Seen this advert in Classic Cars weekly

A one owner example for the last 19 years, has the most delicious dealer service history, only 5,200 miles per annum from new, been a member of the Volvo Owners Club for a number of years.

The same dealer

A one owner garaged kept example for the last 20 years, yes a one owner example for the last 20 years, has the most wonderful & beautifully delicious Volvo dealer service history, been in the Volvo owners Club for a number of years.

How have people tackled the blanking off of the oil gallery to the redundant jets when fitting a pressure fed crank? Blocking the jets is easy enough but I'd like to stop flow of unfiltered oil along this gallery. The screw in blanking plugs in the crankcase are inconveniently out of line with the cast main gallery so the idea of simply screwing in a blanking plug seems impossible because I can't get a tap in to create a female thread. 


Suggestions welcomed


Thanks

Charles

Hi All

I'm rebuilding the back axle of my 1930 RK.  It has a screw in torque tube and has inherited one narrow half shaft and one wider shaft. That is the diff carrier has been reamed on one side to take a later half shaft! I am using lip seals in the axle cases and hubs.

The existing adjusters on either side of the diff carrier do not have the oil thrower screw thread. However I do have a pair of later adjusters from a Ruby axle that seem to fit.  

Question is it worth fitting these in place of the original adjusters? Does the screw thread help much?

Cheers

Howard

To day I removed the petrol tank on my ARR Ruby, when the tank had dried out, the inside is covered in a white powder when I removed the sender unit the float was also covered it cleaned of with brasso, can anyone tell me is this the result of old stale petrol or is it some thing that as been added to keep the petrol fresh.

Thanks for all replies 
Graham in Sheffield

I’ll Here I have a Austin chummy CAV switch pannel in excellent condition £345 plus postage please email 
Claudia_louise17@hotmail.com

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Hi all,
My MkII Ruby brake lights remain on when foot is removed from the pedal, I have to pull it back to extinguish, much of a job to adjust?? 

Just tripped over this.

http://findclassicars.com/austin/149156-...story.html

came across this ad.. it's not mine.... lots of bits and bobs... might make someone a nice starter package to build his / her ulsteroid.... https://racecarsdirect.com/Advert/Detail...n-7-ulster

I have been sketching ideas for a Ruby based special for a while now. As I originally had just the chassis; no engine and no shell, I was going to fit a Reliant engine and a shell fabricated from scratch. I have since picked up a decent A7 running engine and gearbox for a very fair price and the rotted and mangled remains of the original body. My current musings are based on using what I can salvage from the shell, minus the parts which are beyond the pale.

The top picture was my original plan, but I cannot really get the proportions to look quite right. The rest are my current ideas; I have always wanted a convertible, like a Morgan, but not an Ulster or anything of that ilk. The lines will need refining, but this gives a general idea.
 
Time will tell what I actually end up creating...........

Jamie.

   

   
   
   

My autos parks chum called me to say the wiring was done and I went over this afternoon to see. Checked oil levels slackened distributor clamp and it started within  half a dozen goes. Timing jiggled to sweet spot and it ran well and ticked over nicely. Jolly good show, can't wait to  play some more!!!