Not opening the debate of if we should or should not leave, but the FBHVC have issued the checklist below most of which I am sure we all expected and just a bit more paperwork.  But the one about Roadworthiness and possibly needed to get an MOT I had not thought of.  The MOT issue may be one to watch more closely if you done have an MOT and looking to take your A7 abroad this year and don't currently have an MOT.

BREXIT CHECKLIST
 
The Federation recognises that you might be considering taking your historic vehicle across the Channel, or into the Republic of Ireland, this year.
 
You might be concerned about what will be different if the UK should leave the EU on 29 March 2019 without any deal having been achieved.
 
In anything concerning this subject, in the first instance you should consult Government websites. As departments develop their plans, information is posted online on a regular basis.
 
The following are areas which the Federation considers you should think about if you are intending to travel, either as a driver or passenger.
 
·      You should consider your insurance, both vehicle and personal.
 
o  The Insurance Directive will cease to be effective and there could be changes to how claims would be dealt with. Ask your motor insurer.
 
o  You may require a Green Card to visit EU countries, and not all EU countries accept the same Green Card. Your motor insurer should know the various rules
 
o  Your European Health Insurance Card will no longer be of any effect. Thus you should consider establishing that your insurance cover includes full health insurance, including, if required, cover against the occurrence of existing medical conditions.
 
·      You may need any driver to acquire an International Driving Permit
 
·      You will require to show a separate GB plate even if your vehicle is identified as being registered in the UK by the EU ‘GB’ number plate.
 
·      The Roadworthiness Testing Directive will no longer apply. You may wish to submit your vehicle to an MOT test, even if it is exempt, so that you will be in possession of evidence that the vehicle has passed a roadworthiness test if local law enforcement requests.
 
·      Not all local Low Emission Zones currently exempt historic vehicles. There may be some which exempt only historic vehicles from the EU. You will need to check locally.
This advice must not be regarded as complete or accurate; it is offered only as a useful checklist. If you have specific questions, we will try to help, but in the current uncertainty, we will not necessarily know the answer.

Engineering advice please:

The photo shows the rearmost block to crankcase stud hole, which has been tapped 7/16 BSF and which had a stepped 5/16 stud. 

How to proceed? Acquire another 7/16 - 5/16 stepped stud, which don't seem readily available off the shelf, or plug and tap to 5/16? The 7/16 thread appears good to me. There's not much meat left in the crankcase so I'm not keen on removing any more material.

Colin

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Hi people,

I have a bit of a fuel based dilemma. I recently removed the original fuel tank of my 1935 Ruby and discovered the inside is rotten. By rotten I mean full of rust and the gauze above the sump plug was growing a new life form. The bracket holding the fuel sender was also damaged during the removal with some of the threads stripped.

I'm torn as to whether to try and find somebody to restore the original fuel tank or buy a brand new alloy fuel tank to the same specifications. The new fuel tank would provide many years of rust free motoring but would not have the origanilty. Any help or advice would be gratefully received. 

Cheers,

Darren

   
I have just skimmed a few thou off the top of my best of three blocks that I have, standard bore, good valve seats etc.
Unfortunately the cast iron dust collected on the bore between 2 and 3 cylinders and highlighted what appears to be a crack. The cracks are on adjacent sides of each bore.
Does this mean it’s scrap or is it ok to use, or can it be sleeved and used?


Roger

Would be interested in comments on the following arrangements of fitting twin carbs but at the same time trying to keep a more period apperance than fitting a 4 branch exhaust manifold and some modern SU's. Just a bit of fun really to keep idle hands occupied. I suspect there might be too much heat transference from the exhaust.

 
  Zenith 1.JPG (Size: 343.39 KB / Downloads: 584)            

It's only idle curiosity but does no-one remember a car called 'Jarvie'?
Would have been off the road 40 years or more.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153399861584?...1555.l2649

   

Busily trying to complete the rebuild on my Mk1 Ruby I want to avoid the weight and expense of bumper bars. And I quite like the frontal appearance of the Opal and the Ruby smokers hatch.

Problem is where to mount the number plate so that the starting handle can be used. The bumper and number plate are mounted well forward so the starting handle spins behind them. Mounting the number plate in the obvious position without a bumper means the starting handle hits the plate!

Googling 'Austin Opal' brings up images mainly with no starting handle fitted at all, a couple with a cranked handle, and one with a plate mounted very low. A low plate allows the handle to spin, but it looks too low.

Your thoughts and ideas are welcome please.

One feature that makes our Sevens so remarkable, as well as being great fun and a fine distraction in the workshop on a wet Sunday, is the fact that as well as being an affordable and reliable family car, the factory developed and promoted them for competition work from the very beginning. This famously began with Capt Waite's successful race at Brooklands on Easter Monday 1923, driving the car home to Bromsgrove afterwards. 

 What I wonder if any forum members can discover, is whether the 1924 Hereford Speed Trials, the Seven entries, driven by Dudley Beck and Louis Kings, were works entries. Louis Kings, known as Lou in Wyatt's index, was referred to as Chief Tester and was also a works driver. He had been successful both at Brooklands and hillclimbs with the 20, which became known as the Black Maria. He went on the very unhappy outing to Boulogne, an image in the LAT/Austin Harris archive shows him with the team  before various disasters struck.

Dudley Beck is not immediately recognisable as a works driver. He drove at Angel Bank, just outside Ludlow, earlier in 1924 but his time was beaten by a Bugatti.

There was a Seven entered at Hereford in 1925 but I have yet to find out whether it started on the day, and who the driver was.

I know I should be in the workshop, but a couple of hours with Tim Nicholson's "Sprint", thumbing through the index free WB's "History of Brooklands" and using the computer to search the Motor Sport archives is more academically rewarding, or just more comfortable perhaps. Many thanks in advance to Seven historians.

Advice needed.  Would Magnatec 10/40 oil be suitable for use in the 1932 RP and should the existing
oil be drained first and then start afresh.  How much oil do I need to start afresh. ?

2008 edition. good condition £15