I have some items for sale after a rebuild. All items will have standard postage and package added . Photos can be sent of items below:

Sump with washer and plug £7.50
Dynamo inspection plate £2.50
Clutch plate with 3 fingers £10.00
Dip switch in working order £10.00
Started motor switch £7.50
Set of wheel nuts , brass £8.00
DJ4A -21 distributor base with good gear £5.00
Two thumb screws plus spare thumb £7.50
 
Please contact via Club or ring 07824810278 . 

I've just purchased a Klaxet in nice shape. Obviously repainted. It works well. However, one of the terminals is quite loose and I can't properly tighten the terminal nut. Taking the trumpet off, reveals that the interior hasn't been touched in many moons. There is a motor obstructing a screw. The only visible way to get the motor out is by a screw at the back which has one of those odd two pin screws. Possibly, I could use circlip pliers to get the motor out, but is this what I want to do? Will I put my eye out with a spring or stare in disbelief as the hole apparatus explodes into the shop?

Erich

Can anyone provide accurate dimensions and pictures of a genuine RM Saloon battery box? Mine and all others I have been able to inspect seem to have been replaced over the years, I need to produce a couple and if I am making new I might as well make them to the original pattern.

Hi, is it possible to service the rear Dampers/Shockers on the RP without removing the assy from the car, ??

Is anybody still supplying these plates made from Aluminium? I have recently ordered set's from two different suppliers only to be disappointed when stainless steel plates arrived.

I know this was covered on the old forum but with no search facility I'll revive it. Can someone tell me what thread is used on the axle end if the radius arm?
Thanks
Alastair

Does anyone know what size the bore of a pinchbolt steering wheel is? I only have one and I don't want to take it off yet. 
Thanks
Alan

I am very new to sevens and looking forward to receiving my 65 EB this morning. I am 6'2" and so the space for my right foot is awkward - I can operate the accelerator OK but moving my foot over onto the brake pedal is impossible without sticking my knee outside the car. The brake pedal sits a lot higher than the clutch pedal and I need to drop the brake pedal down into the footwell to give myself room to manoeuvre. Initially I rejected the car as being undriveable for me, but because I loved its lines and originality I took my shoes off and tried again, convinced myself I could move the pedal and promptly bought it.

I intend winding the nut to the left of the lever in the photo towards the split pin and then adjusting the spring and nut on the right to suit, hoping this will drop the pedal forward within the footwell without altering the tension on the brake cables.

Is this my only option for adjusting the pedal, other than starting to hack things about, which I have no intention of doing? Any advice much appreciated!

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

Can anyone out there answer a query that i have?

I have a couple of spare 6v dynamos that I’m not sure if they work or not.
 
I believe that there is a method to connect the dynamo so that it runs like a motor.
 
But as my 1935 Ruby is a positive earth how would I wire the terminals to the battery to ensure that I don’t reverse the polarity 
 

Dave in grey but dry Cumbria

Bit of guidance please.

I have the back axle out of the RP (seal replacements) and thought I would just check the correct position for the brake levers.

Viewed from the diff should they be at 7 o'clock

   


or 1 o'clock?

   

p.s. Apologies for the poor quality pics.