Hi,
I picked this up from The classic car forum, I am not capable of putting in the internet connection so I have taken a couple of screenshots. I could wish it was fake news but I suspect it is true.
Ian

The screenshots could be back to front, as I said I am not too good with technology.

Have just seen an ad on Car and Classic for a so called Ruby chassis for auction by Dee Atkinson &Harrison at Drifield in Yorkshire on 2/3/19, estimated at £300. It looks to have a nippy crankcase and deep sump with it (possible bottom half of engine). It may be useful to someone?

I'm not sure if this is the terminology used in the UK. It is a battery cut off switch. My governing body for a hill climb I wish to do, has said I must have an externally mounted kill switch. This despite the fact that they have allowed other cars in the past(Bentleys, Amilcar, Isotta, Itala) to compete without one. Does the VSCC require externally mounted kill switches and if so, how are they mounted? I am reluctant to cut holes in the body. I have a kill switch already, a paddle shaped key on the near side seat support.

Erich in Seattle

This photo of a newly restored Morris Minor was taken yesterday and has recently been uploaded to a Morris Forum. In the background is what appears to be a very early Seven - the owner believes 1922 / 23. It does feature on the A7CA Chassis Register with a query against it, but only gives its registration number of RNL 9450. Both myself and another Morris Forum member have asked for more details and I've suggested to the owner that he updates the chassis register via the online notification form for which I've provided him a link. 

http://a7ca.org/chassis-register/regresults


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Just posted on a Morris Forum is this Facebook Marketplace ad for what the seller describes as a Morris 8 powered Beresford Stork Fire Pump - it's definitely not a Morris 8 engine.
I've found a similar Beresford Stork Pump auctioned by Brightwells described as being powered by an Industrial Austin 8 engine - both engines would appear identical.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/ite...915051188/

https://www.soldbyauctions.com/homes/adv...tMyxVCmAK/

No connection to me, I'm just passing on the information should anyone be interested.

Jeff.

Wanting to make up a pusher to mount the front bearings. My starter dog measures 5/8" over the threads but is 16 tpi, not the 14 I would expect for standard bsf. Is this thread a bastard size?

PLEASE don't use this to start a Brexit debate. The forum is not the place for that. I am simply posting it because it is a topical use of the Austin name - and the bit about breakdowns made me laugh.


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Having decided to tackle the rumbling rear main bearing on my box saloon that has been getting increasingly noisy since I bought the car in October, I ordered a new bearing from The Seven Workshop. To be fair, Jamie did tell me that he was currently unable to get the RHP bearings and offered me a Hoffman bearing instead. Knowing that Hoffman are a well known brand ordered one, which arrived today. When i unpacked it, although it says it is an MRJ1 1/4" bearing, it is uncaged and, of course, fell into it's component parts as I examined it. The old bearing is a Ransome and Marles caged bearing.

Has anyone experience of using uncaged rear main bearings? And, if so, am I likely to run into any problems with running and what is the best way of fitting them so that the rollers don't end up all over the workshop floor?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Hi All
Is it possible to buy complete new rear brakes shoes?, by that I mean shoes complete with lining and cam shims.( 1927 1 inch shoe)
I was about to get mine relined to complement the recently purchased cast iron brake drums (Tony Betts) and discovered apart from shot linings and shims the shoes themselves differ from n/s to o/s.
N/s are marked as Birmal and look newer than the o/s marked as XLI398.
Question is does this matter ?
I was thinking it would be just as easy to buy new complete shoes however I am struggling to find a supplier.
Many thanks
Paul

Hi everyone,

I’m sure this question has been asked before, but what should I look to do to prevent the ignition light from staying on after starting the car.

It’s always done this but I guess it is supposed to go out after starting.

I have a 1938 Opal APE.

Thanks,

Matt