Having acquired the appropriate ford track rod ends for the Bowden IFS I have, I now have to resolve the problem of the taper they have.  I'm sure I've now got to adapt the steering arms. The previous owner appears to have ground the old ones down to a sort of parallel. 
I noticed on old threads that some members have had the same problem. Perhaps they would not mind sharing how they went about it? DIY? or machine shop?

1. Keep the "Stars" and remove the "Reputation"
 2. Keep the "Reputation" and remove the "Stars"
 3. Keep both the "Stars" and the "Reputation"
 4. Remove both the "Stars" and the "Reputation"

I’ve come to believe that old sports engines don’t die - they just fade away until found again, slowly oxidising at the back of the garage. Last week a damaged (repairable) solid mounting Nippy crankcase on Ebay, another rubber mounted one in an auction (wonder if the gearbox in the photo is a close ratio) and Tony Betts has another slightly damaged one for sale. Makes me wonder if the original engine for my car is still out there, very much doubt it does anybody know the final resting place of M180350?

Spent some time this week making a copper head gasket for the Type 65. The car has run for years with a standard high compression gasket so why bother? The combustion chambers of a Nippy head are a slightly different shape. They’re something in-between a standard low and high compression head and as I had the engine out of the car to sort some other issues it seemed like a good time to have a go at making one.  Spot the difference time!

                   

Hi all, can anyone tell me what the heavier of the two choke springs fixes to to give it tension when you pull the choke out. I have an exploded drawing of the carb and can see how the spring fits to the choke flap assembly but cannot work out what the end goes to.

John Mason

Lovely short film about the hugely talented David Hayward ( a close relation of a well known Forum contributor)...



More information on the models he makes can be found here: https://www.facebook.com/David-Hayward-M...427666269/

If you happen to have a good Reliant 750 S/V Crank stashed away and don't foresee using it give me a shout (private message) please.

Whilst replacing the rear brake shoes on my 1927 Special I noticed loose wheel studs.
I plan to replace, but are unsure on the correct procedure.
Can anyone offer words of advise, how to remove the old studs and refit with new rivets?
Many thanks
Paul

Photos of the alternative crank bearing I use for high revving engines, the triple front bearing set up gives a free spinning crank with no preload
but plenty of thrust capability, the single track front bearing helps keep the timing gears in mesh. At the rear the separate centre sleeve of the
bearing can be pressed on the crank before fitting into the c/case which makes assembly or removal much easier (although I have never had
 to replace one) or use a standard MRJ 1 1/4 preferably with a brass cage.
 Terry.

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