1938/39 (heavy) back axle assembling.
I am just about to put the diff/shaft assembly back into the axle casings after all new bearings on the axle.  The thrust bearings are fitted to the diff carrier; one went on too easily so was removed and put back with LOCTITE and the second one also had LOCTITE applied but it proved more difficult and took a lot of (fairly gentle) knocking on with hammer and drift (against inner race obviously).

I don't know how good a fit the outers will be in the case.....I didn't try them while they were off
I know that they will need to be able to be moved in their housing to get the correct backlash so assembling with LOCTITE is not an option so hoping they will be tight (the ones removed by unscrewing the adjusters were a good fit  )

Question
What is the best way to fit the casings assuming the thrust bearing outers are going to be a good tight fit in their housing?

Thoughts/musings
1. Put one half at a time on......starting with which half?
2. Don't like the idea of pulling the 2 halves together with the bolts around the flanges incase of distorting.
3. Don't like the idea of putting one end on wood block on ground (with hole for half shaft to sit in) and hammering on other end (via block of wood) as I am aware that shock will be transmitted via outer race to balls against inner race and possibility of thus creating small indentations on the races.
4. Heat around casing by bearing housing then combination of pushing, drawing together with bolts and gentle knocking on end as in 2??
 I have one of those induction heaters with the long element that can be wrapped round the case.  I have not had any experience of heat application so would be working blind as to how HOT to get it before bearing race would go into housing easily and how quickly it would cool down and require further heating to continue the process.
5. I have a floor standing hydraulic press which I could probably find a way of rigging up wood blocks at each end of casings to push the 2 halves together, perhaps with added heat as well?



All comments gratefully accepted.
I am being somewhat fussy about this car rebuild because I am getting on in age and expect this to be the final major work I will ever have to do before having to retire from driving and am expecting around 65 - 70 bhp to be being put through the transmission.

Dennis

Nickel Plating Service

  IMG_1447.JPG (Size: 68.04 KB / Downloads: 181)

Nickel Plating Service

If the nickel plated parts on your car need re-plated,
I can bring them back to looking bright and shiny.

Parts must be brass, or steel based and no larger than 5" square.
So far I have had good success with instrument rims and cases,
Door handles, bonnet catches, badges , control levers and rods,
Side lamp cases and rims, mirror frames etc.

Sorry but I can't do Radiator shells , or windscreen frames.
I don't think I can do headlamp shells, but perhaps rims?

If required I can strip off old chrome, or nickel prior to
polishing and re-Plating in bright nickel. See image above.
Replated parts can be dulled by light abrasion with steel wool or fine scotchbrite.

Please note I cannot do chrome plating or plate Mazak.

If you have parts needing attention please message me by email
with a photo of the parts you want restored. If parts need de-bumped or
Soldered please have that done before you send them.

Each job quoted individually, turnaround time 2-3 weeks.

Bill Gardner ( aka AllAlloyCup )

My little RP has two horns, one which is a 6v lucas horn originally from a Panther 600 m/c and an original Rist horn which has been refurbished. I have a hidden switch that allows me to select either one. However I have become increasingly frustrated by the reluctance of the Rist to actually work when you need it, and even when it does the output isn't what you'd call earth shattering. I have taken it off the car and have replaced it with a brand new Italian made 6v klaxon which I bought from a French classic parts supplier. Rather than having a solenois buzzing against the diaphragm (as in the Rist) it is motor driven. They are available in 6v or 12v versions, in red plastic or chromed. I bought the cheaper 6v version with the red plastic cone, which I have since sprayed black. It fits straight on to the central bonnet support rail where the Rist used to sit and needed little modification to the power supply (spade connectors). The rivet counters would spot it immediately but to the unitiated it looks the part. Once the bonnet is closed you can't tell until you press the horn. It gives out a really loud OOoo-haaah which can scare old ladies from across the street and makes the Rist pretty redundant.

OK it's not exactly Kosher but if you're after that typical old style klaxon sound it's the "genoux des abeilles" or even the "couilles du chien".

Link to the website here - I think they also sell them on Fleabay: https://www.monancienne.com/fr-FR/klaxon...LT-K6V.htm

29€ is just over £25 in proper money (plus postage of course)

Just thought you'd like to know.

How do I reduce the size of my photo,now 5.4mb so I can post it?

Tony, I am aware that you have recently changed your email details but a friend of mine is still having difficulty contacting you, he would like to purchase one of the ALR inlet manifolds. He is located here in NZ so phone calls would need to be coordinated time wise, can you please advise the best way to deal with this.

I am currently overhauling a set of Bowdenex front brakes which are destined for the sprint car project.  The cables were still connected up to the back plates and operating levers and that end of the system is no problem.  The other end of each cable has a threaded rod attached and between this and the cable outer is a piece of mild steel 1" x 1/4" x 4" long  with three holes. This is presumably bolted to the chassis (front cross-member?) to locate the cable outer.  It looks as if there should be a threaded sleeve that screws onto the end of the cable to clamp it against the piece of steel bar, and take up the slack.
I am going to use a Ruby type brake cross-shaft and would like to know how the two Bowden cables are connected to the central lever of the cross-shaft. I assume there must be some form of balance arrangement. 
My project will have a floor attached to the underside of the chassis cross-members and about 4" of ground clearance so I cannot afford to have any parts of the braking system protruding below the floor.

I found an excellent 36 Page article on the above on mg-cars.org.uk. Sorry haven't done link. It covers all coils and distributors up to the 60's approx. Including DK but not DJ. It's entitled " Overseas Correspondence Course, Section 3 Coil Ignition." It shows among many other things the 3 different cam profiles fitted in dizzies up to that time and the reason for the changes of same over the years.
Happy reading!
Dave.

Help!

With a customer's 1934 RP soon to go home, we've just found that one of the window winder springs is broken.  It's from the offside, although I'm pretty certain that they're reversible.

Does anyone have one that they'd part with?

Thanks!

Martin.

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Currently contemplating getting a car lift like the EZ car lift or Quickjack. Has anybody any thoughts or experience with these type of lifts and are they suitable for a 7 (Cambridge)?
Simon

Hi All,

My Ulster Rep has wedge shaped boxes under the seat cushions, angled downward at the rear. The question I have is if this is the sort of thing the original cars had, or if the cushions were merely dropped on the floor to give the lowest seating position.

Feeling Autumn in Seattle

Erich