appreciate any wisdom you can share.

The brakes appear to be solid push rods that run back along the chassis rails to the rear brakes - photos below.
The only reference I've been able to find to any sort of push rod style brakes on an Austin 7 was a hybrid rod and cable system that ran a single rod back to somewhere near the rear chassis cross member then cables to each wheel. 

This chassis appears to have been extensively modified during its life with welded on reinforcement, a strange boxed in cutout in the rail on the front left under the engine, plenty of muck and grime, and no obvious chassis numbers to find - yet.

regards
Andrew

   
   
   

Hi All
Slightly confused regarding the fitting of an isolator switch to my special.
Initially I was planning to fit a Lucas unit to the dash next to the starter button, breaking the + positive circuit (6v neg earth system).
However the instructions state fitting to the earth circuit, the battery is fitted underslung passenger floor some way from the dash.
Question is, would I then have to run the negative earth cable from the battery to the isolator and then to earth ?
A friend with a Seven has suggested fitting to positive circuit on dash prior to push start button, any thoughts.

Christmas just a little late today.

Had a delivery of 4 cranks and 10 sets of rods.

Bee waiting for over three years for these.

And this time I GET TO KEEP ONE.

[attachment=4993]

This is the main ingredient for my idea of a very fast perfect engine.

Does anybody know who is taking part in the Twickenham to Tokyo event, cars, drivers and timescale?

Can we get updates via the Forum?

For the Rosengart enthusiasts in case they haven't seen this section

http://tricyclecaristes.forumr.net/t370p...art-divers

I just love the registration no. font!