new in packet  - bought two accidentally
suits the 1/4" BSF size die
£4 posted

They seem quite solid - bought from engineering firm someone recommended on here - but I'd venture that one of the several securing screws is likely to be not exactly straight if my others are anything to go by.

Well I nearly had a fire yesterday when the float in my 26va carb decided to sink so allowing the pump to work overtime and push petrol out of every orifice on the carb.

When I took the float out you could hear the petrol sloshing inside so I weighed it at 30 gms whereas an empty float is 13 gms.

Question is where can I get a new float from as they don't seem to be listed in the spares lists of the usual suppliers. 

Also how would I go about finding the leak and repairing it as for obvious reasons I don't want to apply any heat to the solder on the bottom and I can not see any bubbles when it's sunk in a jug of water. 

The petrol also managed to remove the majority of the paint off the plate above the exhaust, better than nitromors. 

Any suggestions gratefully received.

Dave

Was reading about the removal of one edge of the block around each bore to enable transition of top of piston area into valve area on the later and sports heads. It doesn't give details of depth you take away, but presumably even a mm or so would be effective.

Is this still something any of you do? Or is it seen as damaging blocks which might be re-used for LC where it wouldn't be useful?

I have seen in the past a set of reinforcing strips made from 3mm to replace the oval washers on the sump, does anyone still make these.

Hi All,

On my SWB Ulster rep, I have discovered, for reasons quite unknown to me, that I am missing the brackets that support the body across the break of the floor to the firewall. Does anyone have a set or even one of these from which I could fabricate copies to mount. They appear from photos to have been riveted(steel, I think) to the cross member. It would seem to be an important thing to have these and the corresponding pieces on the footwells.

Erich in Seattle

Hi, I know this subject was recently covered, but does anyone know if scaffold boards used as ramps will take the weight of a Nippy up into the back of a transit lwb. 
I may buy a car and have the choice of a friends car trailer or hire a van which i would prefer. It's the weight accept on boards that im unsure of. I would of course make sure the boards are strong and sound.
Regards RPM

Can someone please point me in the direction of an online chart for valve specifications?
  I need to know head diameter, stem diameter and overall length.

I am looking for a new cap for a Bosch 009 distributor, the type with vertical outlets, not the horizontal (as per McKenzie ones).
I think it might be part number GB739?
I'm sure I've seen someone advertising black ones, which would be good, but cannot source them.
All ideas appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, I am currently overhauling the electrical system of our Special before next season.  I was originally going to get the Dynamo overhauled & a new Solid State Regulator to go with it.  This looked like it was going to cost somewhere north of £500 & take 4 - 6 weeks.

This inspired me to do some digging & I came across the Dynamator option.  On the face of it this looked like Manna from heaven.  Greater charging ability, no stupid mechanical voltage regulator & 1/2 the price I was initially looking at.

Then I started googling for fitting instructions & found the multiple threads here & elsewhere regarding gear wear & general problems.

So, what I am asking is this:

Is the Dynamator a sensible option?  Have the problems with gear wear been sorted? If I do use one & swap the drive gears at either end with the matching set off my current dynamo will this solve any potential issues?

If the answer to any of the questions above is NO, can anyone recommend anyone who can recon my original Dynamo & supply a good quality reliable regulator box in a fairly short (4 weeks or so) time scale?

Thanks, Mark

Carrying on from my last post when I found the petrol pipe, pump to carburettor half blocked with solder & no banjo bolt filter, I decided to strip the carb cleaned all the jets by compressed air and then rebuilt the carb. Looking at diagrams of the Zenith 26AV carb it shows washers on the main,compensating & slow running jets there's no washers on mine, and there is no progression jet & plug fitted. Before stripping the carb the engine run perfect once started, it did take a bit of starting when cold no problem when hot. Now it will not start, when trying to start petrol drips from the choke end of carb the choke shuts fully & opens fully and the plugs are getting wet with petrol, I have checked all compression's 110, timing set at TDC,, firing order 1342, point gap 12 th tried new pugs with 16 th gap, plenty of petrol in tank.  What am I missing    ( 1938 Ruby 750cc )

Thanks for all replies 
Graham