Having an otherwise decent unit on which the advance weights weren't advancing, I've started trying to fettle it to get it back into use. I just wondered how sensitive other people have found the toggles and weights to restoration? 
I've used liquid metal epoxy to fix the spring holders back tight into the weights and all other parts of the two weights seem fine. Likewise, the toggles seem to fit the posts ok, but perhaps the holes aren't quite as parallel-sided as they once were. 

Have people successfully tinkered weights and toggles back to successful continued life, or did you find that new items were the only way in the end? I do have some new springs of various weights to try... but my gut feel is that the toggles might be critical to replace afresh.

Just going through a diagnosis for a no spark after no physical changes other than pushing a bit of wiring up out of the way of my pedals/feet. Went into garage perfect and now on wanting to test tracking improvements, nada.

I've got no functioning standard distributor to swap back over, and just want to find out what could be down the accuspark unit (which was operating very very well) and what down to something else...

1. No spark from end of lead on firing the starter
2. No spark from the HT centre lead from coil, when firing the starter
3. Swapped coil for new one and no difference so I've put it back onto the old one.
4. Gone over the back of SM5 and all wires are in place and done up.
5. I've checked that the across the posts ohmeter reading on the coil is above 1.4 (on both it was about 1.9)


I'm presuming nothing to do with control unit as that is only charging. Not sure whether point 2. can discount the distributor being a problem or not.

Next procedure?!

            Hi, and and here is our RK saloon. That is now up  for sale,here is a bit of history that comes with the car. I have the original log book, stamped 30th May 1930 and the first owners address in Exeter. And two more original log books, also M.O.Ts going back to 1961. Plus a bill of sale dated 1994. Now for a bit about the car, it has 4 nearly new blockley tyres plus a very good spare, all wheels are in good condition, the chassis and body are in very good condition, the RK drives well, when we were down at Beaulieu 750 we did the Saturday run and the car went well. 

Here are a few photo’s hope they help, the price of the RK is £8 850.00.or there about. If you want more photos or information please e-mail me.

We live Swansea South Wales if you would like to come and have a look at the car and go for a little spin you are more than .

I am seeking to contact the owner of a Mk1 Ruby with registration number BKX 722. Known to be owned by a past or present member of the A7OC London, of which I am also a member. In the likely event that the owner isn't on our forum, I would appreciate my enquiry being forwarded, if anyone does happen to know the owner. Many thanks.

Wanted a Lucas window winder for a 1934 Rp

Went for a lovely drive in the sunshine yesterday but ended with oil coming out the top of the steering column.
I have recently rebuilt the box with new seals etc and made it oil tight so thought I would use D140 oil.
Only filled to the level of the filler so thought that was not excessive. The oil seems to wick up the inner column.
Is the type of oil or the level to blame?
Many thanks.
Adrian.

Help please. I need to find out:

a) what is this called ?
and then
b) where can one get a couple of them ?

It's a threaded retaining "nut" for holding down the hood and for holding in the folding windscreen on my 1937 (Opal) Tourer APE.

TIA

       

As per the thread title, has anybody on here had a honeycomb rad re cored? if so, could you share who did the work  -there doesn't seem to be an abundance of people doing this   -any guidance on the whether I'm going to need to sell a kidney to get the rad looking right would be good too.   This isn't actually for one of my  A7s, it's for another 20's car i have, the rad core is about the same size as that on an Austin 20.

Thanks in anticipation for any replies, Stuart.

This is not really an Austin 7 question but here goes. I am making a weather vane on the forge and have been pondering over the N, E, S, W, indicators. It came to me whilst working on my A7, number plate letters!

However having looked around, I can only find manufacturers of complete plates rather than separate letters.

I know they were available because it is how I made my plates 9 years ago, by buying separate plates and aluminium digits to attach with screws. Bad news is I cannot remember where I bought them.

Has anyone had just the letters supplied recently and if so who supplies them?

thanks
Andy

I’m sure I’ve read somewhere that LED bulbs
Can have problems with earth leakage?

I’ve fitted indicator LED bulbs in my tailboard
Of the Cup and run an earth cable to each
bulb holder, as well as the live feeds to each bulb.

Problem is when I feed power to one indicator bulb , the other side
Also comes on. Not much use for indicating!! The earths are commoned
Up at a post that links back via a trailer cable to the negative post of the battery

Perhaps the solution involves diodes? But not found a diagram
on the web yet so may have to go back to supplier for advice.

Anyone had this problem and resolved it?

The bulbs are pretty bright though and the stop/tails ones are working fine and not affected

Regards


Bill G