Are there any Forum members with a drivable A7 near Junction 9 of the M1 please?

Starts: 30-09-2017
Ends: 01-10-2017

Burley Steam & Vintage Vehicle Show, West Hampshire

Burley Park, New Forest, Hampshire, BH24 4DJ (NOT BH25 as the Flyer says)

10AM-5PM each day

Lovely show in the idyllic village of Burley. Too late to exhibit this year, but a great show for a visit. Usually a good number of Sevens on display, along with other vintage and classic cars, Traction Engines, Stationary engines, Tractors, commercial vehicles, crafts, live music etc

I notice on the Australian Austin 7 Specials that many seem to have roll hoops. I'm thinking about trying to put something similar on my car, and wondered if anyone has a specification / drawings / pictures of how this has been done on those specials.
thanks Philip

I have a Hamblin Cadet body for sale;it will need quite a bit of work but I should think feasible for somebody good with glass fibre.It comes with bonnet hatch and rear wings.Open to offer,buyer collects. I am in Glenfield ,Leics. richard.wyatt@hotmail.com or mobile 0770325897. Can email pics to genuine enquirer but best to come and take a look.

Hi all,
I own an austin seven blown with cozette loader. I bought it two years ago.
I have two problems.
my 4-speed Gearbox is very noisy 1-3 speed the 4th is ok. What is the cause, it must be repaired quickly?
the second Problem ist the Ignition timing. What is the correct Timing? I drive a coilconversion and i think
the timing is wrong
The Engine only rotates a maximum of 4200 rpm.

can someone help me with information?

Thanks and Regards from Switzerland

Thomas

(excuse my English)

1938/39 (heavy) back axle assembling.
I am just about to put the diff/shaft assembly back into the axle casings after all new bearings on the axle.  The thrust bearings are fitted to the diff carrier; one went on too easily so was removed and put back with LOCTITE and the second one also had LOCTITE applied but it proved more difficult and took a lot of (fairly gentle) knocking on with hammer and drift (against inner race obviously).

I don't know how good a fit the outers will be in the case.....I didn't try them while they were off
I know that they will need to be able to be moved in their housing to get the correct backlash so assembling with LOCTITE is not an option so hoping they will be tight (the ones removed by unscrewing the adjusters were a good fit  )

Question
What is the best way to fit the casings assuming the thrust bearing outers are going to be a good tight fit in their housing?

Thoughts/musings
1. Put one half at a time on......starting with which half?
2. Don't like the idea of pulling the 2 halves together with the bolts around the flanges incase of distorting.
3. Don't like the idea of putting one end on wood block on ground (with hole for half shaft to sit in) and hammering on other end (via block of wood) as I am aware that shock will be transmitted via outer race to balls against inner race and possibility of thus creating small indentations on the races.
4. Heat around casing by bearing housing then combination of pushing, drawing together with bolts and gentle knocking on end as in 2??
 I have one of those induction heaters with the long element that can be wrapped round the case.  I have not had any experience of heat application so would be working blind as to how HOT to get it before bearing race would go into housing easily and how quickly it would cool down and require further heating to continue the process.
5. I have a floor standing hydraulic press which I could probably find a way of rigging up wood blocks at each end of casings to push the 2 halves together, perhaps with added heat as well?



All comments gratefully accepted.
I am being somewhat fussy about this car rebuild because I am getting on in age and expect this to be the final major work I will ever have to do before having to retire from driving and am expecting around 65 - 70 bhp to be being put through the transmission.

Dennis

Nickel Plating Service

  IMG_1447.JPG (Size: 68.04 KB / Downloads: 181)

Nickel Plating Service

If the nickel plated parts on your car need re-plated,
I can bring them back to looking bright and shiny.

Parts must be brass, or steel based and no larger than 5" square.
So far I have had good success with instrument rims and cases,
Door handles, bonnet catches, badges , control levers and rods,
Side lamp cases and rims, mirror frames etc.

Sorry but I can't do Radiator shells , or windscreen frames.
I don't think I can do headlamp shells, but perhaps rims?

If required I can strip off old chrome, or nickel prior to
polishing and re-Plating in bright nickel. See image above.
Replated parts can be dulled by light abrasion with steel wool or fine scotchbrite.

Please note I cannot do chrome plating or plate Mazak.

If you have parts needing attention please message me by email
with a photo of the parts you want restored. If parts need de-bumped or
Soldered please have that done before you send them.

Each job quoted individually, turnaround time 2-3 weeks.

Bill Gardner ( aka AllAlloyCup )

My little RP has two horns, one which is a 6v lucas horn originally from a Panther 600 m/c and an original Rist horn which has been refurbished. I have a hidden switch that allows me to select either one. However I have become increasingly frustrated by the reluctance of the Rist to actually work when you need it, and even when it does the output isn't what you'd call earth shattering. I have taken it off the car and have replaced it with a brand new Italian made 6v klaxon which I bought from a French classic parts supplier. Rather than having a solenois buzzing against the diaphragm (as in the Rist) it is motor driven. They are available in 6v or 12v versions, in red plastic or chromed. I bought the cheaper 6v version with the red plastic cone, which I have since sprayed black. It fits straight on to the central bonnet support rail where the Rist used to sit and needed little modification to the power supply (spade connectors). The rivet counters would spot it immediately but to the unitiated it looks the part. Once the bonnet is closed you can't tell until you press the horn. It gives out a really loud OOoo-haaah which can scare old ladies from across the street and makes the Rist pretty redundant.

OK it's not exactly Kosher but if you're after that typical old style klaxon sound it's the "genoux des abeilles" or even the "couilles du chien".

Link to the website here - I think they also sell them on Fleabay: https://www.monancienne.com/fr-FR/klaxon...LT-K6V.htm

29€ is just over £25 in proper money (plus postage of course)

Just thought you'd like to know.

How do I reduce the size of my photo,now 5.4mb so I can post it?

Tony, I am aware that you have recently changed your email details but a friend of mine is still having difficulty contacting you, he would like to purchase one of the ALR inlet manifolds. He is located here in NZ so phone calls would need to be coordinated time wise, can you please advise the best way to deal with this.