Looking for a replacement ignition light switch for my 1932 RP Box saloon. Can any one assist?

I am new to this forum and apologise if this question has been asked before. I am replacing the oil felts in the rear axle on my Mk 2 Ruby. I bought a pair of lip seals from the old Seven Workshop a while ago but I am finding it impossible to get them to go into the metal cups in the casing. I turned up a drift that fits the bore and is just smaller than the O.D. of the seal but to no avail. The new Seven Workshop are sending me some more as they have not heard of any problems with those they now sell.
I have owned my Seven since 1962 when I bought it from a scrap yard for £5 and then a little later I bought another for spares for £2 some of which I am still using for replacements, although I never got around to fitting the twin carb set up that I bought. I will be downsizing soon, is this the place to advertise my unwanted bits?  Martyn

I'm working on a superchaged Ausin Seven racer 
Have some difficulties understanding a few things, espacially the lubrication of the supercharger.

First of all the supercharger is mounted towards front from engine block. All photos of other I have found superchargers seem to be mounted the other way around, beside the engine block below exhaust manifold. 
What would the orgon of this setup be?

Next there is a number of nozzles, mostly for lubrication I assume, that I need to understand how the should be connected.
See the photos where I have marked the different nozzles with red letters A-G

A: In the rear on engine block
B: Adjustable valve on supercharger
C: Threaded hole beside B
D: Center of crankshaft (assume that this is oil pressure out?)
E: Threaded nozzle with on/off valve on front end plate of supercharger
F: Second nozzle on front end plate of supercharger
G: Nozzle on front of engine block

Would very much appreciate to get some guidance on understanding and how to connect these nozzles / lubrication points. 

















Regards 
Conny Gillström

I am always impressed by the responses to Gordon England questions and comments, so I'll try a historical question. Dudley Beck entered what was described as a "Gordon England Super Sports" in the Hereford Speed Trials in May 1924. It was reported that he had bought it new in March of that year. A  Miss Caswell is recorded as driving a "Brooklands" Austin Seven on the same event. Do any Gordon England historians know to whom cars were sold, or where I could look up such, admittedly somewhat arcane, info?

Putting my 3 synchro box back together having put new balls and springs in the synchro. Seems alright until I put the layshaft back in then it all locks up is this correct or have I done something daft?

My RP saloon has a C35M Lucas dynamo fitted, but retains its cutout box designed for the earlier C35A instrument. As a result, I have no summer charge setting that works.

Being a complete electrical dunce when it comes to these things, I consulted my 1940 (eighth) edition of the 'Motor' Electrical Manual which appears to suggest that there should be a resistor between the D and F terminals on the dynamo which is shorted out by the lighting switch on the dashboard to give winter charging.

1. Am I right in this assumption?
2. If so, does anyone know how many ohms the resistor should be?

Given that the dynamo is currently (no pun intended!) on my bench awaiting its new brushes, I would quite like to put it back and get both settings working.

Also, I assume that, as presently set up, there is no field fuse in the circuit as the earlier instrument had the resistor and field fuse under a cover on top of the dynamo case. Where should the fuse go in the field circuit, please?

I have an SU carb with a vacuum tube on the manifold for a vacuum wiper wiper.  The car runs poorly/rough when the tube to the wiper is attached but OK when the tube is removed and left unblocked.  Finger on the tube and the engine runs poorly.  Any ideas?

I need some advice on a 6v type 421 battery. I need to change mine currently it's a 58 AH I've noticed Alpha batteries is selling a 77 AH, are there any draw backs in fitting the higher AH?

My current battery bubbles on all cells with caps removed, car a meter showing no higher than 8 amps at engine speed equivalent of 30 mph.   I am thinking this is because I have a 58 AH fitted ???

Any advice from a seasoned Austineer would be much appreciated.

Hi all,

Can anyone throw some light on this for me.

I've always seen several different starter handle guides out there for the austin 7.

Which ones fit which year.

I've tipped my box full out, and here are all the different ones.

[attachment=5704]

Could anybody shed any light on this body number?

AK 29, taken from the transmission tunnel...

I'm pretty new to this Austin 7 lark, but the reading-up I have done doesn't show this as a body type anywhere in the records or resources on the subject.

Car it's off is an AH Tourer (apparently) from 1932, that spent a fair length of time in Gibraltar and has only recently come back to the UK. I was expecting it to read AH something....

All input welcome...

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