Stumbled upon a little gem on ebay, link here:

Ebay Military Tourer Album

Not cheap but very rare.  Even if you don't buy it, check out the link to see the photos..

Damian

Recently there have been a few threads where it has been noted that it would be helpful if peoples location was noted with their posts (as per the old forum), so that local services/help can be advised or local connections can be made.
This has been done (see example below) to use the location given on the users profile.
   

Adding a location is not mandatory, but can be helpful. There is no need to be too specific if worried about disclosure, for example a county, region or other equivalent would at least give a general idea.
If you didn't add your location when signing up and would like to add it now instructions are below.

Click 'User CP' as shown in picture below..
   

In the menu on the left select 'Edit Profile'
   

Add you location in the box shown, followed by clicking 'Update Profile'.
   

Hi folks, can anyone assist please.
I have recently completed a full restoration of my early Ruby saloon and however having just completed my first one hundred miles I had an issue with a head gasket failure.
My restoration has been in two parts, the first of which was 30 years ago which included the engine rebuild and the second over the last 3 years to finish the body etc.
The head gasket failure is most likely due to my own incompetence, I cannot remember what torque I had originally tightened the head down to all those years ago but I know when I removed the head yesterday the nuts came away embarrassingly easily with very little effort using only a short spanner!
So with new gasket and a modern torque wrench I set about replacing the old gasket.
However having removed the head I was surprised with what I found especially as the engine rebuild was complete with re-sleeve back to original size new pistons, rods, bearing etc.
The attached picture shows areas of the pistons that are coated with a black sticky goo which could be removed with a bit of effort and some paraffin. I have never come across anything like this before, interestingly, I contacted a local garage man who deals with older cars and he told me he had another Ruby in with exactly the same problem. He put it down to modern fuel but I am not convinced.
If anyone can shed any light I would be most grateful
Best regards to one and all Denis Sweeney

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

Thanks to Martin - aka The Distributor Doctor - who received from me a very manky DK4a that had been in my 'odds-and-sods' box for years, and returned a rebuilt, refurbished and shiny 'new' DK4a in two working days! Good going by my reckoning.

This is not Austin 7 related at all, it's a 11000(!) HP supercharged top fuel dragster engine rebuild but it is interesting to see how, even with something as exotic as this, engine building is quite similar no matter what it is. But there are some fascinating details in this film such as them using the erosion of the spark plug electrodes as a measure of how good the combustion is in each cylinder. Or how they use different thickness copper head gaskets to tune the compression ratio before making a run.

 

Simon

Sorting my spanners and getting rid of a few that are duplicates and have been set aside for younger models. Offers for any of these - clearly some better quality than others and assume they have some tarnish/rust just from lack of use. They need loving and use!
(Postage at cost... up to 2kg-worth is 2.95 and I suppose a single small spanner is going to be a 80p large letter size)

ring
Chrome Vanadium Germany ring offset 3/8 and 7/16
Elora ring offset 5/16 and 1/4 BSW
Gordon ring offset 3/8 and 5/16 W
USA Forged Select Steel ring 1/4 and 9/16
Super athol 3/8 SAE flat and offset

ring no offset
Macrome ring short 1/4 and 5/16 W

standard spanner
Elora 11/16 and 5/8
Elora 100 1/2 and 7/16
Britool 9/16 and 5/8
Britool 7/16W 1/2W
Matador Super chrom Germany 3/8 and 5/16 BSW
ACESA Chrom Vanadium  3/4 and 17mm
ACESA 7/8 and 20mm
Bedford Vanadium 7/16 and 3/8

Ring and standard
Tipco 1/4W 5/16 BS
drop forged India 9/16
Elora 205 ring and standard 9/16 AF
Hitop 1/2 short

Advice please, which hillclimb do the forum recommend as a first time spectator, Shelsey Walsh or Prescott.
Also which event would be best for seeing sevens and similar vintage cars in action. Thank you .

Just reading up on shackle pins as I have one loose. The Dorset site has this from Terry and the Midlands club:
http://www.da7c.co.uk/technical_torque_a...ations.htm

I've already got one suspension front link removed to allow direct link to front axle, but is the triangular securing plate for one shackle... to enable the spring to remain central.... something others have used for road cars? 
  WEBterrysuspension triangle.jpg (Size: 35.43 KB / Downloads: 333)

It seems quite a simple idea, presumably a more rigorous version on some others' ideas of stuffing a bit of rubber between the shackle and the axle!

Hello people
One of the regulator posts/terminals is completely shot.
Any idea where a replacement can be found or anything similar.
Or any ideas on how to make the connection required.
Regards
           Tim

Hi all,

I'm in the process of dismantling my 1935 Ruby for a bit of maintenance. I'm struggling to get the front/nose cone off. Can the brass starting handle be removed? I've taken the cotter pin out, is it then a simple case of hitting it with a hammer? Any help would be great.

Cheers,

Darren